Methods for removing balljoints
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Methods for removing balljoints
how many of you guys have removed your balljoints
w/o using the special ball joint tool? what methods did you use.
another question, i'm swapping engines, can I move the car w/o the
axles and engine in the car if I put the ball joints back in?
w/o using the special ball joint tool? what methods did you use.
another question, i'm swapping engines, can I move the car w/o the
axles and engine in the car if I put the ball joints back in?
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From: Norwalk, CT
Re: Methods for removing balljoints (SKDRCR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how many of you guys have removed your balljoints
w/o using the special ball joint tool? what methods did you use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Removed balljoints or separated balljoints?
To separate them, a Pittman arm puller. <$10 at any auto parts store. To remove them, you need a press.
w/o using the special ball joint tool? what methods did you use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Removed balljoints or separated balljoints?
To separate them, a Pittman arm puller. <$10 at any auto parts store. To remove them, you need a press.
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Re: Methods for removing balljoints (Daemione)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daemione »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Removed balljoints or separated balljoints?
To separate them, a Pittman arm puller. <$10 at any auto parts store. To remove them, you need a press.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah I actually meant seperate them,
so you used a pitman arm puller, hmmmm
Removed balljoints or separated balljoints?
To separate them, a Pittman arm puller. <$10 at any auto parts store. To remove them, you need a press.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah I actually meant seperate them,
so you used a pitman arm puller, hmmmm
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From: northern DRUNKit, ma
Re: Methods for removing balljoints (SKDRCR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how many of you guys have removed your balljoints
w/o using the special ball joint tool? what methods did you use.
another question, i'm swapping engines, can I move the car w/o the
axles and engine in the car if I put the ball joints back in?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well everytime i have to remove or change my axles i just unbolt part of the suspension, and then sway bar and then just pivot the suspension out and pull the axle , works good on tegs too,
but if your really trying to get the ball joint out, your goint to either hav eto make a homeade tool, or go rent one.
what exactly are you trying to do, are the bal joints bad?
w/o using the special ball joint tool? what methods did you use.
another question, i'm swapping engines, can I move the car w/o the
axles and engine in the car if I put the ball joints back in?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well everytime i have to remove or change my axles i just unbolt part of the suspension, and then sway bar and then just pivot the suspension out and pull the axle , works good on tegs too,
but if your really trying to get the ball joint out, your goint to either hav eto make a homeade tool, or go rent one.
what exactly are you trying to do, are the bal joints bad?
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Re: Methods for removing balljoints (prelittlelude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what exactly are you trying to do, are the bal joints bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>
swap engines, the balljoints are probably fine
i just need to pull the axles etc.
what exactly are you trying to do, are the bal joints bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>
swap engines, the balljoints are probably fine
i just need to pull the axles etc.
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From: northern DRUNKit, ma
Re: Methods for removing balljoints (SKDRCR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
swap engines, the balljoints are probably fine
i just need to pull the axles etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh ok
well in that case, just undo the lower bolt that ties the suspension in,
then undo the sway bar on both sides, and then you can pivot the suspension with everything still attached, and pull the axle out, this is how i have always done it, and it works great, worked on 4 or 5 tegs, and when i swapped my motor and changed my clutch.
swap engines, the balljoints are probably fine
i just need to pull the axles etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh ok
well in that case, just undo the lower bolt that ties the suspension in,
then undo the sway bar on both sides, and then you can pivot the suspension with everything still attached, and pull the axle out, this is how i have always done it, and it works great, worked on 4 or 5 tegs, and when i swapped my motor and changed my clutch.
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Re: Methods for removing balljoints (prelittlelude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oh ok
well in that case, just undo the lower bolt that ties the suspension in,
then undo the sway bar on both sides, and then you can pivot the suspension with everything still attached, and pull the axle out, this is how i have always done it, and it works great, worked on 4 or 5 tegs, and when i swapped my motor and changed my clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
koo, thanks for teh help Tom
oh ok
well in that case, just undo the lower bolt that ties the suspension in,
then undo the sway bar on both sides, and then you can pivot the suspension with everything still attached, and pull the axle out, this is how i have always done it, and it works great, worked on 4 or 5 tegs, and when i swapped my motor and changed my clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
koo, thanks for teh help Tom
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From: northern DRUNKit, ma
Re: Methods for removing balljoints (SKDRCR)
also you leave the steering attached and everything, just turn the steering wheel accordingly to what ever side you working on, just look at everything on the suspension, you will see how it, works.
the passanger side is kinda tight getting it out, but you will get it
the passanger side is kinda tight getting it out, but you will get it
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
i undo the castle nut halfway and take a hammer to the ball joint and "tap" (or bang the **** out of) the arm on the reinforced part of the arm, and the ball jt pops off.
i've killed a few ball jt grease jackets with arm pullers...
i've killed a few ball jt grease jackets with arm pullers...
