Hey people,
I just got through plastiguaging my gsr block.
Mains were as follows using ACL standard bearings
1 = .001"
2 = .001"
3 = .0007-.0009"
4 = .0007-.0009"
5 = .001"

I'm guessing on 3 and 4 since the green plastiguage will only measure down to .001" but the plastiguage was definately wider than the .001" scale.

I am trying to get .0015-.0017" clearances. Are OEM yellows the correct bearing to get?

 

Read the letters on the block and numbers on the crank. Then you can use this link to figure out the bearing color.

http://www.redpepperracing.com....html

If your measurements are correct then you would be looking at red bearings.

BTW, honda clearances are 0.0015"

 

Okay, Block is BBBBB
But the crank was from another block crank code from main 1-5 is
C2, 2, 2, 2, 2
So from the book it should be Green, yellow, yellow, yellow, yellow right?


I using the Evans Tuning link which has the Laskey bearing write up

 

Your bearings are all B2. This would be yellow.

 

yellow

what rods are you running?

 

Stock GSR rods, can you confirm my rod bearings
Crank codes from 1-4
C2, B, B, C
Rod codes from 1-4
2, 3, 3, 3
All green?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ruffrhyder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock GSR rods, can you confirm my rod bearings
Crank codes from 1-4
C2, B, B, C
Rod codes from 1-4
2, 3, 3, 3
All green?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Silly rabbit, the 1st one was free. The next one you have to do a little work on.
Here's a hint go to the next page in the link I posted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Silly rabbit, the 1st one was free. The next one you have to do a little work on.
Here's a hint go to the next page in the link I posted. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, thanks, I see green, green green, brown

 

Very kewl. Now, you have the knowledge. FTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very kewl. Now, you have the knowledge. FTW </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks again, you always come through with the info

 

I measured the thickness of my ACL rod bearings, they are coming in at .0585-.0590"
How much pressure do you apply to the caliper or do you measure just until you feel drag?


Modified by ruffrhyder at 7:41 PM 8/22/2008

 

As far as I know of std ACL bearings are green which is ~0.0590" thk.

Unless you have machinist tools, I don't think you will be too accurate.

 

Naw, i only got a digital caliper form harbor freight, only accurate to .0005"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ruffrhyder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Naw, i only got a digital caliper form harbor freight, only accurate to .0005"</TD></TR></TABLE>

That wont work at all. You need a mic with a resolution of .0001" with a ball adapter on the end of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That wont work at all. You need a mic with a resolution of .0001" with a ball adapter on the end of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hes right! but. i would stick with flat ends! for more precise measurements dont forget to measure for out of roundness in at least four section 90 deg intervals

 

So here's my shopping list so far
http://www.shars.com/products/...r_Set

http://www.shars.com/products/...heck_

http://www.shars.com/products/...cator

http://www.shars.com/products/...Gauge

http://www.shars.com/products/...Gauge

Any reccomendations for a caliper 0-6" range with .0001" resolution?

 

Don't cheap out on the mic's. These are very imporatant when it comes to building engine's. Those calipers won't be accurate enough. If your hard set on not spending the money to get the machine quality then look at these guy's: http://www.tresnainstrument.com/index.html
They make really good equipment that won't brake the bank and will still get the job done. Other wise CC or mar778c could tell you the makes of the really nice stuff. Can't think of there names right know, I know there are at least 3

 

I've only used Mitutoyo but that was because of the shop (TAMU Mechanical Engineering). Big Mike (the guy that ran the shop) would only buy their products but I would definitely recommend them. They are not cheap. I remember the mics coming from japan costing like 500+.

http://www.mitutoyo.com/

ruffrhyder, if you plan on doing this as hobby or a rebuild or two every year then these tools are not necessary. Now, if you are planning on being serious enginge builder then spend the money on tools because they make the difference between making power and making poop.


Modified by mar778c at 4:37 PM 8/27/2008

 

Thanks for the help guys. I don't plan on making engine building my career. Just got some extra cash for a side job I did and figured why not buy some decent tools to use on my next build. I rebuild a motor maybe once or twice a year, so having some decent tools to double check the machine's shop work is really what I'm looking for.

By the way, I was given this link/seller from a rebutable source here on H-T so I'm not too worried about the quality or acuracy of the tools I linked. I told him my plans and for what I plan on doing, I'm sure they will be good enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JakeSpec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hes right! but. i would stick with flat ends! </TD></TR></TABLE>

You will get a false reading this way. The flat edges of the micrometer end will make contact with the bearing, but will not "bottom out" like a ball end and the bearing will appear thicker than it actually is.

 

Will flat anvil mic. be okay for measuring crank journals, then use a dial indicator on a stand to measure bearing thickness?

 

its simple... .0001" 0-3 in. mic's and a tube mic for bearing wall thickness and clearance checking

rather simple tooling now go and throw the plastigage in the garbage...