can anyone please help me
Ok, I have a bit of a problem. I had a d16y7 that blew up. So i bought a motor. I found out later the d16y7 i bought was an automatic. That was okay because i could just bolt on my manual transmission and be fine i think. Well my problem is this...
I get code 14
MIL 14= P0505 ICS MALFUNCTION or
P1508 IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1509 IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1519 Idle Air Control Valve Circuit Failure
Im not sure which one it is because i cant take my car to autozone to read my codes. The reason i cant is because when i try to give it gas it sputters really really bad, and starts rocking my car back and forth. So im pretty sure its undrivable. This swap has done nothing but give me problems.
I also found something weird. If i put my finger on the #1 spark plug boot, i can feel clicking.
I checked all grounds, they seem to be good. I tried emptying all my coolant out and putting new stuff in.
Earlier in the week when i could drive my car, the car would idle real weird, it would be @ 2000 rpms and then bounce up and down. I had to unplug the Evap purge solenoid to drive the car or else it would make my car sputter like its doing now. It was driveable but just didnt idle right, so i checked my ecu wiring on the iacv. and accidently moved pin a14 to a12[where i found vtec cars are at]. Tried running the car and then swapped it back. Im guessing in doing so i blew the iacv. Because now its acting different.
So me thinking i got air into the system, drained all the coolant and then refilled it.
and now its just idling at 2000 rpms and varying in rpms by like 100 rpms. its stil bouncy but its a faster idle meaning it goes from like 2000-1900-2000-1900-2000-1900rpms real quick
Can anyone save me?
btw the car is a 97 civic dx hatchback with a d16y7
I get code 14
MIL 14= P0505 ICS MALFUNCTION or
P1508 IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1509 IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1519 Idle Air Control Valve Circuit Failure
Im not sure which one it is because i cant take my car to autozone to read my codes. The reason i cant is because when i try to give it gas it sputters really really bad, and starts rocking my car back and forth. So im pretty sure its undrivable. This swap has done nothing but give me problems.
I also found something weird. If i put my finger on the #1 spark plug boot, i can feel clicking.
I checked all grounds, they seem to be good. I tried emptying all my coolant out and putting new stuff in.
Earlier in the week when i could drive my car, the car would idle real weird, it would be @ 2000 rpms and then bounce up and down. I had to unplug the Evap purge solenoid to drive the car or else it would make my car sputter like its doing now. It was driveable but just didnt idle right, so i checked my ecu wiring on the iacv. and accidently moved pin a14 to a12[where i found vtec cars are at]. Tried running the car and then swapped it back. Im guessing in doing so i blew the iacv. Because now its acting different.
So me thinking i got air into the system, drained all the coolant and then refilled it.
and now its just idling at 2000 rpms and varying in rpms by like 100 rpms. its stil bouncy but its a faster idle meaning it goes from like 2000-1900-2000-1900-2000-1900rpms real quick
Can anyone save me?
btw the car is a 97 civic dx hatchback with a d16y7
Last edited by thebleek; Nov 28, 2008 at 09:36 PM.
I guess my first question would be is the IAC a two or three wire that is on there now?
Is it the one off the original motor?
did you change the computer or wiring harness?
All the y7 motors came with a three wire, y8 motors w\ automatic trans came with a three wire, and y8 with manual trans came with a 2 wire.
after these questions are answered I my be able to help out a little more. and save your throttle body spacer.
Is it the one off the original motor?
did you change the computer or wiring harness?
All the y7 motors came with a three wire, y8 motors w\ automatic trans came with a three wire, and y8 with manual trans came with a 2 wire.
after these questions are answered I my be able to help out a little more. and save your throttle body spacer.
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I guess my first question would be is the IAC a two or three wire that is on there now? 3 wire.
Is it the one off the original motor? no its the one off the automatic, i dont have the iacv from my manual y7 that blew up anymore
did you change the computer or wiring harness? no
All the y7 motors came with a three wire, y8 motors w\ automatic trans came with a three wire, and y8 with manual trans came with a 2 wire.
after these questions are answered I my be able to help out a little more. and save your throttle body spacer.
Is it the one off the original motor? no its the one off the automatic, i dont have the iacv from my manual y7 that blew up anymore
did you change the computer or wiring harness? no
All the y7 motors came with a three wire, y8 motors w\ automatic trans came with a three wire, and y8 with manual trans came with a 2 wire.
after these questions are answered I my be able to help out a little more. and save your throttle body spacer.
the thing thats weird is, it was drivable before i messed around with the ecu wiring. i moved pin a14 to a12 on accident and now the ICS malfunction code came up. before all this,,,i was able to drive the car, it would just bounce idle and be @ 2000. the code i had before this all happened was the IAT sensor.
so i switched it back and now for some reason the car is undriveable and i get the ics malfunction code
so i switched it back and now for some reason the car is undriveable and i get the ics malfunction code
Last edited by thebleek; Nov 30, 2008 at 04:37 PM.
yeah i think i need a new iacv because when i moved them back, it had the same idle as if i never moved it from the vtec spot. so i think in doing so, i fried the iacv.
ok so check this out. I plugged the hole for the iacv and the rpms dropped from 1600's [where they are at now which i thought was weird...but anyway...] the car dropped idle like mad crazy. sounded a little too low, but i couldnt look inside my car to see what they were at.
so then i covered the throttle body completly with my hand, and the car sounded like it went silent for a split second but then idled even lower then plugging the iacv hole. well it sounded like it did. So that says i have a vac leak somewhere then?
So after i replace this iacv, i should be able to find the vac leak real easy right?
so then i covered the throttle body completly with my hand, and the car sounded like it went silent for a split second but then idled even lower then plugging the iacv hole. well it sounded like it did. So that says i have a vac leak somewhere then?
So after i replace this iacv, i should be able to find the vac leak real easy right?
i also forgot to mention when i did that test i didnt have my tps map or iacv plugged in.
i forgot i took them off last night when i was pissed off. the electrical connectors i mean.
also how many gaskets do the iacv have? i know one lays flush in the iacv, but was there anoter one that went on top of that?
i forgot i took them off last night when i was pissed off. the electrical connectors i mean.
also how many gaskets do the iacv have? i know one lays flush in the iacv, but was there anoter one that went on top of that?
i also forgot to mention when i did that test i didnt have my tps map or iacv plugged in.
i forgot i took them off last night when i was pissed off. the electrical connectors i mean.
also how many gaskets do the iacv have? i know one lays flush in the iacv, but was there anoter one that went on top of that?
i forgot i took them off last night when i was pissed off. the electrical connectors i mean.
also how many gaskets do the iacv have? i know one lays flush in the iacv, but was there anoter one that went on top of that?
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