Im doing this on a base 99 prelude and I cant get the damm balljoint to come out. Im whaling on this thing with a hammer and it wont budge. Another issue is the balljoint moves around slightly. Ive also tried a balljoint press but either im doing it wrong or something but it ends up just sliding off the threads everytime.

 

Stick the OEM jack under the bottom of the baljoint on the spindle, and jack it up slighty. That take a mallet, or a hammer covered in ducktape and hit the ball joint with it until it breaks free.

 

Knuckle is out of vehicle. I had it in a vise.

 

Go to your local auto parts store and purchase a balljoint separator. Makes the job a lot easier

 

The balljoint needs to be pressed out of the knuckle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kornerk12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Knuckle is out of vehicle. I had it in a vise. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, balljoint popper/separator + a lot of torque. Just be careful because you'll probably be pushing very hard when it pops and then all of a sudden you won't be pushing on anything anymore

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep, balljoint popper/separator + a lot of torque. Just be careful because you'll probably be pushing very hard when it pops and then all of a sudden you won't be pushing on anything anymore </TD></TR></TABLE>

Scares me every time haha

Picture for reference:

 

make sure that there is no clips holding the ball joint to your knukle. remove the rubber boot ot cap to check. some ball joints have clips. if you still can't get it out yourself take it to a repair shop to press it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ludster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Scares me every time haha

Picture for reference:

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Are you talking about a pitman arm puller ?

 

what are you hooking to also ?

And how are you not slipping off mine when it gets tight it beings to slip, this is with the balljoint press tool.

 

You can use a sledge hammer it you are careful. You really have to hammer at it though.

 

Korn what are you trying to do? Get the ball joint out the LCA?

 

dude it depends on witch ball-joint you are trying to take off, if you mean the the top ball-joint (the one that connects the caster arm) or the tie-rod end ball-joint then just reassemble it and leave the screw loose then hit the hub side were the ball-joint is in with a hammer this will be enough to loosen the ball-joints but if you mean the lower control arm ball-joint (the big ball-joint just under the rotor) then you need to remove the whole hub and look under the hub were the ball-joint sticks out you will see a circular pin that has two holes at the end, this keeps the ball-joint from coming out take it of and use a ball-joint tool to remove the ball-joint. do not hammer the treaded area of any ball-joint because you will damage the ball-joint ( the screw wont go in anymore) good luck

 

i couldn't get one of mine out, i took it to a friend at his shop and he had to use and air hammer with a pickle fork on it, after me beating on it for a good while, this was the better alternative

 

There is a snap ring to remove on the lower ball joint. Just get a pair of snap ring plyers and make your life easy.

 

i had to use a pickle fork because none of the stores had the separator on hand. pita to use. the separator will do the trick. trust me.

 

I thought that snap ring only help the boot on ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rayrayh22a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude it depends on witch ball-joint you are trying to take off, if you mean the the top ball-joint (the one that connects the caster arm) or the tie-rod end ball-joint then just reassemble it and leave the screw loose then hit the hub side were the ball-joint is in with a hammer this will be enough to loosen the ball-joints but if you mean the lower control arm ball-joint (the big ball-joint just under the rotor) then you need to remove the whole hub and look under the hub were the ball-joint sticks out you will see a circular pin that has two holes at the end, this keeps the ball-joint from coming out take it of and use a ball-joint tool to remove the ball-joint. do not hammer the treaded area of any ball-joint because you will damage the ball-joint ( the screw wont go in anymore) good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its the lower control one. And im replacing it so personally idc if the threads are garbage after im done. I dont know what circular pin your talking about though ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ludster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

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what i used. the best thing u can use for this imo. go to autozone, pay, use, return

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kornerk12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought that snap ring only help the boot on ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

that snap ring is there to prevent the lower balljoint from coming out. I dunno what size hammer you are using, but I just did this the other day, and I used my 32oz ballpin hammer and started whalling like crazy on the stud that sticks out of the balljoint. You gotta give it all your strength, and then some, to get that damn balljoint out b/c it seems like its almost frozen to the hole.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TruNinja619 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that snap ring is there to prevent the lower balljoint from coming out. I dunno what size hammer you are using, but I just did this the other day, and I used my 32oz ballpin hammer and started whalling like crazy on the stud that sticks out of the balljoint. You gotta give it all your strength, and then some, to get that damn balljoint out b/c it seems like its almost frozen to the hole.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, if you use the hammer method, it really takes some force. Just dont miss with the hammer

 

This is the reason why I purchased the oem ball joint separator a few years ago. I had to remove a few ball joints to swap out axles a couple of days ago and it only took less than a minute a piece. It seems to work on pretty much all the different ball joints on various Honda cars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"></TD></TR></TABLE>

mine's just like that cept smaller. but that'll save you a ton of work.

 

bump

 

Damn, I have an oversized crowbar that I pop that bitch out with, but that thing looks easier