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From: Charleston, SC
Re: (bad-monkey)
hitting the ball joint can actually cause damage. Replacing that is more expensive than boot.
Just curious, have any of you guys had the ball joint spin when trying to replace the castle nut back? How did you fix it? I remember it happened to me before on my prelude but I forgot how I fixed it.
Just curious, have any of you guys had the ball joint spin when trying to replace the castle nut back? How did you fix it? I remember it happened to me before on my prelude but I forgot how I fixed it.
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From: northern DRUNKit, ma
Re: (PrecisionH23a)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hitting the ball joint can actually cause damage. Replacing that is more expensive than boot.
Just curious, have any of you guys had the ball joint spin when trying to replace the castle nut back? How did you fix it? I remember it happened to me before on my prelude but I forgot how I fixed it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya when the joint started to spin, i think i just put alittle presure on the tappered part just to get it to start to catch, and then you continue to tighten the castle nut, thats always worked for me.
Just curious, have any of you guys had the ball joint spin when trying to replace the castle nut back? How did you fix it? I remember it happened to me before on my prelude but I forgot how I fixed it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya when the joint started to spin, i think i just put alittle presure on the tappered part just to get it to start to catch, and then you continue to tighten the castle nut, thats always worked for me.
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From: Flowery Branch, Ga
Re: (PrecisionH23a)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hitting the ball joint can actually cause damage. Replacing that is more expensive than boot.
Just curious, have any of you guys had the ball joint spin when trying to replace the castle nut back? How did you fix it? I remember it happened to me before on my prelude but I forgot how I fixed it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've had that happen on two different ball joints before.
The first time, I put a jack up and pushed up on the suspension and it made it catch.
The second time, I just tapped it on w/ my impact wrench. Worked very nicely
Just curious, have any of you guys had the ball joint spin when trying to replace the castle nut back? How did you fix it? I remember it happened to me before on my prelude but I forgot how I fixed it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've had that happen on two different ball joints before.
The first time, I put a jack up and pushed up on the suspension and it made it catch.
The second time, I just tapped it on w/ my impact wrench. Worked very nicely
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Re: Methods for removing balljoints (prelittlelude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oh ok
well in that case, just undo the lower bolt that ties the suspension in ,
then undo the sway bar on both sides, and then you can pivot the suspension with everything still attached, and pull the axle out, this is how i have always done it, and it works great, worked on 4 or 5 tegs, and when i swapped my motor and changed my clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so are you talking about number 23 that holds the dampner fork on?
oh ok
well in that case, just undo the lower bolt that ties the suspension in ,
then undo the sway bar on both sides, and then you can pivot the suspension with everything still attached, and pull the axle out, this is how i have always done it, and it works great, worked on 4 or 5 tegs, and when i swapped my motor and changed my clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so are you talking about number 23 that holds the dampner fork on?
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From: Kitchener, Ontario, CANADA
Re: (LudeyKrus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The first time, I put a jack up and pushed up on the suspension and it made it catch. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i use my small jack right between the ball joint and the wish bone! I clean the ball joint shank and the hole with a bit of brake cleaner to make sure there is no grease.
brings back noobie nightmares..
The first time, I put a jack up and pushed up on the suspension and it made it catch. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i use my small jack right between the ball joint and the wish bone! I clean the ball joint shank and the hole with a bit of brake cleaner to make sure there is no grease.
brings back noobie nightmares..
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Re: Methods for removing balljoints (prelittlelude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"># 22 26 and 27,
i hadd forgoten about the stablizer so that is number 26</TD></TR></TABLE>
well your technique worked Tom. i removed the two lower control arm
bolts, number 22 and 23 and the stabilizer link nut, number 27 and i
was able to push the suspension outward and seperate the axle from the
tranny w/o messing with the balljoints
i hadd forgoten about the stablizer so that is number 26</TD></TR></TABLE>
well your technique worked Tom. i removed the two lower control arm
bolts, number 22 and 23 and the stabilizer link nut, number 27 and i
was able to push the suspension outward and seperate the axle from the
tranny w/o messing with the balljoints
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Just wanted to stop and comment about this thread and talk about how its a BULLSHIT method ... I spent so much time dicking around with hard to reach bolts etc ....
