Brakes anyone?
Dumb question but...
I've seen some people post about Brembo blanks. Are those just pads? I'm just thinking that I'm gonna need new brakes in the future, and I figure, if I have to replace stuff, why not upgrade it while I'm at it. So are Brembo blanks, is that a new brake kit, as well as blanks for the pads? Or is it just the pads. What are some recommendations for brake kits? I've heard Fastbrakes is a good kit? Any input is appreciated.
I've seen some people post about Brembo blanks. Are those just pads? I'm just thinking that I'm gonna need new brakes in the future, and I figure, if I have to replace stuff, why not upgrade it while I'm at it. So are Brembo blanks, is that a new brake kit, as well as blanks for the pads? Or is it just the pads. What are some recommendations for brake kits? I've heard Fastbrakes is a good kit? Any input is appreciated.
The blanks are just regular rotors. If I were you, I'd pick up a set of the slotted ones that are usually on groupbuy for ~$60 a pair. To go to a bigger rotor, either fastbrakes or aem. HTH
Bare with me, I know jack about brakes. Can someone give me a breakdown on the braking system? What parts are involved. How everything works together? How do the Brembo blanks rotors improve braking? What's a good pad and caliper upgrade?
One the side, I've heard slotted rotors aren't good, and I've heard the AEM's are terrible.
One the side, I've heard slotted rotors aren't good, and I've heard the AEM's are terrible.
The blanks are just regular rotors. If I were you, I'd pick up a set of the slotted ones that are usually on groupbuy for ~$60 a pair. To go to a bigger rotor, either fastbrakes or aem. HTH
The slots and drills are used to vent brake gases that build up between the brake pads and the rotors. That gas is extremely hot and will increase brake fad, and can cause glazing. Though this only becomes a problem under heavy braking, and daily driving rarely gets to this point.
Sloted and crossdrilled/drilled rotors are good if you see track time (not so much autoX, since you are going in short runs) then you may want to look into them. Otherwise stick with the blanks, as the other rotors (drill, sloted, etc) have been known to have problems with warping, cracking, etc
What about replacement calipers and pads? Or are those unneccesary? Yeah I have a daily driver, and I understand the point of slotted rotors, I meant I heard they weren't good for daily drivers, like the application I would want. There just unnecessary.
But what about calipers and pads?
But what about calipers and pads?
No reason really to upgrade rotors and calipers.
The best, most noticible, least expensive upgrade will be Pads.
The only reason I could see upgrading rotors and calipers is if you have alot more horsepower than stock, and have "out-powered" the braking system.
Pads will have the most dramatic effect.
Call me! you still in town?
The best, most noticible, least expensive upgrade will be Pads.
The only reason I could see upgrading rotors and calipers is if you have alot more horsepower than stock, and have "out-powered" the braking system.
Pads will have the most dramatic effect.
Call me! you still in town?
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Yeah I'm still in town until mid-September. I'm just wondering about it because I think my rotors may already be in bad shape. There's a slight shaking when I apply the brakes coming to a stop. I was just wondering what I should look into when I got around to it.
versus having your rotors turned (they make them striaght again to prevent the shaking from being warped).... you could just buy some brembo blanks since when you turn rotors you're taking away how much heat they can hold (which means they could crack, etc.)
for pads I'd suggest Axxis Ultimates. one of our board sponsors (don't know if they still are) actually has great prices on them...
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/prod-c...pads_axxis.htm
for pads I'd suggest Axxis Ultimates. one of our board sponsors (don't know if they still are) actually has great prices on them...
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/prod-c...pads_axxis.htm
The blanks are just regular rotors. If I were you, I'd pick up a set of the slotted ones that are usually on groupbuy for ~$60 a pair. To go to a bigger rotor, either fastbrakes or aem. HTH
I don't beleave in slotted or cross-drilled brakes on daily drivers.
The slots and drills are used to vent brake gases that build up between the brake pads and the rotors. That gas is extremely hot and will increase brake fad, and can cause glazing. Though this only becomes a problem under heavy braking, and daily driving rarely gets to this point.
Sloted and crossdrilled/drilled rotors are good if you see track time (not so much autoX, since you are going in short runs) then you may want to look into them. Otherwise stick with the blanks, as the other rotors (drill, sloted, etc) have been known to have problems with warping, cracking, etc
I don't beleave in slotted or cross-drilled brakes on daily drivers.
The slots and drills are used to vent brake gases that build up between the brake pads and the rotors. That gas is extremely hot and will increase brake fad, and can cause glazing. Though this only becomes a problem under heavy braking, and daily driving rarely gets to this point.
Sloted and crossdrilled/drilled rotors are good if you see track time (not so much autoX, since you are going in short runs) then you may want to look into them. Otherwise stick with the blanks, as the other rotors (drill, sloted, etc) have been known to have problems with warping, cracking, etc
Brake pads no longer create these gases that you speak of. That is a problem that cars had a long time ago. Slotted and cross drilled rotors are ok for a street vehicle, but not so good on a race car.
Again, not necissary for street use.
If the slots/drills are not good for race applications, why does porsche still use em on their 911's?
Check out this very informative article about the braking system, rotors in particular.
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
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http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
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Not that I don't beleave you, just trying to find the right information. Even if they don't create gas they still dust. The dust is going to build up between the pad and the rotor and it will reduce contacting surface between the pad and the rotor. Vents/slots would vent the dust still lodged between the pade/rotor.
Again, not necissary for street use.
If the slots/drills are not good for race applications, why does porsche still use em on their 911's?
Again, not necissary for street use.
If the slots/drills are not good for race applications, why does porsche still use em on their 911's?
I f you were to race with these, you almost definately crack a rotor
Also, many years ago my dad drove his 911 on a track for several hours of heavy braking with out any rotor problems. Talking to him about it today, he did say he had to replace the brake pads soon after but the stock rotors were on the car the day he sold it.
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