HELP! Idle Air Control Valve issue...
#1
HELP! Idle Air Control Valve issue...
Hi All, I just purchased a 1998 Honda Accord LX Coupe with a 2.3L with 5 speed manual at an auction. The car has 159K miles on it. This will be my daily for the foreseeable future so I need to get this thing in good running condition ASAP. I’ve fixed a bunch of problems already but I have one main problem I can’t seem to fix.
The car had a bunch of codes all of which have been cleared except for this P1519 IACV Circuit Failure code. Along with the code I have a fluctuating idle between 1200-1400 RPM, assuming the two are related once this is fixed I should be good to go. (Side note at idle exhaust really stinks which I believe means I’m running rich which I also believe could be tied to this IACV problem because the AF ratio is off). After some quick research I came across this site with some troubleshooting steps.
Initially I tested the circuit and had a good solid ground connection on pin 3, steady battery voltage on pin 2 and 6-7 volts on pin 1, all checking out right? So I move to the valve. I removed it from the car and checked the resistance as per the troubleshooting steps. The Ohm readings were way out of range, so bad part right? I run to the local parts store and $160 later I’m back with a new part, I check the Ohm readings as per the troubleshooting steps and bam 10 OHMs on the nose so all should be good. I install the part hook up my coolant lines test everything, top off my coolant and crank the motor and burp the system. The code is still on and he motor still has a fluctuating idle. So I go back under the hood, pull the connector and test voltage again. All the numbers are still adding up. What else can I try?
***Update***
I found the service manual for my car and there are some troubleshooting steps for this particular issue. Steps include testing the IACV plug for battery power, ground continuity and the signal wire from the PCM to the connector. All check out down to the last step which says to plug in the IACV, switch the car to on and check the signal wire at the PCM end of it for voltage. It asks if there is "battery voltage" which to me means 12.4 V that I'm getting at the battery right? The reading at the PCM is 10.2 V.
Would the loss of 2V account for this issue? The next steps in troubleshooting say if there is battery voltage to replace the PCM with a known good working one and test again if no, replace the IACV.
Any suggestions? If it's the PCM I'll probably try to order one on eBay, I'm seeing some for $90-100 with warranty.
The car had a bunch of codes all of which have been cleared except for this P1519 IACV Circuit Failure code. Along with the code I have a fluctuating idle between 1200-1400 RPM, assuming the two are related once this is fixed I should be good to go. (Side note at idle exhaust really stinks which I believe means I’m running rich which I also believe could be tied to this IACV problem because the AF ratio is off). After some quick research I came across this site with some troubleshooting steps.
Initially I tested the circuit and had a good solid ground connection on pin 3, steady battery voltage on pin 2 and 6-7 volts on pin 1, all checking out right? So I move to the valve. I removed it from the car and checked the resistance as per the troubleshooting steps. The Ohm readings were way out of range, so bad part right? I run to the local parts store and $160 later I’m back with a new part, I check the Ohm readings as per the troubleshooting steps and bam 10 OHMs on the nose so all should be good. I install the part hook up my coolant lines test everything, top off my coolant and crank the motor and burp the system. The code is still on and he motor still has a fluctuating idle. So I go back under the hood, pull the connector and test voltage again. All the numbers are still adding up. What else can I try?
***Update***
I found the service manual for my car and there are some troubleshooting steps for this particular issue. Steps include testing the IACV plug for battery power, ground continuity and the signal wire from the PCM to the connector. All check out down to the last step which says to plug in the IACV, switch the car to on and check the signal wire at the PCM end of it for voltage. It asks if there is "battery voltage" which to me means 12.4 V that I'm getting at the battery right? The reading at the PCM is 10.2 V.
Would the loss of 2V account for this issue? The next steps in troubleshooting say if there is battery voltage to replace the PCM with a known good working one and test again if no, replace the IACV.
Any suggestions? If it's the PCM I'll probably try to order one on eBay, I'm seeing some for $90-100 with warranty.
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