any one use a tilton hydro t/o bearing?
is anyone using or know about these tilton hydraulic through out bearings? do they reduce pedal effort significantly? how do they mount to the trans? i cant seem to find much info on them.
are the tilton twin discs much stiffer than say an act single disc w/ extreme pressure plate?
are the tilton twin discs much stiffer than say an act single disc w/ extreme pressure plate?
is anyone using or know about these tilton hydraulic through out bearings? do they reduce pedal effort significantly? how do they mount to the trans? i cant seem to find much info on them.
are the tilton twin discs much stiffer than say an act single disc w/ extreme pressure plate?
are the tilton twin discs much stiffer than say an act single disc w/ extreme pressure plate?
I run one in my car with a tilton clutch and a tilton master cylinder kit, and it feels like stock. I like it way better than using the stock clutch master cylinder.
The bearing is placed inside the transmission housing, it goes over the input shaft and a couple of stainless braided lines are connected to the bearing going thru the front of the transmission where the stock fork use to be, one of the lines feeds the fluid to the bearing and the other line is used to bleed the lines.
I have a brand new unit with the stainless steel lines for sale if you are interested. And I also I have a tilton 75-series master cylinder kit to go along with it.
The bearing is placed inside the transmission housing, it goes over the input shaft and a couple of stainless braided lines are connected to the bearing going thru the front of the transmission where the stock fork use to be, one of the lines feeds the fluid to the bearing and the other line is used to bleed the lines.
I have a brand new unit with the stainless steel lines for sale if you are interested. And I also I have a tilton 75-series master cylinder kit to go along with it.
same setup as me and i couldnt agree more. i have read in some old posts that if you dont run the whole package, it tends to not feel the same and not as comfortable.
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from what ive gathered from reading on ht, the tilton bearing works better with the tilton master cylinder due to the larger bore size than the oem clutch master cylinder.
also the rod is somewhat adjustable on the tilton master cylinder.
its not that hard to set up a pedal stop.
also the rod is somewhat adjustable on the tilton master cylinder.
its not that hard to set up a pedal stop.
The bearing is placed inside the transmission housing, it goes over the input shaft and a couple of stainless braided lines are connected to the bearing going thru the front of the transmission where the stock fork use to be, one of the lines feeds the fluid to the bearing and the other line is used to bleed the lines.
i understand that it goes over the input shaft and what the lines are but what holds it in place in the bell housing?
there is a gasket o-ring towards the back of the bearing that tends to keep it tight around the input shaft. dont worry it wont go anywhere.
[IMG]http://www.tiltonracing.com/incs/ima...?picture=d0066[/IMG]
i have no idea how to post pictures on this new ht, but there you go. cant see the gasket but it around the inside diameter of the bearing.
[IMG]http://www.tiltonracing.com/incs/ima...?picture=d0066[/IMG]
i have no idea how to post pictures on this new ht, but there you go. cant see the gasket but it around the inside diameter of the bearing.
right i understand that but what keeps the "body" of the tilton from spinning? like if the bearing seized what would keep it from spinning and ripping out the stainless hoses
that whole section of the input shaft that sticks out of the bellhousing does not spin, only the last 4 inches or so that is splined. so basically where the bearing sits on the input shaft is way back against the bellhousing and it stays put due to the gasket, its actually a tight fit around the input shaft due to that o-ring gasket. only the face of the bearing sping which is riding on the pressure plate. its hard to explain, im sorry.
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