Changing Break Pads...problems...???
I just changed my break pads, but for some reason, the break is softer than before...my guess is that air probably got into it (which I don't know how)....I didn't touch any break lines and stuff....
What else can it be besides air?
What else can it be besides air?
BTW, its brakes
Did you bleed the system after you switched pads? That is your problem if you didnt, bleed the system with some good fluid and you should be set
Did you bleed the system after you switched pads? That is your problem if you didnt, bleed the system with some good fluid and you should be set
When you push the pistons back into the caliper, it can let air in. i always bleed mine whenever i change pads, and ive never had this problem.
sup wayne, I just changed my pads and rotors today. I bled my system today but pedal still feels a bit mushy. good luck tomorrow, I'm gonna try and bleed it again tomorrow to see if anything changes.
AUTOZONE ROTORS ROCK!
AUTOZONE ROTORS ROCK!
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No, you don't have to bleed the system. If you push the piston, it will just push the fluid to the reservoir. New pads needs some time to "rub" in, to mate with the rotor. Give it some time, and don't brake too hard in the beginning...
sup wayne, I just changed my pads and rotors today. I bled my system today but pedal still feels a bit mushy. good luck tomorrow, I'm gonna try and bleed it again tomorrow to see if anything changes.
AUTOZONE ROTORS ROCK!
AUTOZONE ROTORS ROCK!
i love the n1...hee hee....
hopefully I'll get all my problmes solve by tomorrow...track event on Sat.
sup wayne, I just changed my pads and rotors today. I bled my system today but pedal still feels a bit mushy. good luck tomorrow, I'm gonna try and bleed it again tomorrow to see if anything changes.
AUTOZONE ROTORS ROCK!
sup ed...
i love the n1...hee hee....
hopefully I'll get all my problmes solve by tomorrow...track event on Sat.
AUTOZONE ROTORS ROCK!
sup ed...
i love the n1...hee hee....
hopefully I'll get all my problmes solve by tomorrow...track event on Sat.
What pads did you go with? I just went with stocks again. Good luck at the track event, I'll prob be workin or something. bleh.
No, you don't have to bleed the system. If you push the piston, it will just push the fluid to the reservoir. New pads needs some time to "rub" in, to mate with the rotor. Give it some time, and don't brake too hard in the beginning...
You dont HAVE to, but its a very good idea. Its gonna cost, what, $10-15 for some good fluid and 15 minutes, why not?
I use a set of Endless pad for track and the oem pad for daily driving. I always change it around, sometime twice in a month and never bleed it, it works fine for me
I had the same feel after changing my pads - make sure you have bedded them in properly, even then it seems to take some time for the pads to "break in". My pedal is getting firm now after a week or so..
Also, if they are high performance pads they may need some heat to get working properly...
Also, if they are high performance pads they may need some heat to get working properly...
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Watchingmycarcollectdust in Orlando, FL, USA
Yeah new pads always feel a little mushy once installed, they need time to break/bed in, just give it a week or so, and take it easy on them during that time, then you should be fine. Then if you think its still kinda soft, it is definately a good idea to re-bleed them, enjoy
Just the pads? I installed the pads and brakes were fine on a track day. After track days I installed new brake lines, rotors and bleed the system. Now it's really really mushy. I have to push the brake pedal 1/2 way down to have the car start braking.
When you push the pistons back into the caliper, it can let air in.
The pads will get better in a day or two.
no need to bleed w/changing pads & doing the proper "bedding" technique according to the pad manufacturer should eliminate the immediate "mushy" feel. The bedding process does 2 things:
1) re-builds pressure in the system to move the calipers back to a "just released" position
2) allows for full contact mating of a new pad to an old rotor (matching grooves etc) - thats why some track guys will switch track rotors & track pads back to street rotors/pads....eliminate the bedding process everytime they switch pads.
Whew - I'm tired....also - getting the fluid level at max capacity will allow your brake pedal to "raise" up = meaning you won't have to push down as far to make pad contact. Check your fluid often at the track!
1) re-builds pressure in the system to move the calipers back to a "just released" position
2) allows for full contact mating of a new pad to an old rotor (matching grooves etc) - thats why some track guys will switch track rotors & track pads back to street rotors/pads....eliminate the bedding process everytime they switch pads.
Whew - I'm tired....also - getting the fluid level at max capacity will allow your brake pedal to "raise" up = meaning you won't have to push down as far to make pad contact. Check your fluid often at the track!
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MattD@Stoptech
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Sep 4, 2001 05:50 PM




