piston blown?
ok, heres the deal. this is the second head gasket i have changed in my 90 integra. i get everything off and on piston 1 there is two pieces bent back at the front of the piston. there pretty large chunks. so how can you take just that piston out, or do you have to pull the whole block.???? thanks
Nope. You can't pull through the oil pan without pulling the crank. However, you can unbolt the rod cap, and pull the piston out the top, after the head is pulled.
Is it possible that you mis-timed the cams and had piston to valve contact? That MIGHT cause a divot or 2 in the piston crown, but it would also mean bent valves.
Is it possible that you mis-timed the cams and had piston to valve contact? That MIGHT cause a divot or 2 in the piston crown, but it would also mean bent valves.
yea i can see the ring on both sides of the piston. the tops of the crown were black wet oily looking. probly caused by my bad headgasket. still havent got a pic yet. how do i get the piston out then. do i still have to pull the oil pan to push it through the top of the block. or should i just buy an ls 95 motor for 450 complete with 100XXX miles.
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I dunno...I'm kinda partial to doing a rebuild, myself. But that's just the kinda guy I am. Many will tell you to just get a new motor. My friend-a Honda master tech- says 'get a motor and drop it in.' But he's looking at it from the standpoint of a flat-rate technician, rather than a diy-type owner. I think rebuilding/re-ringing will teach you a lot more about how things work, and that's a good thing by me. Just my $.02. Plus, there's a lot of satisfaction in it.
And I'm not sure a replacement motor with 100xxx miles is such a good deal. It could need rings, too, and maybe more. At least if you do your own, you'll know what you have.
And I'm not sure a replacement motor with 100xxx miles is such a good deal. It could need rings, too, and maybe more. At least if you do your own, you'll know what you have.
Last edited by WERA689; Jan 9, 2009 at 04:51 PM.
if you can find a shop who knows what they are doing with these it's not bad. however it is faster and easier to just buy a motor and drop it. for example, just this morning a 1997 JDM ITR motor came to my door with the cluster for $2900 shipped. complete engine ready to go. GSR's are roughly $1000 less. i just pulled the plugs and the burn is perfect. it's not a bad way to go unless you really know the shop you're dealing with and that they can build your motor correctly.
I dunno...I'm kinda partial to doing a rebuild, myself. But that's just the kinda guy I am. Many will tell you to just get a new motor. My friend-a Honda master tech- says 'get a motor and drop it in.' But he's looking at it from the standpoint of a flat-rate technician, rather than a diy-type owner. I think rebuilding/re-ringing will teach you a lot more about how things work, and that's a good thing by me. Just my $.02. Plus, there's a lot of satisfaction in it.
And I'm not sure a replacement motor with 100xxx miles is such a good deal. It could need rings, too, and maybe more. At least if you do your own, you'll know what you have.
And I'm not sure a replacement motor with 100xxx miles is such a good deal. It could need rings, too, and maybe more. At least if you do your own, you'll know what you have.
if you can find a shop who knows what they are doing with these it's not bad. however it is faster and easier to just buy a motor and drop it. for example, just this morning a 1997 JDM ITR motor came to my door with the cluster for $2900 shipped. complete engine ready to go. GSR's are roughly $1000 less. i just pulled the plugs and the burn is perfect. it's not a bad way to go unless you really know the shop you're dealing with and that they can build your motor correctly.
Like I said, you can do it by pulling the oil pan, unbolting the rod bolts and pushing the rod/piston up through the top of the block. Easy! I still want to know how the piston got damaged, though....
I'm afraid it may already BE more interesting than you think it is. Think about it...what damaged the piston? Did detonation melt a hole in it? Not from what you described. Did the valves hit the pistons? Maybe, but why aren't the other pistons nicked up too? Did you drop a valve on #1? Possible, but either of the last 2 options means your head or valve train is damaged, too.
What I'm getting at is that you haven't finished troubleshooting your issues yet. Pistons just don't just "bend 2 pieces back at the front" without some sort of 'help'. Do you see what I'm saying? If you just throw new pistons and rings in it and go, you may very well be doing it again REAL soon.
What I'm getting at is that you haven't finished troubleshooting your issues yet. Pistons just don't just "bend 2 pieces back at the front" without some sort of 'help'. Do you see what I'm saying? If you just throw new pistons and rings in it and go, you may very well be doing it again REAL soon.
you know i actually am wondering if this guy is describing valve reliefs. he needs to post a pic. i've seen motors come apart in nearly every way you can think of. i've never seen a piston "bend" cast pistons actually explode if you hit them hard enough. brittle they are.
you know i actually am wondering if this guy is describing valve reliefs. he needs to post a pic. i've seen motors come apart in nearly every way you can think of. i've never seen a piston "bend" cast pistons actually explode if you hit them hard enough. brittle they are.
Gotta admit, my curiosity is getting the better of me here!
actually, this guy can point at what he's talking about off this pic. btw these are those mahle pistons that took a valve at 8500. see those itty bitty nicks on the exhaust reliefs? that's it
WOW...those things are seriously STOUT!!! My ZX exploded the piston, broke the rod just below the wristpin, and the rest of the rod became a 13,000 RPM buzzsaw, carving my cases open like a Thanksgiving turkey!!!!
Let's see what he says next.
Let's see what he says next.
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