Hey Good Peoples

I've had this car in stock condition for 15 years, and it's time to improve it. I've upgraded the suspension and wheels. Now I want some power. I've read a bunch about turbo vs supercharger vs a modified but naturally aspirated motor, and I want some advice. I'm looking to put in about $4-5k total, and I'm wondering if I should look into a b16a or other b-series swap before modifying or if I could get more performance for the money out of my stock D16Z6 motor with bigger modification. I'm also concerned about the internal components and the transmission and whether they can hold up to 250 hp. And I'm a novice but a quick learner. Thanks for your advice.

Adam

 

First off. Congrats on holding onto the car for 15 years. (I assume your the original owner) For 4-5K you can do a complete B18C5 swap (type R) or a built B18C1 swap (gsr swap). You can also do a turbo on the D16Z6 you have that will be very reliable and cheap to fix if you break it. There is a sticky at the top of the forum with very good info in it. Read up and decide for yourself.

 

for 4-5k you could make a BEAST of a z6 build, but if you don't want to tear into the internals then look into a B18 swap and boost that, because a stock z6 gets sketchy above 230hp. personally wouldn't push one past 210. and like dave said, check the stickys and start reading, and have fun =D

 

Spent the past few days reading about swaps and turbos. Looks like a nonstolen USDM type R motor is the best stock bottom end. But I can't afford a complete good quality swap. A GSR motor isn't a bad alternative, although not nearly as badass. I think I might want to build and boost my D motor. This thing has 200k miles and maintenance on the motor probably needs to be addressed. Fotunately I'm the original owner and I know for certain that the car has always been well maintained and never abused. It still has high and consistent compression across the 4 cylinders. The plugs, wires, timing belt, water pump, vtec gaskets, and head gaskets have been replaced recently. I'm more concerned about the internals--berings, seals, camshaft, rods, valves, etc. Should I replace all of these? Are there high performance alternatives? Other parts I should look at replacing/upgrading? Should I consider widening the cylinder bore? Any advice to point in the right direction is much appreciated.

 

Put a ycp dished ac8a grade semiforged pistons together with some h beams custom or not and a devcon style 500 whp reliable block for under $800 just to build the block and refresh the head if you do the work. That should free up enough for traction bars, bold ons if you want some bling, and a half way decent turbo set up. Don't take any more off the precious sleeves than you have to.

Take about 6 months researching the forced induction forums to get a good idea of what you will need. You'll need valve springs if you run a stg 2 cam of better as a general rule. D16's don't keep pulling much over 8500-9000 even with head port work usually.

 

The only difference between the B18C1 and C5 bottom ends are the pistons, and OEM pistons aren't all that expensive in the grand scheme of things. I vote for a GSR with some higher compression pistons (11-11.5:1), or use a 2 layer head gasket and mill the head/block a total of .035in and you got 11.1:1 CR. (just played with the ZeakAuto works tool to find that http://www.zealautowerks.com/bseries.html) Maybe put the springs and such in to put in aftermarket cams if you can't afford cams yet.

 

i would say do a B20 vtec buld with a gsr tranny which you could find for not too bad of a price i suggest lsd with the tranny, a B20 block for about $700 and get a endine head you might wana look that up(the endine head flows very very well) also get some good breaks and suspension.

-gsr tranny 1500
-B20 block 700
-endine head 800
-suspension(coilovers) 800
-complete brake upgrade 500
total=4,300 add some bolt ons like an exhaust, race header, and intake
over all this would be better and cheaper then a type R(in my opinion idk what do you guys think)

 

Well it's like this, you can set it up with the semi built D to run 10's at that price or 12's on the stock B block. I know the all motor 13.5:1 ls vtec set up to run 12's with a 150 shot in a crx sounds awesome though but you should still be able to match it's times with the D when sticking with stock sleeves and axles in both motors but with boost on the D. The 9:1 530 whp ls vtec in an eg hatch with full interrior couldn't break 11's at that level and only got three passes out of the stock axles 21 lbs of boost with an egay 54 trim.