need help on gt35r build
Hi Guys,
Haven't posted to much here but just wanted some advice before i start buying the build parts. I've searched and read a bunch on here and its been nothing but helpful and hopefully you guys can answer some of my questions.
Here are the details:
Car- 98 integra GS-R

Intended motor set up-
98 b18c1
Golden Eagle Sleeves
Arias 9.0:1
Eagle H rods
ACL bearings
polished stock crank
ARP bolts (rods, head)
Skunk2 manifold
Oem (head gasket, waterpump, oil pump, timing belt)
Competition Clutch stage 4
stock lightened 12.5lb flywheel
quaife LSD
Turbo kit-
Top mount manifold (keeping ps)
Garrett GT35R
tial 38mm wastegate
Hks BOV
precision 880cc
2.5" charge piping
3"dp
apexi WS2 or greddy TIC 3" exhaust
Power Goal-
320-350 daily on 94 octane
450+ at the track on 112
My questions and dilemna's:
Sleeving the block would put me way over budget but is obviously the smarter solution. Do you guys think that the stock sleeves would handle the power level if I kept it at 81.5mm or even the stock 81?
If i do sleeve, what do you guys recommend for bore if this car will be my daily driver for 5 months a year while being able to hit my goals with putting strain on the setup?
You guys probably noticed that the head head is stock. Do you guys recommend i build the head also with my power goal with a supertech set? i've read that for this power goal there is no real point. I was just going to get a 3 angle valve job, port and polish, and replace valve seals with oem.
All help and criticism is welcome.
Thank you in advance guys!
Haven't posted to much here but just wanted some advice before i start buying the build parts. I've searched and read a bunch on here and its been nothing but helpful and hopefully you guys can answer some of my questions.
Here are the details:
Car- 98 integra GS-R

