Great Daily Driven Pistons and Rods?
I have a jdm b18c gsr and I recently fried my rings. I was making 300whp and 190wtq on the stock motor with ITR cams. since im gonna have to tear down the motor I was wondering your guys input on a nice set of pistons and rods. since my motor will be built after this I will be shooting for 400whp realible because its my daily driver. Im leaning towards golden eagle rods. because ive only heard good things. my main question is pistons. Ive heard some pistons get valve slap while warming up? should I lower my compression ratio or keep it the same? im not going to sleeve the block either
Im gonna also get ARP head studs and Probably Rod bolts. any input would help
Engine setup is Garret 60-1 Turbo, big intercooler 3inch core, Walbro 255, 560cc injectors, Crome Tuned, ITR cams and Skunk2 manifold.
Im gonna also get ARP head studs and Probably Rod bolts. any input would help
Engine setup is Garret 60-1 Turbo, big intercooler 3inch core, Walbro 255, 560cc injectors, Crome Tuned, ITR cams and Skunk2 manifold.
Last edited by Unknown Racing; Feb 20, 2009 at 12:33 PM.
I would personally go with Manley Turbo tuff rods & CP 9:1 or 9.8:1 compression pistons.
Make sure when you tear all this down you freshen up the block as well. Do a final bore & hone to clear out any imperfections in your block and make sure they hone the motor so you can properly break in the piston rings. The proper way to size the pistons as well is to let the machine shop do the final bore and hone so you can match the size of the piston to the block. They may have to take off a bit of material to straighten out he block so I would wait and order the pistons after the machine work has been done. Make sure while the block is out that you get all new bearings and check out all the components internally in the motor, normally its also a good idea to go ahead and change out the oil pump while you have the motor dis assembled.
Make sure when you tear all this down you freshen up the block as well. Do a final bore & hone to clear out any imperfections in your block and make sure they hone the motor so you can properly break in the piston rings. The proper way to size the pistons as well is to let the machine shop do the final bore and hone so you can match the size of the piston to the block. They may have to take off a bit of material to straighten out he block so I would wait and order the pistons after the machine work has been done. Make sure while the block is out that you get all new bearings and check out all the components internally in the motor, normally its also a good idea to go ahead and change out the oil pump while you have the motor dis assembled.
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ya eagle rods will work fine and pretty much any brand piston.. wiseco, srp, ross, je, aries....exc.... i had aries on my dd and they were fine till a injector seized and it melted a hole the size of a quarter in the piston.. lol
560's will get you almost to 400whp with CRAZY fuel pressure and a stellar engine/turbo combo. Otherwise 650cc is the minumum, >750cc would be recomended.
Properly clearanced Eagles/acls will work fine, as well as any from Wiseco/CP/Arias/JE. SRPs are the only iffy piston due to the way the material expands. I have no issues with daily driving my WIseco/eagle setup, running .0038" piston clearance. FYI the coated Wisecos 'gain' another .0003" or so after break-in. The embeded part of the coating remains, and still acts as lube.
Properly clearanced Eagles/acls will work fine, as well as any from Wiseco/CP/Arias/JE. SRPs are the only iffy piston due to the way the material expands. I have no issues with daily driving my WIseco/eagle setup, running .0038" piston clearance. FYI the coated Wisecos 'gain' another .0003" or so after break-in. The embeded part of the coating remains, and still acts as lube.
good to know guys thanks for all the input and yes I have a brand new oil pump and water pump and all that other good stuff ready to go.
always go with a .20 overbore
and always have the pistons there so the machine shop can number the pistons to each cylinder as every piston will not be the exact same width (although cp have always been as close as it gets for me)
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