Which do you guys prefer? Sch 10 has a wall thickness of .109" and Sch 40 has a wall thickness of .145"
Technically Sch 10 should flow more because the thicker wall takes away from the inside diameter of the pipe, but I doubt .072" makes much of a difference.
I ordered sch 10 to build a top mount manifold for my s2000, I just don't know if there is going to be much room to add a brace for the turbo to hang from. It's not too big (heavy) it's only a 60-1, should I be worried about the pipe not being able to support the weight?

 

wow man, 100+ views and no replies? people have the 2 min to read this thread but dont have 30 sec to write a response?

well, usually you wont have a problem with either one when it comes to strength.. theyre both tough as nails and some people use 40 just to have that extra bit, but it does weigh a little more.. i like sch10 personally and have never heard of a sch10 mani cracking/breaking/etc.

either choice will be fine.

 

I like sch10 for the fact that it will be a tad lighter, perhaps less heatsoaking (but prolly not noticable) and sch10 is plenty overkill if prepped/fitted/welded properly.

I have made both and there isnt much difference, really... but if sch10 can potentally save a bit of weight and not have any adverse effects, why not?

 

Has anybody actually seen a sch 10 mani crack?

 

yes i have, if the flanges are not flat it will put a ton of stress on the collector or on certain runners. and can crack.

 

the manifold on my racecar is sch 10. the car has been running since 07, but not nearly as much as a street car.

 

i do most of my manifolds in schedule 10. i've done one in 16g tube. i just got a RFQ package though to make a manifold out of schedule 40 stainless with a 1.25" thick 1018flange. it is just a log manifold going into a divided t4, but once the runners are made, then a box gets welded around it so it can be water cooled. i'm really hoping to get this project since it would be probably about 20 manifolds every year.

 

Its not the pipe that cracks though, it would be the welds. So sch40 wouldn't help any. We use sch10, never used sch40.

 

do you brace all your manifolds?

 

i made my log for my d out of sch40, that **** is thick and if you need to do any sort of cuttin on it, make sure youve got somethin bigger than a dremel.

pretty much indestructible too.

 

How about cracks between weld elbows?

If you think about it, if the majority of the cracks happen close to the flanges, then using sch 40 has no significance over sch 10.

 

Why would someone water cool a turbo manifold?

 

The manifold, no, the turbo, yes if the turbo is large I brace it and also backpurge.

 

i'm not 100% sure why, but i was told by the customer the complete engine assembly has to be fire proof... perhaps this is part of the reason?

i'm really hoping to get this project, i just quoted on it today. we'll have to wait and see what response comes back.

 

Are you guys talking SCH 40 pipe? If that is the case, pipe is always measured inside diameter regardless of thickness, and tube is measured outside diameter.

If you are going to use SCH 40 just take the front end off your car and use your manifold as your bumper. That is complete overkill.

 

It's probably going in a boat

 

My vote would be a space ship or maybe even a ufo.

 

SCH 10/40 butt weld elbows. There is a difference between inside diameters.

 

That's what I meant. Sorry. I know the proper way to do it is to hang the turbo with a heim(sp?) joint so it will alow for thermal expansion/movement of the manifold.
But In my application, I was planning on building a top mount manifold for my s2k, then that doesn't leave much room for a brace above the turbo (hood clearance). I guess I could do a bottom mount, I really haven't decided yet.
Thanks to Weir, I have the flanges and elbows I need to do either. :D

 

contact pang at p-fab for some ideas. he does a lot of s2k manifolds.
http://pfabrications.com/