I just had my B16A from H Motors Online installed into my Si replacing my B16A2. Still running obd2. I am running open header due to a clogged cat. Will fix soon. I have a new clutch so I haven't been shifting hard or taking it to redline. The CEL came on with the oil light when I picked it up from the shop that installed it. They changed the oil pressure sending unit and the oil light has never come on since then. VTEC was working.
But sometimes after I floor it the CEL comes on. When it was on the redline became 6500rpms. When you turn off the car then turn it back on the CEL goes away. Have put 200 miles on it.

Today after multiple full throttle pulls the light came on and so I ran the code. I dont floor it when its on.
Of course P0136 2nd 02 sensor.

but...

P1259 VTEC SYSTEM MALFUNCTION
Honda
1. Low engine oil/pressure
2. Blocked oil passage
3. Failed VCT oil control valve

Acura
1. oil level / pressure
2. Open or short circuit condition
3. Failed VTEC oil pressure switch
4. Failed VTEC solenoid

Turned off the car then turned it on light went away. Drove around then I floored it and vtec was working then it stopped working. Oil level is good a hair over the second line. Will change it tonight just in case.

Where do I go from here?!?! The shop is closed that installed it but will pm him on local site.

Thanks for the help.

 

The problem you are having could be because of the 2nd o2 sensor. I would fix that first and then see what it does. Until then DON'T BEAT ON IT!!!

 

did you swap over the oil pump and the vtec spool valve housing? if it is a jdm engine, there is no ckf or oil switch on obd2 jdm engines. that would explain the loss of vtec if the ecu is looking for the pressure switch input.

or did steve actually have a usdm a2?

 

The man speaks the truth. If it were me i'd probably just swap on the old vtec solenoid, although failing that you can tap into the vtec solenoid wire to fool the ECU.

 

Check the fuse under the hood for the ecu(acc or something). Mine was blow and my CEL's would go away after i tunred the car off, but come back later after i drove it. As for the vtec code, check the screen that is on the solenoid is not clogged.

 

no it is a obdI jdm b16a sir II but im using my stock p2t obdII ecu. What about the oil pump and spool valve housing? What is the spool valve housing?

 

next to the dizzy on the head there should be a pressure switch and the vtec soleniod. If the pressure switch is not there vtec will not kick on.

 

the oil pump has provisions to put the crank fluctuation sensor on. you need to swap the crank sprocket too.

the spool valve housing, is the housing on the pass side front of the head where the vtec solenoid is. does yours have the green 2 pin switch?

 

Yes I believe so. The rubber of the wire is cut near the pigtail or sensor. I think that could be causing it to short. In order to look at the solenoid screen just take off the 3 bolts right? What else?

 

The shop said they didnt put the obd2 oil pump or crank sensor. Does that effect it? Or is that a option.

 

then it wouldn't work right. i did the same swap as you, but did it myself. if they didn't put the obd2 oil pump on (and pickup, preferably with new conversion gasket set), then there will be a wire that's not attached. the timing covers are different between the a2 and jdm motor you got, so they had to have used the jdm covers. the a2 cover is shaped different to accommodate the wire for the crank position (maybe angle, i forget) sensor and won't fit over the oil pump. there may be a wire hanging loose somewhere near the crank pulley if this is what happened. however, you would certainly get a code for this, and i don't think it would cause the problem you are having. but i'm not a mechanic, i just know from experience that you need to change out the oil pump. hope that helps.

also, i changed the spool valve from the jdm one to the usdm one from my a2, but i don't think it made any difference. and yes, to remove the housing it is just 3 bolts. new seal/screen is $24 or so from the dealer.

 

also the obd1 motor doesn't have a crank sensor so your ecu is going to be looking for a sensor input that isn't there

 

hmm... i have a crank sensor for sale... you'll need it to run the p2t properly because like they say, the ecu is looking for it. problem is. if you got a jdm oil pump (which im assuming you do) you'll need a type r pump because the jdm one doesn't have athe plug for the sensor....

thats what happened to me... i bought the sensor but found out i couldlnt use it... so i just got a p28, chipped it, got a jumper harness and called it a day. was cheaper and tons easier on me than getting and swapping a type r pump.

 

or a 99-00 si oil pump.

 

Or simply preform the CKF fix, as see here. http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm

 

interesting write up, never heard of that before. probably an easier option for the OP, unless his shop did it already, than changing pumps at this point. wonder why they wouldn't swap the pump over when the motor was out, they presumably had the obd2b motor right there.

 

That trick is what was done. I think the solenoid screen is clogged. I'm going to change it and put fresh oil. I did all the volt and ohms testing for the solenoid and it was fine. I was reading about how to break in rebuilt motors. I can drive it like I stole seeing its a used motor right?