HELP B20B problem 92 civic
Honda civic b20b problem HELP!!!!
I tried everything with t5his damn car. Changed the ignition coil, igniter, spark plug wires, spark plugs, fuel pump, computer, fuses, mad stuff. I need help. I copied this guys complaint thingy. I have the same exact symptoms.

hey there,
i have a 1996 honda civic coupe. the check engine light has been on for a couple months and the mechanic has said that it is in relation to the idle air control valve. i replaced the valve myself. the check engine light has turned back on and the symptoms still exist which include fluctuating RPM levels at higher engine temps as well as sensitive throttle response. i have taken it appart multiple times and disconnnected the battery at the same time. the problem goes away but then returns about 50 miles down the road. what is the possibility of it being the electrical connector located on the IAC and do you have any recommendations as far as resetting the IAC after i install it.
Just want to get this little problem fixed as soon as possible….any of your input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys
So if any 1 can Help me please HELP!!! Engine code is 17 vss sensor, 07 TPS sensor circuit, and 06 ECT. The only 1 I'm worried about is 07.

 

Anybody?

 

? BUMP if u look please

 

no one for real?

 

check all the wires connected to the sensors themselves. that might b a problem, also there could be a vaccuum leak?? maybe...not sure, but yeah, it's most likely the wires or just replace all those sensors with brand new ones....the Throttle Position Sensor, Vehicle Speed Sensor......but i not sure what the ECT is. and TPS circuit sounds like wires not connected properly......to me that'd mean the circuit is not completed and it's trying to complete it, thus throwing that code. am i wrong anyone? correct me? this is my best answer

 

wll thanks any way. I will be checking all the connections.

 

what about that valve thats under the throttle body? also i would try and remedy all your cels regardless if they affect your engine or not.

 

the only reason why I wasn't worried about the other CEL's was they were on because I disconnected those sensors so as far as I know the only one really affecting everything is the TPS sensor circuit issue.

 

Well for one thing I wouldn't just ignore CELs, you should try to fix all of them.

Sorry if this is a bit direct but you really just have to troubleshoot your sensors and wiring to ensure that:
- Your sensor(s) is/are receiving reference voltage
- Your ECU is providing reference voltage
- Your ECU is receiving sensor output voltage
- Your sensor internals are still functioning (providing proper resistances & voltages)

What ECU are you running with this beast right now anyway?

What you need to do is download a Helms manual (torrents and websites have them) and search through to locate the diagnostic troubleshooting guide for your TPS, ECT and VSS. You will also need to buy a multimeter to perform these tests - and do yourself a favor and get a half decent one.

If you don't feel your competent enough to go through those steps, then take your car to a mechanic with a handful of lube.

 

I have a DMM right now and know how to do the test but I was searching for like nu said the reference volts OE so I can do the test. As far as I now know theproblem was the wiring harness. So I am going to try and use the harness that came in my civic and piece together a harness and see if it will work. Only thing I don't get is there are 4 main connections on the LS harness and only 3 on the civic so I dunno. Wish me luck lol.

 

Your codes will tell you where the problems are and where you need to start looking.

As I said, download the manual and it will tell you better than anyone else on here can.

 

Well it turned out to be my wiring harness. Got a new one. But I think the old one messed up something as far as spark. Everything works and no more CEL's but I have no sark at all.

 

Figured out the spark. The igniter coil inside the distributor had a spring that was to far out that was not creating enough of a gap for a spark to jump at the 4,000 RPM. So I replaced that aand the cap and rotor. Retarded the timing because it was set WAY advanced and everything is working good. A few more kinks and she'll be set to start building into my work of art. The help was much apreciated. Thanks