Well I went and ran CMP and after my first session on sunday the check engine light came on on the cool down lap. As I am pulling into my paddock spot the car stalls. So I check and it's one single flash either 1 or 10. I disconnect the battery and it goes away. Well I go out for the second session and all is good, until the cool down lap, when the light engine light comes back on. I come in park, and go to get some more gas, all is fine. I go back on track and this time the light comes on on the first lap, the only problem with driving is it bogs on half throttle. If I floor it it goes fine. Well I head home and all is fine for the first three hours of highway cruising at 80. I get on one of the local roads where I can only go 65 and the car starts missing at part throttle, I drop it in third and punch it hesitates and then goes, after doing this a couple times it seems allright until the speed slows to 55-60 and there are some red lights. Now I start to worry, the engine is missing hard, unless I give it full throttle. So I gun it and coast, gun it and coast. What is the problem, I barely made it home. I will call the dealer again and ask them their opinion, but probably wont go up there, to many newbies at the local dealer.

CN= code 10, car sucks I need a

 

Something with the ignition? Could be just timing or something broken.
Don't know code 10 and I don't have the Helms here at work.

 

timing for sure

 

the ignightor, coil, dist cap, rotor, and plugs are all less than 20k old, the plugs are the oldest and will be checked. I will also be checking the O2 and I think I need a breather for the valve cover. Is it time for a swap?

 

the timing and fuel maps get put into safe mode when the cel comes on. I need to fix the real problem to keep the cel off.

 

Could be the distributor angle slipped the ECU can't correct for large error there.

 

Ok I called the dealer and they said code 10 is a air intake error, or the RandD guy at cmp said 10 is a air intake temp, but that is for the B engines, I am about to check the plugs, and the intake TB to see if it got oil dumped into it from the valve cover. I will also check the distributor.

 

1st of all make sure that it's a code 10. if it's ten, the light will stay on for about 2 seconds. if it's 1 it'll blink fast. code 10 is Intake Temp Sensor, code 1 is oxygen sensor. both of these could cause what you're describing. don't mess with ignition stuff cause that isn't the problem. IAT's are pretty cheaply made and are notorious for being bad. check the resistance across the 2 terminals of it to see if it's in spec.

 

Hey I thought I took you and your mafia guards out with some grenades by Sex Club Seven.

 

[evil laugh]hahahahaha[/evil laugh] that's what you thought!!!

 

10=intake air temp.

You should be OK. Dont know if you have cold air intake, but you ought to think about it. If you have one there is something wrong.