1997 accord o2 sensor problem? battery draining!
a couple days ago i was driving and my abs light came on and shortly after my cel came on. about 20 minutes after that my car started bogging and then just died. i got the car to my house and my battery was dead. the code i pulled was 141 i believe, bank 1 sensor 2. i switched out the o2 sensor and cleared the code. then the light came on right as i started the car. the car died on my way home and the battery just gets drained crazy fast. I really need some help with this one.
here is what i have done/checked
had battery tested- its 4 months old and 100% good
replaced o2 sensor
replaced battery terminal cables
replaced ground wire from battery to frame
checked all fuses
any help would be awesome.
thanks
kc
here is what i have done/checked
had battery tested- its 4 months old and 100% good
replaced o2 sensor
replaced battery terminal cables
replaced ground wire from battery to frame
checked all fuses
any help would be awesome.
thanks
kc
a couple days ago i was driving and my abs light came on and shortly after my cel came on. about 20 minutes after that my car started bogging and then just died. i got the car to my house and my battery was dead. the code i pulled was 141 i believe, bank 1 sensor 2. i switched out the o2 sensor and cleared the code. then the light came on right as i started the car. the car died on my way home and the battery just gets drained crazy fast. I really need some help with this one.
here is what i have done/checked
had battery tested- its 4 months old and 100% good
replaced o2 sensor
replaced battery terminal cables
replaced ground wire from battery to frame
checked all fuses
any help would be awesome.
thanks
kc
here is what i have done/checked
had battery tested- its 4 months old and 100% good
replaced o2 sensor
replaced battery terminal cables
replaced ground wire from battery to frame
checked all fuses
any help would be awesome.
thanks
kc
Pick up one of those cheap cig lighter LED power lights, it shows like from 9 to 15 volts or something like that, you need to monitor the voltage to be sure the alternator is working and your battery is not dieing while driving. There is a charging thread going on now with a PDF attachment dealing with the ELD, check it out too.
Your Alternator has most likely gone the way of Barney the ^%$& Dinosaur: dead, Dead Dead!
Systems started dropping out when (after driving the car on Battery power only) the remaining voltage dropped below 8.5 volts; below the threshold needed to keep things powered.
The O2 sensor most likely will be a different issue altogether. You may have addressed the O2 issue correctly; you just had the underlying Alternator condition
complicating things.
P
Systems started dropping out when (after driving the car on Battery power only) the remaining voltage dropped below 8.5 volts; below the threshold needed to keep things powered.
The O2 sensor most likely will be a different issue altogether. You may have addressed the O2 issue correctly; you just had the underlying Alternator condition
complicating things.
P
I was going to suggest the Electrical Load Detector, but that costs money and I'd rather keep it simple by asking this:
Does this preported "good" Alternator work ON THE CAR?
You could have a blown Fusable Link, and the Battery would never see any of that "Good" Alternator output.
P
Does this preported "good" Alternator work ON THE CAR?
You could have a blown Fusable Link, and the Battery would never see any of that "Good" Alternator output.
P
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so im almost 100% sure its the alt. i started the car then disconnected the battery and the car instantly died. **** the morons at autozone. i wish i had a parts store closer to home. also what/where is the fusable link?
Now you know why I so affectionately refer to them as DeathZone Autoparts. Only for the most rudimentary things do I frequent their stores, and that only reluctantly.
Fusable links are lengths of an insulated conductor which acts like a fuse, while mascaradeing as a normal wire. They can be located anywhere on the vehicle, but are most often restricted to the engine compartment. They can be found near the starter, battery and the firewall area.
If one should fail, it is most times readily apparent to a visual inspection; the insulation gets soft and 'floppy' as the inner conductor had melted away.
P
If one should fail, it is most times readily apparent to a visual inspection; the insulation gets soft and 'floppy' as the inner conductor had melted away.
P
I'm starting to think more and more it 'could' (and i mean "could") be an ELD issue.
(Electric Load Detector).
I'm reluctant to suggest it however without confirmation from other sourses, since I've never has to deal with one.
Almost without exception, your condition has always been an Alternator issue.
My reluctance? I believe it's part of the Fuse Box (engine compartment) and it could get pricey. If you have a repair manual (Honda/ Hayes etc), there should be a reference to it. I'd look it up for you, but I'm away for the weekend and don't have the reference library available - sorry.
Perhaps Duane could chime in here....
P
(Electric Load Detector).
I'm reluctant to suggest it however without confirmation from other sourses, since I've never has to deal with one.
Almost without exception, your condition has always been an Alternator issue.
My reluctance? I believe it's part of the Fuse Box (engine compartment) and it could get pricey. If you have a repair manual (Honda/ Hayes etc), there should be a reference to it. I'd look it up for you, but I'm away for the weekend and don't have the reference library available - sorry.
Perhaps Duane could chime in here....
P
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