Question about cleaning bay!
So this question isnt about how to clean the bay, cause I searched and read all about it and I get the gyst of it. My 94 sedan has over 200,000 miles on it and I have been told by several people that when they cleaned their bay after a long period of filth and grime that lots of small leaks popped up that were clogged by the grime that was on the engine. Anyone ever have this problem? I mean, I havent cleaned my bay since I bought the car and it is filthy, so does anyone think if I do clean it, it will wash all the grime out and unclog some potential leaks throughout? Experiences with high mileage cars? Thanks!
Oh, by the way, it doesnt look like it has any leaks right now and runs fine.
Oh, by the way, it doesnt look like it has any leaks right now and runs fine.
50/50 mix of simple green outdoors and water
have the motor slightly warmed (but not full operating temp) apply the solution and close the hood, let it cajole around and then spray off with water, don't aim it at the battery, dizzy or fuse box and you should be ok.
tough areas you'll want to get a brush to loosen up gunk
have the motor slightly warmed (but not full operating temp) apply the solution and close the hood, let it cajole around and then spray off with water, don't aim it at the battery, dizzy or fuse box and you should be ok.
tough areas you'll want to get a brush to loosen up gunk
Well that didnt help me at all. I dont mean to be rude, but if you read my question at all you would see that I didnt ask how to clean it. I know how to clean the engine bay. Im looking for potential problems with leaks popping up. Anyone else?
So this question isnt about how to clean the bay, cause I searched and read all about it and I get the gyst of it. My 94 sedan has over 200,000 miles on it and I have been told by several people that when they cleaned their bay after a long period of filth and grime that lots of small leaks popped up that were clogged by the grime that was on the engine. Anyone ever have this problem? I mean, I havent cleaned my bay since I bought the car and it is filthy, so does anyone think if I do clean it, it will wash all the grime out and unclog some potential leaks throughout? Experiences with high mileage cars? Thanks!
Oh, by the way, it doesnt look like it has any leaks right now and runs fine.
Oh, by the way, it doesnt look like it has any leaks right now and runs fine.
I enjoy a clean engine bay and often will clean them b4 I do any work. As you said, makes it easier to spot developing leaks (nothing to be afraid of) and helps when the time comes for reassembly.
P
Umm, cleaning the engine doesn't "unclog" leaks. It simply makes the source visible. If there is oily gunk all over the engine to begin with, then it is leaking already.
I cleaned mine by hand. I didn't want to spray the engine and/or bay due to having water pool in a place and short something out, or make a sensor go bad. It might take longer to do it by hand, but seems like it would be piece of mind for someone.
I used Simple Green with about a 8:1 or 10:1 diluted mix. Applied to a cloth and wiped. Then I went back over the part/place I cleaned with a separate water-damp cloth. Lastly, I went back and wiped everything again with a dry cloth. Applied polish and Mothers "Back to Black" where applicable - plastic and some hoses.
I put about 8 hours into it. Was worth it for me.
I used Simple Green with about a 8:1 or 10:1 diluted mix. Applied to a cloth and wiped. Then I went back over the part/place I cleaned with a separate water-damp cloth. Lastly, I went back and wiped everything again with a dry cloth. Applied polish and Mothers "Back to Black" where applicable - plastic and some hoses.
I put about 8 hours into it. Was worth it for me.
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How is cleaning it going to cause leaks?
If a leak exists, it exists, as mentioned you'll be able to see the source better but it's not going to create leaks. You're probably confusing SeaFoam which can clear out gunk sealing up holes in the gaskets which can cause leaks.
Cleaning the bay is not going to do that.
Ok, thank you all. I didnt know if it would or not which is why I asked you all. I have had two people tell me that it could make things worse by cleaning it, which sounded a bit odd to me, but i didnt think it would hurt to ask. Thanks again. Im off to clean it!
Yeah cleaning it certainly won't hurt leaks. Sorry I misread your first post.
Seafoam however DOES have that risk, cleaning the carbon deposits that could potentially be clogging up those gaskets. Just using a mild cleaning agent on the outside of the motor won't harm anything.
Seafoam however DOES have that risk, cleaning the carbon deposits that could potentially be clogging up those gaskets. Just using a mild cleaning agent on the outside of the motor won't harm anything.
It's also to your advantage that the engine be fully warmed up. It may require being a little more careful where you put your hand, but it will really help dry the engine off.
You want this drying effect if you suspect marginal Spark Plug Wires. It can be a 'B**tch getting the engine started with a case of those...
P
You want this drying effect if you suspect marginal Spark Plug Wires. It can be a 'B**tch getting the engine started with a case of those...

P
If you use the outdoors Simple Green mix it's quite potent, in fact in full strength might even take off paint! The diluted solution is pretty common to be used.
I've used that, Engine Brite, as well as a few others. They all will eventually come out the same.
