any ways, the setup has been in for about 3k now, and all of a sudden i getting this:

check engine comes on when driven for about 15 minutes, power loss like as if i turned off the car, i go to pull the code and no flashes

before car dies radio starts to turn off and on as if power or ground is bad; which i have pulled out and checked all connections and made sure theres no lose stripped copper wires

when radio shuts off and on my lights (head lights, interior lighting like a/c control unit) will flicker like bad connection some where also

door dome light dont work any more also

when both of those happen my miles per hour and temp gauge go crazy, mph gauge will drop like i turned off key/ power and temp gauge will climb/ flicker back and forth to high, will move fast like not slowly

i have checked the radio harness, and all my connections at the ecu, im running an ex/si cluster but the cluster was good for a good amount of time, so dont think it could be that... i know this is a process of elimination, so where should i start??

help me out im about to sell this thing..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any ways, the setup has been in for about 3k now, and all of a sudden i getting this:

check engine comes on when driven for about 15 minutes, power loss like as if i turned off the car, i go to pull the code and no flashes

before car dies radio starts to turn off and on as if power or ground is bad; which i have pulled out and checked all connections and made sure theres no lose stripped copper wires

when radio shuts off and on my lights (head lights, interior lighting like a/c control unit) will flicker like bad connection some where also

door dome light dont work any more also

when both of those happen my miles per hour and temp gauge go crazy, mph gauge will drop like i turned off key/ power and temp gauge will climb/ flicker back and forth to high, will move fast like not slowly

i have checked the radio harness, and all my connections at the ecu, im running an ex/si cluster but the cluster was good for a good amount of time, so dont think it could be that... i know this is a process of elimination, so where should i start??

help me out im about to sell this thing..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok....check these cuz im pretty sure i have had some form of ALL of these problems out of my hatch. lol i just about sold mine too. anyway...here you go.

1.)check your o2 sensor. they will randomly pop on after driving for a few min. you might have to get a wideband if you dont already have one...since you are on a turbo setup.
2.) sounds to me like your alternator is going out...my hatch did this and the radio would shut off, the lights would dim, my speedo and tach dropped to 0. come to find out...my alternator was not working and it was just draining out of the battery which caused it to die and all this **** to happen.
3.)^^^^above^^^^
4.)my dome light hasnt work for some time...i wish i could fix it. they are so handy in the dark. im thinkin it oculd be just a fuse or a bulb. i havent checked it.
5.)idk about this one...try swapping out clusters and seein if it still does it. you could have possibly shorted somethin in the cluster out or somethin is messed up inside there.

i hope that helps out some...i know what you mean about almost selling it. but mainly...check your alternator. and your o2 sensor.

 

thanks.... thats probably the only thing i need is a second opinion cause my couse works for elk grove honda, and he said for me to check my alternator... but i thought it couldnt cause my **** to flicker, rather just run really dim til my battery light comes on... but if you've experienced it, it must be... i know my alternator is good, but the thing is my oil return line for my turbo is leaking and throwing oil all over the alternator... .... you are my god... hahahha guess thats why we have honda-tech... good **** though... thanks again..

 

lol im not 100% thats what your problem is...and when this happened to me...it would kinda dim more and more and didnt flicker a lot...but there is a BIG *** ground wire on your alternator...i could wiggle that and it would get brighter...so make sure that is well connected. let me know how everything turns out.

 

It's probably your alternator. Bring your car to AutoZone or Sears and have it checked for free.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiYouLater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's probably your alternator. Bring your car to AutoZone or Sears and have it checked for free.</TD></TR></TABLE>

locally advance and autozone cant check an obd1...op what type of car is this in?

 

its in a 94 hatch.. obd1

 

they wont be able to check it...can you do the paper clip trick? lol

 

paper clip trick?? lol.. you mean pullin the code?? kinda lost? lol

 

yeah...its the poor way to pull codes...but im guessin you know how considering its sayin you dont get any flashes when you do it. lol

 

yeah... lol.. i tried pulling it but i get no code... my cousin gots a program on his lap top for got what its called, but been wanting to take it to him... just never had the chance to..... but its almost as if the key in on the on position and until you start the car for the check engine light to go away it will stay on till you start the car... hahah so its kinda like im pullin nothing.. hope that makes sense..lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slo_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they wont be able to check it...can you do the paper clip trick? lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used to work at AutoZone, they can check it.

 

alts dont like oil on them oil will ruin a brand new alt in a matter of minutes..get ur oil lines fixed.. and the guys was saying take the alt to autozone and have it checked ...not to take the car there

and in most places its a pain to get autozone to test anything and there personel wont know what to do if it throws something there not trained for

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slo_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...but there is a BIG *** ground wire on your alternator... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Incorrect. Its not a ground, its the main power feed from the alternator. If it was a ground, you would have a fantastic fireworks show.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> couse works for elk grove honda: </TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont have my ETM handy, but find out if your car has a ELD(electronic load detector). That acts as the "regulator" for the alternator. Should be a small black box on the back/bottom of the fusebox. If thats going south, you can have alll kinds of electrical gremlins.

 

Check the Alternator fuse first under your dash. If that is good then its your alternator for sure, I Had the same problem you been seeing and it was my alternator fuse because there was something was shorting out in the alternator, so I replace both the fuse and alternator and all problems solve. My car is 2000 Honda Civic SI Coupe.
Good luck....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whereiscarmensandiego &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alts dont like oil on them oil will ruin a brand new alt in a matter of minutes..get ur oil lines fixed.. and the guys was saying take the alt to autozone and have it checked ...not to take the car there

and in most places its a pain to get autozone to test anything and there personel wont know what to do if it throws something there not trained for</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could bring the car too, if it runs. They have a device that can check the charging system.

 

I will second what was said earlier. Alternators do not like oil or water or fluids of any kind. You need to get the oil lines fixed asap. Who knows maybe the alternator will work when it doesn't have oil all over it, but I would guess it needs to be replaced.

 

thanks for all the input guys, yeah what i've noticed is that this alternator has been fine since i had the car about 6 months now, and since i threw in the built boosted d, this has been happening, but thats with the leaking return oil line, i pulled the oil pan off, replaced the return fitting and gasket, and just threw on another alternator i had laying around... seems to be good now, but kinda scared of taking it any where at the moment.. hahah but seems to have gone away.. ill keep updated if anything..