ok so i have a fully worked gsr head.. n every block i put it on it destroys it
port n polish titanium valves n springs angle job stage 3 cams
the works.. 440cc fuel injectors with a regulator and pump forgot the name...

i want a high compression block that can handle my head ... what set up and compression ratio should i use?? please help i got a 1200$ limit

HELP!!!!!

 

Where to even start with this one...

angle job? stage 3 cams? "the works" ?

It just sounds like you dont know what youre talking about, maybe thats why you keep destroying blocks. When you find out what cams you have, and can tell us what exactly happened when your last block blew, maybe we can help you so it doesnt happen again.

 

Lol.

What do you mean destroy the block?

 

lol so i see my cousin is useless i had him start the thread for me..

ok i bought the car from a friend for cheap and when he had it it was on a worked block with je 12:5:1 pistons.. im not sure what rods or bore or any of that ill have to ask...he managed to lock up his bottom end sum how so he swappped the head onto a stock gsr block ..right after the swap i bought it from him for cheap with intentions of workin on the block and tuning it asap...the 2nd day i had it i blew a bearing.... i was obviously pissed... i was thinkin since its a b18 going with a itr internal setup but i wasnt too sure.. the car is going to be tuned by yosolo.. i just want to have a fast street car ... what do u think i should do?

 

You still haven't answered the previous questions. What cams do you have, what was valve to piston clearance, was it tuned? Lots of info. you left out.

 

i didnt build the motor so i cant answer the questions ure askin... idc about how it blew the last two obviously something was wrong but thats not vwhat im asking...

what i want to know is what i can do to build a decently fast motor n what set up to use
my head consist of all skunk2 components stage 3 cams titanium valves retainers springs
and the head is ported and polished .. its basicall brand new less than 500 miles on it

i just want a bottom end that can handle the head.. obviously im not a mechanic... but i still want it done right n not make the mistakes my friend made

 

87 octane+10k+novice driver=failure

 

look dude if ur not trying to help then stfu

i know im not a honda whiz... im sry if i dont meet your standards but ur not even trying to further my knowledge n help me learn more

theres no need to be a *****...

but whatever.. i was thinking of runnin type r pistons and connecting rods with the gsr crack shaft

what do u guys think?

a friend referred a mechine shop where he got his block blue printed n basically built at n he runs 450whp with a dart block so im sure the place is good


oh n btw i only run 93 octane :D

 

Are those pro series or tuner series cams? Do you have adjustable cam gears? Have then been adjusted? Has the head been milled? Were the valves adjusted?
Before you go and spend money on another block take a look at the head first. Perhaps it has some debris or metal shavings in it and that is what is causing the blocks to spin bearings. Just a thought.

 

[QUOTE=antikswagga;38065374]idc about how it blew the last two obviously something was wrong but thats not vwhat im asking...QUOTE]

That is need to know info, not trying to be an a$$. You say one block "locked up" you mean seized? Just seizing seems like oil starvation. The other "blew a bearing". Was it knocking before hand? What bearing? Was the oil full? Did the oil pumps fail in both blocks?

All these things and alot more can tell you alot about what your weak points are. Sounds like you gotta built head that has a decent amount of money into it. (i am poor so it sounds like alot to me ) You would think your gonna need more then a stock block IMO. Stage 3 cams make power at HIGH rpm if they are S2. If you are gonna spin 10,000rpm be prepared to spend more then $1200.

Anyway, Sine you said your not a mechanic. Get a new block. B18c1 crank, your choice of aftermarket rods and high comp pistons. I like ACL, or OEM honda bearings. Take said parts to a GOOD machinist. Tell him what kinda RPM your gonna turn and he will machine it accordingly. However, getting a GOOD shop to do GOOD work cost some $$$.

Good luck.

 

pro series...
adjustable cams
i will get the cams readjusted when its tuned imidiately after i leave the shop, i think right now theyre at 0 but im not too sure
my friend owns a shop n he's charging me so far 350 forthe rebuild...
im sure the tuning is gonna cost alot also
im not sure of the condition of the crank shaft but if its good ill prolly keep it if its good and throw type r bearings rods and pistons on it and call it a day
i want to get it exactly how i want it now so i can get it tuned by yosolo ... they arent cheap n id hate to waste money goin back over and over again....

do u think ill break the 200whp barrior with this setup?
b18c1 head
440cc rc fuel injectors
aem fuel rail
blox intake manifold
s2 pro series stage3 cams
s2 adjustable cam gears
s2 springs retainers & valves w/ a angle job
b18c1 block with stock crank shaft
b18c1/5 eagle rods n bearings ( are they all the same thing? like does the brand matter?)
oem b18c5 pistons
hondata s300 in either a p28 or p72 i have both just not sure yet which to put it in

maybe even a b16 tranny i heard they run beautifully with a gsr longblock

like i said b4 im def not a poser trying to act like i know it all.. n i hear u H-T guys are some of the best n most experienced... i appreciate all the advice

 

If that is what your build will consist of, and you don't plan on upping the CR above what stock ITR pistons will supply, I suggest you sell those cams and go with Pro 1's or maybe Pro2's. I'm no pro builder/tuner, but I think your build is a bit overcammed. What throttle body, header and exhaust are you running? Also, who ported the head?
200 whp can be done with less mods, as seen in some recent dyno threads, it depends on where you're getting it tuned and what type of dyno they have.

 

the cams came with the car.. n honestly i agree i do think theyre a bit OD but its all i have for the time being n dont really have time to sell them and shop around for others..
i figure if i set a low rev limit of like 8500 when its tuned i shouldnt have a problem n maybe like a 140 mph cut off also... i should have a pretty quick street car =D btw dude thankz

 

Setting the rev limit that low will defeat the purpose of having those pro 3 series cams, they are gonna want to make power to 10k rpm. I would try to find time to find some stage 2 tuner series or pro 1's if I were you.