Do I have to gap my NGK's?
read a shop manual, see what the gap is soposed to be...go to discount auto store get a 2-in-1 gapping tool/gauge....check the gap right out of the box...if it doesnt match what the manual says its soposed to be....gap it
they are supposed to come gapped, but never install them without at least checking the gap's to ensure they are all the same, whats it take 30 sec to check the gap on 4 plugs?
is your engine modded? if not why did you buy iridum plugs? the only difference between a 10 dollar plug and 1.50 plug is how long they last but you whould have to replace the irridums 2 times before it whould equal changing the v powers to 5 times to spend the same amount of time. always check your gap. and it only takes 5 minutes to change plugs so save 50.00 dollars and spend an extra 25 minutes on your engine and buy v power ftw.
First off Kronik is dead wrong, Iridium plugs spark hotter, are more efficient, and the iridium core is more conductive, there is less resistance than the vpower. But yes, always check the gap. I work at AutoZone and have seen the way plugs are shipped, they get bumped around in shipping and handling, so always check. The plugs that you do no need to gap are the plugs that have more than one ground strap, like the Bosch PLus 2,4, ect.
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Originally Posted by Mosher27
First off Kronik is dead wrong, Iridium plugs spark hotter, are more efficient, and the iridium core is more conductive, there is less resistance than the vpower. But yes, always check the gap. I work at AutoZone and have seen the way plugs are shipped, they get bumped around in shipping and handling, so always check. The plugs that you do no need to gap are the plugs that have more than one ground strap, like the Bosch PLus 2,4, ect.
Please explain how can Iridium be more conductive and have less resistance than copper?
Explain something else to me,, how will an Ir plug have a hotter spark than say a copper plug if the ignition system is putting out the same amount of voltage?
Modified by ruffrhyder at 10:43 PM 11/15/2008
Modified by ruffrhyder at 10:46 PM 11/15/2008
ZFR5FIX-11 are the plugs i got. The gap is supposed to be 1.1 mm, is that what the 11 stands for here?
ZFR5FIX-11
I dont why it doesnt just outright say what the gap is on the damn box.
ZFR5FIX-11
I dont why it doesnt just outright say what the gap is on the damn box.
Originally Posted by BoltonGSR
ZFR5FIX-11 are the plugs i got. The gap is supposed to be 1.1 mm, is that what the 11 stands for here?
ZFR5FIX-11
I dont why it doesnt just outright say what the gap is on the damn box.
ZFR5FIX-11
I dont why it doesnt just outright say what the gap is on the damn box.
Yes the "11" stands for 1.1mm which is equal to .0433 inches. What is your CR?
Originally Posted by ruffrhyder
It somewhat does
Yes the "11" stands for 1.1mm which is equal to .0433 inches. What is your CR?
Does that little difference really matter?
My JDM B20 is at its stock CR of 9:6:1
Are you using feeler gauges or ramp style gapper? I would open them up a bit, since your CR is low I would try even .052" like stock GSR. You want to utilize the widest gap possible without blowout, in theory it should improve the flame kernel. But this is hard to determine w/o dyno time.
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