My advice, is this :
Get the pittman arm tool on the lower ball joint just like the helms says ... it wont fit around the lower knuckle and the honda tool has been known to tear the boot ... the pittman will go ABOVE that whol earea, slide the ball joint boot up a little bit so that the tool rests on the metal
take the castle nut and screw it onto the bottom of the ball joint bolt and start to tighten the pittman tool on it ... the castle nut will hold the pitman firm in place and voila ...
within seconds your ball joint pops off (excluding time to remove the cotter pin) ..
It took me an hour to remove both axles after the forks were undone using this method ..
One bolt, one ball joint ... done!
here's a tip on the axles, have a friend pull on the wheel hub while you pry at the shaft etc. and it'll come out SOO much easier ... it was like butter, it slid right out ..
then take the handle off your jack and pound it into the center of the wheel hub to get the other axle out while a friend pulls it .. voila.
My advice, is this :
Get the pittman arm tool on the lower ball joint just like the helms says ... it wont fit around the lower knuckle and the honda tool has been known to tear the boot ... the pittman will go ABOVE that whol earea, slide the ball joint boot up a little bit so that the tool rests on the metal
take the castle nut and screw it onto the bottom of the ball joint bolt and start to tighten the pittman tool on it ... the castle nut will hold the pitman firm in place and voila ...
within seconds your ball joint pops off (excluding time to remove the cotter pin) ..
It took me an hour to remove both axles after the forks were undone using this method ..
One bolt, one ball joint ... done!
here's a tip on the axles, have a friend pull on the wheel hub while you pry at the shaft etc. and it'll come out SOO much easier ... it was like butter, it slid right out ..
then take the handle off your jack and pound it into the center of the wheel hub to get the other axle out while a friend pulls it .. voila.
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Re: (yohan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yohan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wanted to stop and comment about this thread and talk about how its a BULLSHIT method ... I spent so much time dicking around with hard to reach bolts etc .... </TD></TR></TABLE>
how is it a bullshit method? It worked, and took less time and effort than
messing with the spindle nuts and ball joints taht you are referring to.
There are really no "hard to reach suspension bolts" when it comes to this.
how is it a bullshit method? It worked, and took less time and effort than
messing with the spindle nuts and ball joints taht you are referring to.
There are really no "hard to reach suspension bolts" when it comes to this.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
I guess if you dont have a 36mm socket or a pittman / ball joint tool it would be a pain and your method migh tbe ok ..
but i also had a huge breaker bar and a friend to help out .. ... I got the spindle nuts off no problem ...
the bolts were on so tight .. if i had an impact tool, it'd be easy no problem but .. with manual labor and sockets it was a bitch for me and my friend .. ...
However, the spindle nuts dont need to be removed to pop the lower ball joint
but i also had a huge breaker bar and a friend to help out .. ... I got the spindle nuts off no problem ...
the bolts were on so tight .. if i had an impact tool, it'd be easy no problem but .. with manual labor and sockets it was a bitch for me and my friend .. ...
However, the spindle nuts dont need to be removed to pop the lower ball joint
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From: Burning up in AZ
Re: (H22A EG6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i undo the castle nut halfway and take a hammer to the ball joint and "tap" (or bang the **** out of) the arm on the reinforced part of the arm, and the ball jt pops off.
i've killed a few ball jt grease jackets with arm pullers...</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is the way I've done 5 axle related repairs(engien swaps, axle replacements, etc) in hondas alone, and the way I've taken various ohter gm/ford suspensions apart...just gotta know where to hit it and not get irritated at the fact that it might take more than 3 swings
i've killed a few ball jt grease jackets with arm pullers...</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is the way I've done 5 axle related repairs(engien swaps, axle replacements, etc) in hondas alone, and the way I've taken various ohter gm/ford suspensions apart...just gotta know where to hit it and not get irritated at the fact that it might take more than 3 swings
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From: Burning up in AZ
Re: (ph8ed4life)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've had that happen on two different ball joints before.
The first time, I put a jack up and pushed up on the suspension and it made it catch.
The second time, I just tapped it on w/ my impact wrench. Worked very nicely </TD></TR></TABLE>
I've had that happen on two different ball joints before.
The first time, I put a jack up and pushed up on the suspension and it made it catch.
The second time, I just tapped it on w/ my impact wrench. Worked very nicely </TD></TR></TABLE>
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