ok i have aem adjustable cam gears on my car and wanted to know how to adjust them just so i know that it is set right.

heres a list of my mods done to my car..

engine-
obd0 ls tb
94 d16z6 intake manifold
jdm d15b block
pm5 pistons
10mm spark plug wires
crane 251-0016 d16a6 camshaft
aem 3 bolt cam gear
intake
header
header back exhaust no cat or resonator [came this way] =(
aftermarket fuel rail
chipped ecu redline 9300 [6000k built in 2step]

thats all i know is done to it. car came this way when i got it. so im just makign sure everything is correct. idle messes up when car is warm (goes up and down liek it wants to cut off) found a leaking fuel injector. gonna replace the o-rings and see if that fixes the problem if not then im gonna replace the injectors. but want to check the timing to make sure its correct...

 

dont ask why the block is lime green because idk why anyone would of painted it that color. i hate it but idk how to remove the paint and not mess anythign up

 

um bleed your coolant, crack open this bleeder with the cap off the radiator and pour fluid in there till it comes out the bleed in a solid stream, that or your iacv. but try the coolant first.

 

and to ajust your adjustable cam gear loosin the bolts on the cam gear and turn your crank pulley as needed.(with the car off of course)

 

k but how am i suppossed to tell if its set right?

and idk if my coolant lines are making it idle liek that .. but i might as well bleed it and stuff just to make sure .. all vacuum lines are good. only thing it might be is..
1. iacv needs cleaned or replaced
2. leaking fuel injector

only code car is throing is code 10. IAT which wouldnt affect idle

but this si what i read a bad/leaking fuel injector will do

(1 Hard Starting
(2 Poor fuel economy
(3 Rough Idle
(4 Car runs fine when cold and terrible when warm
(5 Car will start just fine when cold and not when warm
(6 Getting a fuel smell inside the car
(7 Loss of power in acceleration
(8 Fuel leaking from injector seals or injector


thats why i think its the fuel injector ... but this thread s about how to make sure my timming is correct

 

I had a leaking injector also same problems as you. I then put in a different one and problem fixed. Also like said if your coolants low or not bleed correctly try that. it will cause idle surge, i had this also but was caused by a rad. clamp rusting in two pieces and poked a small hole in the line replaced the clamp and fixed. hope this helps

and timing use a timing gun/light

 

and what are the cam spec on that cam? if there really crazy it will cause loping idle.....

 

cam specs are this....

i know it will cause looping idle .. but it shouldnt make it jump up and down an almost cut off..


crane 251-0016 (stage 3 or 4 not sure)
advertise duration: INT=242 / EXH=244
duration @ .050: INT=216 / EXH=218
lobe seperation: 110
gross lift: 425/416


dont really know what any of that means but thats the specs i found online

 

oh and where you said to crack open the bleeder do you do that with the engine off or on. just wondering cause some people are telling me not to even change it. what would you do .. i think changing it wouldnt hurt at all but they say it doesnt need it and its a waste of time

 

well between that and the loping idle that might be it cause its will lope and try and die then the idle surge is trying to rev it up....

 

so your saying its either my coolant lines have air in them or its the leaking injector? cause those are my two main thoughts. cause im pretty sure the iacv is still good. and i think all the necesarry vacuum lines are plugged in.

what do you think about those cams. are they to much for the car to handle or whats your opinion

 

........................ Int/Exh...Int/Exh...Lobe Separation...Gross Lift
Stock D16A6.......222/224..194/196........110................333/362

these are the cam specs for stock. does the car pull all the way to 9300rpms? if not i got a ecu for that car(pm6) that revs till only 8k that would be a little more safe.....

 

nice you have more than one gear on your sohc, does that make more hp?

 

man shut up idk alot about cams or cam gear .. so yeah .. i was asking a question not looking for a smart answer ...




but yeah my car pulls all the way to 9300. i only did it once to see if it really did. and it pulls hard all the way ... its th fastest sohc that i have road in....

 

I would suggest you tal to your dyno tuner that tuned and chipped your ecu. Let them make the decisions on if cam timing would be benificial to your setup.

My thoughts, you dont need an adjustable cam gear. With the list of mods you have, I dont see any benifits of adjusting cam timing.

 

Anytime you have an aftermarket camshaft it will be beneficial to degree the cam. Not all cams are ground on a perfect centerline and may need adjustment. Dyno cam adjustment is just a joke for people who don't know how to build motors. Anyone who actually knows what is going on will use a degree wheel and dial indicators to correctly degree the camshaft to the proper specs on the cam card. If there are two cams then you essentially have to do it twice, plain and simple. Given there may not be major horsepower extracted from degreeing, but that is not the point. Typically it also has the largest margin of safety for Valve to Valve and Piston to Valve clearances given it is not an extreme motor. Also search it is your friend, here are the links...
Idle Problems…
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/how-fix-your-idleing-woes-fitv-iacv-2153910/
How to degree a cam/cams
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/degreeing-camshafts-quick-shakedown-2003538/

 

what vacuum lines need to be plugged in on a d16z6 intake manifold. cause i wanna make sure i have them all connected

 

are yo running valve springs of any kind? if there stock please don't rev past like 7500 for the engines sake......

 

not usre. but im not gonna be reving past that. im not to big on racing or anythign like that. so idc how far the rev limit is ... but today i drove the car maybe 3miles and it got fully warm and it didnt do the idle surge .. and it wasnt as cold today as it has been .. so would it maybe be doing the surge becuase of how cold it is out .... and also my brake light wont go off no for some reason .. how would i go about checkign that?

 

Go take your **** to get dyno tuned before you wreck something.

 

im not gonna wreck anythign i havent even titled or tagged the car yet. i should have that done by tues at the latest. i have only driven it up and down the road around my house to see how the idle problem was and it only does it when the car warms up and it didnt do it today for soem reason and it wasnt that cold out the other days it was really cold. i think the cam is set right i was just asking so i can make sure.

 

i agree with gibsanez, please get your car tuned before you blow it up...because if you don't know how to adjust cam gears, i wouldn't have faith in you to rebuild/swap an engine...and also check your codes too...make sure you dont have any active codes.....if you do you can start from there. dont halfway explain what your car is doing, and expect a straight forward answer...if you cant do simple diagnosis than a i dont think a honda is the car for you...

 

i havent half way explained anything .. i have explained everythign to the best i could. i didnt do anythign to the motor i got it like this fro ma guy that built the motor in the car. so i was just trying to check everything that might make it idle weird ... if you read the thread you would see the only code i have is #10 (IAT) which wouldnt affect the idle at all ... i just drained and refilled my coolant .. so i know i dont have any air in the lines now. and everything else should be good ..

so my main concerns are loose or not connected vacuum lines, timmign off, or maybe the iacv. i halfway cleaned it and it didnt look clooged or anything so i dont think it is that. idk how many vaccum lines i amsuppossed to have connected though so i would really like to know that. i know of like 3-4. does that sound about right?

 

i dont think you can really get much out of a soch with an adj. cam gear. the idea is to have a lower lsa. the soch cam is a set lsa most you can do really is set it a tooth of and be getting the timing changed

 

That's stupid, and not true.