First off, here's the setup....

d16y8
Vitara pistons
Eagle H beam rods
AEM fuel rail
B&M fpr
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Crower valvesprings/retainers
Zex street/strip cam for y8
AEM cam gear
Garrett .60/.63 t3/t4
3" turbo back exhaust


Problem...

When I drive and come to a stop the idle bouces from ~800rpm to 1500rpm about 3 times then it drops to 800rpm and stays (for the most part) for about a minute, then it'll idle up to 1500rpm and and stay. Also, instead of the rpm being fluid when I rev it a little, it immediately stops and drops back to 1500rpm and does the same when driving after it does this idle rise and jars you forward like you're slamming on the brakes. If I barely rest my foot on the pedal, it will repeatedly rev up about 100-200 rpm and drop back to 1500rpm like a very litte rev limit. As long as I give it a little gas ocassionaly to rev it up while sitting it won't do the idle up to 1500rpm and bounce.

I just don't like to be at a red light revving my engine for no reason like I'm some little 16 year old kid trying to pick a race with whatever is next to me. This is a DD it's starting to get on my nerves...

It was doing this before I built it too...

What could be causing this?

I'm gonna charge the batteries up in my video camera and get a video of this in action tomorrow on my way to work...

 

c'mon!?

 

I reckon in all the Hondas out there, mine is the only one that has ever done anything like this!

 

wat kind of ECu u running?? maybe there could be a problem with the IAC valve.

 

had the same problem and threw a cel code14. could be bad iacv, air in coolant lines, vac leak, throttle cable too tight. I cleaned my iacv and bled my coolant(several tries). It's idling better now and no cel.

 

i was having same type problem, it was after the timing belt was changed and timing & idle was set. after going over everythig again it was IAVC tweak. from what i understand the ECU at times must be reset and it takes a bit for it to readjust?
i have a new idle problem now after changing out a stock T.B. to a gsr T.B.
car idles @ approx 1500rpm after starting off, it will only die down to approx 800rpm at a dead stop and out of gear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda98typer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wat kind of ECu u running?? maybe there could be a problem with the IAC valve.</TD></TR></TABLE>

p2p i think...whatever comes stock in the obd2b d16y8....

Is it possible that my TB is jacked up?

 

Make sure your TPS is correctly set @ .5 volts @ idle and 4.5 volts @ WOT. Use the ecu pinouts as the reference points as described in the Helms manual.

GL!

 

if i have a d16Y8 head with a GSR TB would i need to adjust the TPS as well to solve my idle prob?
where i might find that info?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blk92_d16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure your TPS is correctly set @ .5 volts @ idle and 4.5 volts @ WOT. Use the ecu pinouts as the reference points as described in the Helms manual.

GL!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it possible that my TPS is bad? I haven't touched it to change the setting, as a matter of fact, I didn't even know you could do that!

 

i have a new idle problem now after changing out a stock T.B. to a gsr T.B.
car idles @ approx 1500rpm after starting off, it will only die down to approx 800rpm at a dead stop and out of gear.

i have that same damn problem... i wish someone would help us out.... one of my techs at toyota here told me it may be the throttle plate sticking... i wish i could fix it....wastes gas like a ****

 

I'm gonna buy a new TPS and see if that helps...will let you know if it works or not...

 

I have a similar problem. I've seen threads like this all over, so I won't start a new one and hope this one gets enough attention for us to come up with an answer.

I have a D15B, but the D16Z6 that was in the car did the same thing. My motor kills when I disengage the clutch to slow to a stop for the first time after hitting 4th gear each time I run the car. It starts back up and doesn't usually do it again once it's really warmed up. Just before dying, my RPMs bounce about 3 times off idle.

I don't think it's the ECU needed time to adjust, because, as I said, the car did this before the swap too. Thanks for input.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RevenantEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a similar problem. I've seen threads like this all over, so I won't start a new one and hope this one gets enough attention for us to come up with an answer.

I have a D15B, but the D16Z6 that was in the car did the same thing. My motor kills when I disengage the clutch to slow to a stop for the first time after hitting 4th gear each time I run the car. It starts back up and doesn't usually do it again once it's really warmed up. Just before dying, my RPMs bounce about 3 times off idle.

I don't think it's the ECU needed time to adjust, because, as I said, the car did this before the swap too. Thanks for input.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you use the IM from the z6 on the d15b?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EX-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did you use the IM from the z6 on the d15b?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had a shop do the work. I don't know, do imported used Japanese motors generally come as just the long block? If so, I'd bet it was reused. If that is the case, what are you thinking the trouble is?

Thanks.