I just got a 98 EX civic... I was told that they thought that it had spun a rod... so I thought that I would just swap the motor out with another D16Y8... well here is where the problem comes in... I popped the hood to see a D16Y7 has been put into this car.I know it is possible to do this but I don't have a clue as to what had to be changed to put that motor in there. I woa told that the dizzy is different and that it may be nessecary to change the ECM as well. As far as I can tell they didn't cange anything. there is still a paart laying in the engine bay that is not even bolted to anything but it appears sto be a Vtec controler that should be bolted to the head to engage the vtec... I could be wrong I'm not a Honda mechanic. There does not seam to be any cut or spliced wires that I have found so far. I have No idea if the ECM was changed or if it is still the one that was in it from the dealer. Like I have said many times I really have no clue what I'm doing, and if anyone knows how to do this swap please forward me on some info and if everything seems like they have done it right or is now where near beeing rading for that

 

Ok. I'm blaming the horrible typing on it being nearly 3am when I posted that.
does anyone know what they would have had to changge to put the Y7 in this car?

 

Prolly someone swapped out the y8 that was in the car you bought for their less popular y7. If i were you i would just buy a y8 head, y8 intake manifold(i have one for 40 bucks shipped) y8 throttle body, y8 iacv, fuel rail and injectors and keep the y7 block. Seems that you already have a vtec solinoid. And you will need a p2p ecu to properly run the y8.

 

Its a lot easier than you're making it sound. just rip out the POS y7 and drop the y8 in. you can re-use EVERYTHING. axles, shift-linkage, wire harness, but make sure u got the right ECU so the vtec will work. should be the p2p, that's the obd2 sohc ECU. i wouldn't keep the same block especially if they think the rods are no good.

 

If it is truly a Y7, then you would have to worry about the piston clearance with a Y8 head. As I remember, the Y8 pistons were domed, and had a higher profile than the Y7, so compression was higher. If you want to do this safely, and not blow your engine, have someone check the block to see if it is truly a Y7. If so, you have to swap the whole shooting match. My guess is the previous owner sold his Y8, or it was stolen ( hey, it could happen), and replaced it with the Y7 as a stop gap. Good luck.

 

the motor that is in the car now is a Y7. and I finallly got it to crank and run last night and the bottom end is trash... I am going to get another Y8 and put it in but I need to know what may have been changed so I canmake sure I got what I need to get they car back to stock. any help would be great

 

they wouldn't need to change anything. like i said before just yank the y7 out and drop the y8 in everything should just be plug & play. check to see u got the p2p ECU. if a y8 came out of there originally u should be fine.