So it seems that sometimes when my subs lose power it seems like or just dont hit as hard i go into neutral (automatic car) they seem to regain full power what causes this?

 

Something is mis-wired or shorting out would be my guess.

Need more info...

MM&Y of car?
Make and model of amp?
Make and model of HU?
Make and model of sub?

How is the amp wired?

What gauge power and ground are you using for the amp, how and where is power lead run?
How and where is amp grounded, how long is the ground?
How and where are the RCAs run?
How and where is the amps turn on lead run? 94

 

Does your idle increase when you go into neutral? My best guess is you have a voltage issue, which I think fcm is thinking above. Most alternators don't produce adequate voltage until they reach 2500 RPM or higher, Idle is where you will run into current/voltage issues. Most manufacturers install alternators that will supply the required current (in amps) to the vehicles electrical system under worst case scenarios, meaning headlights, heater, wipers, etc. on, and it’s the time of year where we are using all these accessories.

When you add a audio amplifier that has an additional current demand on that charging system, you have issues. As stated above, the amplifiers power and ground wires, gauge, and length will all play a role in how much of a voltage drop you get from the battery to the amp.

This is armchair diagnostics at its best, so results may vary. Best thing to do is place a VOM at the amp and run it thru the scenario and see what the meter says.

Kirk R

 

1999 civic lx sedan
its a profile ha700m amp
Headunit is a kenwood mp235
2 kicker comp 12"
Wired to 2 ohms
4 gauge all round
Ground is bout 2 feet or so
Rca wires ran opposite side under the panels of the car
Lead is zip tied to the power wire

 

So no wiring under the console?

I am going to agree with KRock459 it may be a current issue, I would have the charging system checked, most places that do alt. and or batt. will do a load check for free, it only takes a few min. 94

 

Yea no wiring under the conole and alright is there a way to test this at home what tools will i need i want to learn about thi more.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deerman2701 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and alright is there a way to test this at home what tools will i need </TD></TR></TABLE>Not unless you happen to have a a charging system load tester at home. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deerman2701 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a way to test this at home what tools will i need i want to learn about thi more.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter). Easiest way is (with the VOM set to DC voltage) to check your battery with the vehicle off, should be around 12 volts. Next, start the vehichle, it should be charging at around 13.5-14.2 volts. If your good there, with the car running, turn on headlights and heather, it should still read above 13.5 V. Next, with the vehichle running and accessories on as listed above, get your system up and going at a good level..... whats your voltage now? Also check the voltage at the amplifiers power and gound with the system going...what is the voltage drop from the battery to the amp?

This will quickly outline your issue.

Good luck

Kirk R