Just take a note of their website:
AUTO DETAILING
Exterior Car Washing: Use Simple Green Car Wash, following application instructions on label. Additionally, original Simple Green has been used to wash automobiles (motorcycles, RVs, ATVs, etc.) for more than 30 years. A 1:32 dilution is just right (4 oz. Simple Green to 1 gallon water.)
Best results come from washing when auto surface is cool, doing the job in the shade or on overcast days. Work in sections, cleaning and then rinsing.
Car Wax Removal: Mix a solution of 1-part original Simple Green and 5-parts hot water. Let the solution remain on the surface for 5-10 minutes, but not dry. If there are multiple coats of wax — especially differing varieties of wax from coat to coat, several applications of this hot cleaning solution may be necessary.
Painted Engine Parts and Chromed Parts: Concentrated Simple Green solutions are able to remove oxidized paint (which is a good thing) and/or poorly applied paint jobs, (which is a bad thing.) Be particularly careful of "chromed" parts that are poorly painted, not plated. For quality chrome, and other metal or painted engine parts, use Simple Green Pro Series MAX METAL for a light cleaning and a high shine. MAX METAL also protects against smears, smudges, and dust collection.
Engine Washing: Cover distributor cap and plugs with aluminum foil to protect. Spray down the cool engine with a 1:1 solution of Simple Green Pro Series MAX & water. Let solution sit for about 5 to 10 minutes and then rinse with cool water. Some cracks and crevices, or extremely dirty engines might require some light scrubbing with a non-metallic bristle brush before rinsing. If you clean a metal surface, particularly aluminum, and it is not repainted right away, be sure to apply a light machine oil to protect from oxidation and displace moisture.
Plastic Instrument Panels and Convertible Tops: Use Pro Series Simple Green GLASS — it’s safe on all plastics and on tinted windows, too. We do not recommend original concentrated Simple Green for use on instrument panels or plastic windows, such as convertible-top windows. Certain types of plastic can become cloudy upon exposure to regular Simple Green and this condition may not be reversible.
Runoff: Cleaning on the street, in the driveway or garage: Even though Simple Green is non-toxic and biodegradable, it is still a violation of the Federal Clean Air & Water Act to allow the runoff to enter a storm drain or open body of water (lakes, streams, rivers, oceans, etc.) However, because it is non-toxic and biodegradable, you can clean vehicles over dirt, gravel, or grassy areas and then just water it in when done. Simple Green will biodegrade in the soil and will break down petroleum so that the natural bacteria in the ground can consume it.
Exterior Car Washing: Use Simple Green Car Wash, following application instructions on label. Additionally, original Simple Green has been used to wash automobiles (motorcycles, RVs, ATVs, etc.) for more than 30 years. A 1:32 dilution is just right (4 oz. Simple Green to 1 gallon water.)
Best results come from washing when auto surface is cool, doing the job in the shade or on overcast days. Work in sections, cleaning and then rinsing.
Car Wax Removal: Mix a solution of 1-part original Simple Green and 5-parts hot water. Let the solution remain on the surface for 5-10 minutes, but not dry. If there are multiple coats of wax — especially differing varieties of wax from coat to coat, several applications of this hot cleaning solution may be necessary.
Painted Engine Parts and Chromed Parts: Concentrated Simple Green solutions are able to remove oxidized paint (which is a good thing) and/or poorly applied paint jobs, (which is a bad thing.) Be particularly careful of "chromed" parts that are poorly painted, not plated. For quality chrome, and other metal or painted engine parts, use Simple Green Pro Series MAX METAL for a light cleaning and a high shine. MAX METAL also protects against smears, smudges, and dust collection.
Engine Washing: Cover distributor cap and plugs with aluminum foil to protect. Spray down the cool engine with a 1:1 solution of Simple Green Pro Series MAX & water. Let solution sit for about 5 to 10 minutes and then rinse with cool water. Some cracks and crevices, or extremely dirty engines might require some light scrubbing with a non-metallic bristle brush before rinsing. If you clean a metal surface, particularly aluminum, and it is not repainted right away, be sure to apply a light machine oil to protect from oxidation and displace moisture.
Plastic Instrument Panels and Convertible Tops: Use Pro Series Simple Green GLASS — it’s safe on all plastics and on tinted windows, too. We do not recommend original concentrated Simple Green for use on instrument panels or plastic windows, such as convertible-top windows. Certain types of plastic can become cloudy upon exposure to regular Simple Green and this condition may not be reversible.
Runoff: Cleaning on the street, in the driveway or garage: Even though Simple Green is non-toxic and biodegradable, it is still a violation of the Federal Clean Air & Water Act to allow the runoff to enter a storm drain or open body of water (lakes, streams, rivers, oceans, etc.) However, because it is non-toxic and biodegradable, you can clean vehicles over dirt, gravel, or grassy areas and then just water it in when done. Simple Green will biodegrade in the soil and will break down petroleum so that the natural bacteria in the ground can consume it.
Note: Be sure not to leave any sudsy puddles where animals or birds might drink.
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JSwiftNyc1
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Dec 7, 2003 08:01 PM





