which way do people gap the rings?
the honda manual shows one way but endyne shows another (endyne shows ring being 180deg apart from each other, honda manual shows them being 90 deg away)

 

oh, also on the rings to the N's stamped onto them face upwards or downwards?

also on the second black ring there is a ridge (im assuming its to force oil back down into the bore) does that face upwards or downwards?

 

I was always taught to avoid putting the gaps on the thrust sides...
So I would go with endyns method with the gaps 180 from each other...Makes sense in my mind!

 

which sides are the trust sides

 

Intake and exhaust sides.


Look at the pretty picture, it will shed some light for you............
http://www.theoldone.com/artic...s.htm

 

kk going to go out and gap these.
the end gap is the gap between the rings where they meet in the cylinder bore correct?

so for my 84mm b20 i need an end gap of .012”-.014mm right?

what are the other clearances listed on that page under normally aspirated? it says .0027”-.0028mm??
what gap is it referring to on there?

 

ok just been outside and measured the initial gaps in clyinder no 1.

rings push down by thepiston top around an inch into the bore.

top silver rings were on the tight side of .012 (.305mm)
black oil scraper ring was alot larger at .021 (.533mm)

are they within spec?
also do i need to gap the lower oil control rings?

sorry for all the newbie questions, better to ask and learn then just do it and pray to god i dont bodge it up lol!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phil M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Intake and exhaust sides.


Look at the pretty picture, it will shed some light for you............
http://www.theoldone.com/artic...s.htm
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Look at an oem manual on how rings are gapped for a k20 engine.

 

naaa im good someone just sent me the spec page form the b20 from the manual. :D

quite glad all rings and gaps are well within specs!

now just to wait until my acl rod bearings turn up tomorrow and it all gets bolted back together!
been off the road for almost 2 months now! (desperate to drive it, cycling sucks when it rains like hell)

 

all good to go.

gaps all set, pistons all in and clocked to the above :D

thanks for the info people :D

jsut need to drop the tri-y on then the head (having a crossmember sucks ***!) then build up the head and away i go! *i hope*