K Swap Newbie questions
I have a 96 EK and am going to try to do a K-swap in it but need some general info...
Want to do this as cheap as possible, but also be clean not hacked up....
all i know for sure right now is that i will get Hasport mounts, other than that i need some insight on price difference vs performance
Axles - hasport vs rsx axles modified to fit vs other ideas??
Shifter box - rsx-s shifter box vs other ideas?? any diy on making own??
Engine - k24 or k20a, prolly get k24 so later on do k24/k20 hybrid
Tranny - EP3 - 5speed - again dont want to speed lots of ??
ECU - japanese ecu vs Kpro vs US Ecu modified
?? what else do i need??
Want to do this as cheap as possible, but also be clean not hacked up....
all i know for sure right now is that i will get Hasport mounts, other than that i need some insight on price difference vs performance
Axles - hasport vs rsx axles modified to fit vs other ideas??
Shifter box - rsx-s shifter box vs other ideas?? any diy on making own??
Engine - k24 or k20a, prolly get k24 so later on do k24/k20 hybrid
Tranny - EP3 - 5speed - again dont want to speed lots of ??
ECU - japanese ecu vs Kpro vs US Ecu modified
?? what else do i need??
Nice choice of motor to go with
Cheap as possible is not a possibility with this swap.
The most expensive aspects of the swap are these items:
K20A/A2 engine itself
KPRO ecu - ranges from $900-1200 depending on who you go with or buy used.
Header - range from $300-1200 depending on what brand header you buy. Since you want to go 'cheap/affordable' you can pick up the Hasport swap header for around $300, if you want something better go Rcrew ($600-750) peep JHPUSA.com site
Axles - if you're keeping the engine mostly stock, you can simply use K20A3 axles (base RSX or 02-04 Civic Si). If you're going supercharger or turbo, then you want stronger axles that Hasport sells. K20A3 axles use 32mm outter joints which plug right into EG/EK/DC2 knuckle/hub assemblies. However, Type-S axles are per for people who've converted to 5 lug because they use a 36mm outter joint.
Shifter box AND CABLES - you can use any from an 02-04 RSX-S/Base. This is the only shifter assembly you can use.
If you go K24 I highly suggest Hasports EKK2 mount kit which lets you reposition the motor closer to the firewall (its more centered vs EKK1 kit). Also, this kit may provide better hood clearance being that the K24 engine is taller than a K20. You'll have to swap out the EK crossmember for that of an EG/DC2 crossmember as well as the front lower control arms as well when using the EKK2 kit. It's worth it.
Tranny - you'll save $$ going with a K20A3 5-speed trans - but later on - I guarantee you'll want to upgrade to a Type-R or Type-S trans which has tighter gearing, a neat 6th gear, and LSD (type-R). So it's better to just buy a Type-R/S tranny to begin with cuz you'll spend about the same, if not more, converting the K20A3 trans to Type-R/S spec.
ECU - If you can get a JDM K-series ecu, you can run this for the time being as there is no immobilizer to prevent you from starting the car. US RSX ecu's have an immobilizer which you cannot bypass unless you get it KPRO'd. A modified JDM or US K-series ecu essentially become the same thing when they get KPRO'd....so it doesn't matter in that aspect.
Other parts you'll need:
- custom engine harness (hasport, Rcew, Rywire, Hybrid Racing)
- fuel components - fuel rail, fuel pressure regulater, and fuel lines
- relocated radiator
- custom upper radiator & firewall hoses, EP3 lower rad hose
- Karcepts shifter relocater kit
- new custom exhaust piping
- fuel rail
- EP3 idler pulley (depends on what K engine you get)
you know, if I were you, I would buy a complete K20A-R or K20A2 (type-s) engine swap because the head and trans is the most desired parts when doing a K24 w/K20 head setup. You can find K24 longblocks CHEAP now (under $800), the block is the only thing you'll need from a K24...the 24 head is useless if you're looking to make power.
And just to throw a monkey wrench into what I've already listed above, there's been some recent advancements with the K20A3 engine. One guy figured out how to make Type-S cams work in the A3 head. Read about it here:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10907
Btw, http://www.k20a.org is the **** for any information K series. Reason I brought up the K20A3 is because you can pick a complete A3 swap up CHEAP (under $2000). A3 is like the Type-S's little kid brother.
anywho, I'm tire of typing. Hope this helps
Cheap as possible is not a possibility with this swap.
The most expensive aspects of the swap are these items:
K20A/A2 engine itself
KPRO ecu - ranges from $900-1200 depending on who you go with or buy used.
Header - range from $300-1200 depending on what brand header you buy. Since you want to go 'cheap/affordable' you can pick up the Hasport swap header for around $300, if you want something better go Rcrew ($600-750) peep JHPUSA.com site
Axles - if you're keeping the engine mostly stock, you can simply use K20A3 axles (base RSX or 02-04 Civic Si). If you're going supercharger or turbo, then you want stronger axles that Hasport sells. K20A3 axles use 32mm outter joints which plug right into EG/EK/DC2 knuckle/hub assemblies. However, Type-S axles are per for people who've converted to 5 lug because they use a 36mm outter joint.
