Like the title says, with the first cold start in the morning my car will start, run for 10-15 seconds and then die only to start up again just fine and never have an issue again that day. It doesn't do this EVERY day, but it is starting to become more frequent.

It never does it when the engine is warm.

I replaced the main relay not more then a few years ago.

Any thoughts?

THX

 

On the days this happens, does it run rough at first?
What year and sub-model is this accord?

P

 

Sorry my mistake, I forgot to put my car.

It's a 1990 EX.

The engine doesn't stumble or idle crappy at all.

It goes from starting up nice and smooth and then will die 5-15 seconds later.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A%2Ahow-clean%2A%2A%2A-your-iacv-k-idle-air-control-valve-1575913/

Here is a sample of cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve, yours may be located in a different location, there are samples of the other type here on the website.

Just as a test, when you first turn the key on without actually starting the car, the Check Engine Light comes on for a few seconds and then the light goes out, when the light goes out, turn the key off and recycle it to on again, wait for the light to go out and recycle one more time for a total of three cycles, then start the car and see if it continues to run, here you are adding extra fuel pressure if the fuel pump is in fact weak, this may help show this possible fuel pump issue.

 

If the Fuel Filter hasn't been replaced, that would be the first thing I'd look at.
It sounds like the intitial start is supplied exclusively by the residual pressure in the fuel rail and the fuel pump isn't quick enough to re-establish operating pressure; thus the stall.
The second key cycle re-energizes the pump, rebuilds the rail pressure and off you go. It makes sense, but we may still require some more mental gymnastics b4 this thing is completely resolved. I want to address the cheap things before anyone starts throwing money

P

 

I replaced my fuel filter a few years ago around the same time I did my main relay so I'm going to assume those two items are covered(but know who sometimes, right?).

I like the fuel idea, I had a similar thought when I first experienced this and that's why I've been trying to get into the habit of letting my fuel pump prime all the way before I turn it over in the morning.

The fact that so far it doesn't happen everytime, it makes it kinda hard to troubleshoot currently but if it starts happening in a predictable pattern, I can start priming the pump more to see if that is the issue.

I do know at random times(not very often) my accord will hunt for an idle and it always finds it way out of hunting.
I'll locate the IAB this weekend on my 90 and see if I can clean her out.

 

It could be a marginal (and dirty) Idle Speed Control Motor (Valve) combined with a dirty Throttle body might contribute to this. When PCV residue builds up near the throttle plate, it can effectly close it off (choke) to the point that the IACM(V) can't compensate sufficiently. I'd grab a few cans of Carburetor Cleaner, a beverage of choice and an hour or two and become fast friends with your Throttle body,

P

 

Clean the throttle body and the IAC, check.

I should be able to do those things this weekend.

 

Cleaned those things, didn't change anything.

We have a big freeze last week here in portland and now it's REALLY hard to get it start, it will fail almost everytime on the cold start and when it would catch, it would run slightly rough for so many seconds.

That was my clue, I bet something in the ignition is corroding.

Started with the small things. Took the cap and rotor off, turns out the rotor contact was REALLY corroded.

Strange cause I did a tune up not more then 1.5 years ago.

Replaced cap and rotor and she fired right up this morning.

The next few days of cold starts will be the real test.