How long does it normally take you to change your pads? anything to watch out for? I'll be doing my for the first time next weekend, give me some tips

 

Well under an hour, definitely. You may want to have a C-clamp handy, in case you have to push the piston back from the caliper. You'll need a 10mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm (preferably all ratcheting sockets) and of course a jack stand and lugnut remover (19mm). I'm searching for a write-up now, and will edit this post with a link.

Edit: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1938057

Be sure to chock up the rear wheels, pull handbrake pretty high just in case, etc.

Edit2: You may want to have a friend nearby to help bleed the brake lines of air. There is a writeup on this somewhere too.


Modified by Davus at 9:33 PM 10/1/2008

 

it should take no longer then 10mins on each side.... good luck.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SunnyJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it should take no longer then 10mins on each side.... good luck.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow you fast.

 

So how do you do this without needing to bleed your brakes afterwards?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SunnyJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it should take no longer then 10mins on each side.... good luck.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Changing the actual pad or the whole process?

it takes me like 15 mins to get the tools in order, jack, jack stands, etc. Then loosen the lug nuts, jack up the car, put the jack stands on, take wheels off, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sde780 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how do you do this without needing to bleed your brakes afterwards?</TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as you don't open up a brake line, there is no need to bleed your brakes as you should have no air bubbles in your lines. Unless you want to completely flush your lines and add new fluid.

 

If you're just replacing the pads, there is no need of any bleeding.

One tip they do recommend is that you remove the cap for the brake fluid reservoir, but just replacing pads don't require the need to bleed the lines.

 

Cool, that's good to know. There was something about bleeding brakes on the DIY someone posted here's what he said

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know bout anyone else, but when i do a break job, i take the brake MC cap off first. And when i go to push the caliper piston back in, i break the bleeder lose, then push in the caliper and close it back off. do it correctly and no air gets back into the system. then just top it off.

Just the way i do it when the piston wont go in so easily. guess i just dont like fiting something and i take the easy way even if it means longer.

But nice write up </TD></TR></TABLE>


EDIT: NVM he's talking about replacing the calipers. Haha.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sde780 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EDIT: NVM he's talking about replacing the calipers. Haha.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Umm, no he's not. He is talking about getting the piston back into the caliper to allow you to put the new pads on and fit them over the rotor. He does however break the bleeder screw lose which may cause some air to get in.

I do it without breaking the bleeder screw open, I just use some elbow grease to get the piston back into the caliper.

 

oh okay i see, so I can do it without getting air in, just don't break the bleeder screw open and use some elbow grease instead?