Shifter box AND CABLES - you can use any from an 02-04 RSX-S/Base. This is the only shifter assembly you can use.
If you go K24 I highly suggest Hasports EKK2 mount kit which lets you reposition the motor closer to the firewall (its more centered vs EKK1 kit). Also, this kit may provide better hood clearance being that the K24 engine is taller than a K20. You'll have to swap out the EK crossmember for that of an EG/DC2 crossmember as well as the front lower control arms as well when using the EKK2 kit. It's worth it.
Tranny - you'll save $$ going with a K20A3 5-speed trans - but later on - I guarantee you'll want to upgrade to a Type-R or Type-S trans which has tighter gearing, a neat 6th gear, and LSD (type-R). So it's better to just buy a Type-R/S tranny to begin with cuz you'll spend about the same, if not more, converting the K20A3 trans to Type-R/S spec.
ECU - If you can get a JDM K-series ecu, you can run this for the time being as there is no immobilizer to prevent you from starting the car. US RSX ecu's have an immobilizer which you cannot bypass unless you get it KPRO'd. A modified JDM or US K-series ecu essentially become the same thing when they get KPRO'd....so it doesn't matter in that aspect.
Other parts you'll need:
- custom engine harness (hasport, Rcew, Rywire, Hybrid Racing)
- fuel components - fuel rail, fuel pressure regulater, and fuel lines
- relocated radiator
- custom upper radiator & firewall hoses, EP3 lower rad hose
- Karcepts shifter relocater kit
- new custom exhaust piping
- fuel rail
- EP3 idler pulley (depends on what K engine you get)
you know, if I were you, I would buy a complete K20A-R or K20A2 (type-s) engine swap because the head and trans is the most desired parts when doing a K24 w/K20 head setup. You can find K24 longblocks CHEAP now (under $800), the block is the only thing you'll need from a K24...the 24 head is useless if you're looking to make power.
And just to throw a monkey wrench into what I've already listed above, there's been some recent advancements with the K20A3 engine. One guy figured out how to make Type-S cams work in the A3 head. Read about it here:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10907
Btw, http://www.k20a.org is the **** for any information K series. Reason I brought up the K20A3 is because you can pick a complete A3 swap up CHEAP (under $2000). A3 is like the Type-S's little kid brother.
anywho, I'm tire of typing. Hope this helps
I second picking up an entire swap. Also, make sure everything like the shifter cables and box are included. They are not fun to search for in part out threads on their own, and buying them from the dealer as a last resort blows. 
I went with the K20A2 with EKK2 mounts as well. Me and two friends spend 15 minutes total from lifting the engine off the pallet until when it was completely bolted it. The Hasport mounts fit perfect.
Also, I'd say budget at least $500 extra for all the random little parts you'll need or want to replace. I decided to do replace the bushings on the DC LCAs that I picked up before I threw them on, as well as replace most of the engine mounting hardware.

I went with the K20A2 with EKK2 mounts as well. Me and two friends spend 15 minutes total from lifting the engine off the pallet until when it was completely bolted it. The Hasport mounts fit perfect.
Also, I'd say budget at least $500 extra for all the random little parts you'll need or want to replace. I decided to do replace the bushings on the DC LCAs that I picked up before I threw them on, as well as replace most of the engine mounting hardware.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Shifter box AND CABLES - you can use any from an 02-04 RSX-S/Base. This is the only shifter assembly you can use.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't want to cut into your chassis a second option would be this:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45550
and cables
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46695
One thing to keep in mind if you plan on going with the K20a3 engine is that you will not be able to run the Type R ECU. So you may save some cash on the engine but your still going to have to pick up a Kpro, unless you can find someone to mod the stock EP3 ECU.
Here are some links to various parts list and if you would like you can call us up and I can explain each part to you as well as the pros and cons.
https://www.hybrid-racing.com/....aspx
https://www.hybrid-racing.com/....aspx
and
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28668
Hope that helps!
-Will
Shifter box AND CABLES - you can use any from an 02-04 RSX-S/Base. This is the only shifter assembly you can use.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't want to cut into your chassis a second option would be this:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45550
and cables
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46695
One thing to keep in mind if you plan on going with the K20a3 engine is that you will not be able to run the Type R ECU. So you may save some cash on the engine but your still going to have to pick up a Kpro, unless you can find someone to mod the stock EP3 ECU.
Here are some links to various parts list and if you would like you can call us up and I can explain each part to you as well as the pros and cons.
https://www.hybrid-racing.com/....aspx
https://www.hybrid-racing.com/....aspx
and
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28668
Hope that helps!
-Will
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