How do you get rid of the valve gap ticking noise?
I have opened up my valve cover like 5 times now in my quest to minimize the valve ticking noise on my d series motor.
I have adjusted from 0.009 and 0.011, 0.008 and 0.010, and 0.007 and 0.009 and still there is a slight ticking I find abnormal.
I set the cylinder on DTC and adjust both intake and exhaust with a feeler gauge with a slight drag on the feeler.



What specs do you use and what is your process? could having a competition cam, hd valve springs and titanium retainers have something in contributing to the ticking?
I have adjusted from 0.009 and 0.011, 0.008 and 0.010, and 0.007 and 0.009 and still there is a slight ticking I find abnormal.
I set the cylinder on DTC and adjust both intake and exhaust with a feeler gauge with a slight drag on the feeler.



What specs do you use and what is your process? could having a competition cam, hd valve springs and titanium retainers have something in contributing to the ticking?
ya make sure you dont have any performance stuff under there, that happened to me with my ITR motor (for sale) we adjusted it 3 times before we got it right, keep at it! good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00b20vtecoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">every honda ticks especially if you have a built head... </TD></TR></TABLE>
you got to be kidding.
i only put like no more than 400 miles on the motor and tranny so far after the complete rebuild.
you got to be kidding.
i only put like no more than 400 miles on the motor and tranny so far after the complete rebuild.
thats normal, aim for the low end of the settings then.
a bit of tapping is to be expected, and acceptable ticking is purely subjective, listen to any of your friends cars and see if its similar, you may have unreasonable expectations, at least you'll know what you should expect.
a bit of tapping is to be expected, and acceptable ticking is purely subjective, listen to any of your friends cars and see if its similar, you may have unreasonable expectations, at least you'll know what you should expect.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instrument »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats normal, aim for the low end of the settings then.
a bit of tapping is to be expected, and acceptable ticking is purely subjective, listen to any of your friends cars and see if its similar, you may have unreasonable expectations, at least you'll know what you should expect.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i got it adjusted to the low end of the specs.
maybe take a short video so you guys can confirm whether or not to worry.
the Y7 did not tick as much but it had over 160K miles.
a bit of tapping is to be expected, and acceptable ticking is purely subjective, listen to any of your friends cars and see if its similar, you may have unreasonable expectations, at least you'll know what you should expect.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i got it adjusted to the low end of the specs.
maybe take a short video so you guys can confirm whether or not to worry.
the Y7 did not tick as much but it had over 160K miles.
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it could be possible that the noise your hearing is coming from the fuel injectors. hondas are known for thier loud injectors. just a thought....
Mine ticks when cold then fades. y7 141,000mi. I was going to say your valvetrain is damn clean. Mine looks like someone hit it with a flamethrower.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chickenwing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
could having a competition cam, hd valve springs and titanium retainers have something in contributing to the ticking?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Aftermarket valve-train is usually louder than stock valvetrain from what i've seen so i probably wouldn't worry about it so long as you adjusted your valve-lash according to the cam manufacturer.
if it makes you feel better, my Toda valvetrain sounds like WW3 on cold starts in the morning and doesn't 'quiet down' until the temps get to normal operating. even when it's warm, it doesn't come close to being like stock anymore (and i set the valvelash to 0.2mm cold, according to the Toda recommendations...lol!)
could having a competition cam, hd valve springs and titanium retainers have something in contributing to the ticking?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Aftermarket valve-train is usually louder than stock valvetrain from what i've seen so i probably wouldn't worry about it so long as you adjusted your valve-lash according to the cam manufacturer.
if it makes you feel better, my Toda valvetrain sounds like WW3 on cold starts in the morning and doesn't 'quiet down' until the temps get to normal operating. even when it's warm, it doesn't come close to being like stock anymore (and i set the valvelash to 0.2mm cold, according to the Toda recommendations...lol!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TayTeg91 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">r u adjusting your valves when its hot or cold?</TD></TR></TABLE>
COLD
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mashimaro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Aftermarket valve-train is usually louder than stock valvetrain from what i've seen so i probably wouldn't worry about it so long as you adjusted your valve-lash according to the cam manufacturer.
if it makes you feel better, my Toda valvetrain sounds like WW3 on cold starts in the morning and doesn't 'quiet down' until the temps get to normal operating. even when it's warm, it doesn't come close to being like stock anymore (and i set the valvelash to 0.2mm cold, according to the Toda recommendations...lol!)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
There was no specific instructions for valve lash from competition cams so I'm using honda specs.
COLD
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mashimaro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Aftermarket valve-train is usually louder than stock valvetrain from what i've seen so i probably wouldn't worry about it so long as you adjusted your valve-lash according to the cam manufacturer.
if it makes you feel better, my Toda valvetrain sounds like WW3 on cold starts in the morning and doesn't 'quiet down' until the temps get to normal operating. even when it's warm, it doesn't come close to being like stock anymore (and i set the valvelash to 0.2mm cold, according to the Toda recommendations...lol!)
</TD></TR></TABLE>There was no specific instructions for valve lash from competition cams so I'm using honda specs.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chickenwing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There was no specific instructions for valve lash from competition cams so I'm using honda specs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
email them or call them and see if they have a recommended valve-lash setting for their cams.
There was no specific instructions for valve lash from competition cams so I'm using honda specs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
email them or call them and see if they have a recommended valve-lash setting for their cams.
a HT member sent me a message noting that the cam shaft/springs, retainer was installed incorrectly.
The head and block was stripped and rebuilt. I did the valve lash adjustments after installing the cam, springs and retainers.
This is how i installed them.



























The head and block was stripped and rebuilt. I did the valve lash adjustments after installing the cam, springs and retainers.
This is how i installed them.



























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