Intended motor set up-
98 b18c1
Golden Eagle Sleeves
Arias 9.0:1
Eagle H rods
ACL bearings
polished stock crank
ARP bolts (rods, head)
Skunk2 manifold
Oem (head gasket, waterpump, oil pump, timing belt)
Competition Clutch stage 4
stock lightened 12.5lb flywheel
quaife LSD
Turbo kit-
Top mount manifold (keeping ps)
Garrett GT35R
tial 38mm wastegate
Hks BOV
precision 880cc
2.5" charge piping
3"dp
apexi WS2 or greddy TIC 3" exhaust
Power Goal-
320-350 daily on 94 octane
450+ at the track on 112
My questions and dilemna's:
Sleeving the block would put me way over budget but is obviously the smarter solution. Do you guys think that the stock sleeves would handle the power level if I kept it at 81.5mm or even the stock 81?
If i do sleeve, what do you guys recommend for bore if this car will be my daily driver for 5 months a year while being able to hit my goals with putting strain on the setup?
You guys probably noticed that the head head is stock. Do you guys recommend i build the head also with my power goal with a supertech set? i've read that for this power goal there is no real point. I was just going to get a 3 angle valve job, port and polish, and replace valve seals with oem.
All help and criticism is welcome.
Thank you in advance guys!
stock sleeves have done more than 450whp, and since you are only doing that at the trakc and on 112 i dont see it being an issue with a good tune!
id proly go with a gt3076r tho, but thats me...
id proly go with a gt3076r tho, but thats me...
stock sleeves had made it deep into the 600whp range (not reccomended). For your goals, stock sleeves are perfect in my opinion, also i would use a GT3076R .82 a/r it is a perfect turbo and sounds amazing (like all ball bearings do)
I would go with something smaller than the GT35r. Your goals would really fall into the duty range of a GT30r or BW S200 series turbo. There's no need for more lag if you're not using its full capability. In the end, you'll have a setup similar to mine and i'm on stock sleeves...
Last edited by Schister66; Dec 5, 2008 at 09:23 AM.
thanks so far guys, i'll definately look into the 30r. Already have the 35r which is why i was gonna go with it but maybe ill trade somebody or something.
My local tuners here use Chrome a lot, but i know another that does ectune.
My local tuners here use Chrome a lot, but i know another that does ectune.
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i will have to disagree about the 81mm, most 81mm blocks are so out of round that it would be less than ideal to "build" it
i would sleave it if i were you, it will be a little extra reassurance and incase you want more power down the road you wont need a rebuild
83-84mm sleaved block if you can afford it
81.5mm if you cant afford sleaved block
I dont disagree with what you posted; however, i think our disagreement stems more from my wording. If the stock bore is in good condition (aka not out-of-round, scratched, etc) that would be my preference. When i got my block built, i got a very nice 81mm LS block. It was checked and double checked for all the necessary things. I just like the peace of mind of having the extra .5mm of metal between me and disaster
I agree with just staying 81mm-81.5 is staying a stock sleeve. The hp requirements you're looking for don't even come CLOSE to the need of a GT30R or GT35R, unless you just want to have the waterlines and other fun things. A top mount manifold also would somewhat destroy the "quick spool" characteristics you're thinking that you're going to accomplish which a ball-bearing cartridge.
I just looked back at your goals and to be honest, a 57 trim would do the job all day every day. SLS built an 81.5mm B16 and ran a simple setup on it with a 57 trim. On 91 they made something in the 350whp range for the street and had a race gas tune at 24psi and made 452whp. That's pretty much exactly what you're looking for...
I'd go a little larger than a 57trim, honestly, but not by much. A silver surfer could do it with less pressure overall keeping heat down. I've improved the surfer's design from previous models, so I think that it would fit much more nicely
I think these guys are looking at it wrong, they are saying your turbo will be to big.....I say your goals are to small
, ditch the top mount, ditch the light flywheel, use a mfactory lsd instead of the quaife and you should save just about enough money to buy some sleeves, or buy a LS GE block and go lsv-t....the only thing I didnt see listed was an intercooler...whats your plan for it....
, ditch the top mount, ditch the light flywheel, use a mfactory lsd instead of the quaife and you should save just about enough money to buy some sleeves, or buy a LS GE block and go lsv-t....the only thing I didnt see listed was an intercooler...whats your plan for it....
ohh sorry, yea cant remember the height but it its pretty high, have to cut the bar for sure and is roughly 28" end tank to end tank. Might actually switch the intercooler for a longer end tank to end tank an shorter height for better flow without having to cut my bumper up.
lol at the goals are to small. Trust me i know! I would love to go higher but reliablilty is my biggest concern, and im on a budget and pressed for time (snow is melted by around april and want to be done by then)
lol at the goals are to small. Trust me i know! I would love to go higher but reliablilty is my biggest concern, and im on a budget and pressed for time (snow is melted by around april and want to be done by then)
could any of you vouch for the comp clutch stage 4 for a daily driver?
I've heard really good things about clutch master stage 3 holding up well even up to mid 4's Should i stay stock flywheel or lightened 12lb?
The way it looks, an extra grand or so for sleeves could really bring me to some real power, greater reliability, and prevents me from having to take it apart later if i ever want more power...
I've heard really good things about clutch master stage 3 holding up well even up to mid 4's Should i stay stock flywheel or lightened 12lb?
The way it looks, an extra grand or so for sleeves could really bring me to some real power, greater reliability, and prevents me from having to take it apart later if i ever want more power...
uh-ohhh, it sounds like I got the wheels turning
.....as far as the clutch masters goes, I bought a slipmaster several years ago, i dont remember what stage it was(I know it cost like 450$ though), but it didnt hold the extra power from a 65 shot of nitrous...I will never buy another one of their products again
.....as far as the clutch masters goes, I bought a slipmaster several years ago, i dont remember what stage it was(I know it cost like 450$ though), but it didnt hold the extra power from a 65 shot of nitrous...I will never buy another one of their products again
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chocolatesk8er10
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Sep 10, 2008 09:48 PM




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