Hey guys I have a quick question 2 days ago I fired up my motor after a complete rebuilt, I did make sure everything will be correct oil clearance in rod and main bearings, block was bored and honed to the size of the pistons by a decent machine shop, new piston rings, checked piston compression OK..
NOW ....the head was also rebuilt it has supertech valve train with flat stainless steel valves, and I am using skunk2 stage 2 cams tuner series, valve lash clearance was done, .007in. intake and .008in. exhaust
When I turn the motor on, the valves made a lot of noise, like it need it valve adjustment , but after the engine heat up the noise was much less but you could still hear it somewhat when you drive it
timing was done right TDC is OK.....I check it 4 times even after the motor was
turn on. piston to valve clearance was check and valve to valve as well, the cam gears where adjusted with less over lap just to clear up the possibility of clearance issues, I am using 5w30 synthetic mobile one
This is my first time using a aftermarket valve train but not my first time building a motor but I never had this problem before specially with a fresh rebuilt
Has any of you guys had experience this before???
Is this normal in a aftermarket valve train ????
I need some good feed back please
please some good help will be welcome

 

ANYBODY?

 

 

 

after you run the car at operating temp for awhile go straight back home or shop or wherever you work on your car at and do a hot valve lash setting. make sure to have a friend help you to get it done before a big temp drop. noise should be a little better. youll most likely get some noise if using a hefty valve spring though. but a hot valve lash adj. would help a bit..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sprayinBseries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after you run the car at operating temp for awhile go straight back home or shop or wherever you work on your car at and do a hot valve lash setting. make sure to have a friend help you to get it done before a big temp drop. noise should be a little better. youll most likely get some noise if using a hefty valve spring though. but a hot valve lash adj. would help a bit..</TD></TR></TABLE>

THANKS

 

NO NO NO


Dont do that because you will eat the facings off your rockerpads. Motor is freshly built right? I think what your hearing is the valve seating harder/faster which creates the extra noise. The ramp on the cams is causing the noise. Just deal with it, if it's forged bottom end, you have piston slap anyways when you first start it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evildc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2 days ago I fired up my motor after a complete rebuilt

I am using 5w30 synthetic mobile one

</TD></TR></TABLE>

im no expert, but as i have been reading/researching (fired up my fresh built motor 5 days ago) DO NOT use synthetic for the first 1000 miles on a fresh engine, use regular oil. Synthetic is too thin.

I also have aftermarket valvetrain and it was making a lot of noise too, i now have 80 miles on the motor and its gettin quieter, but even when hot if i pop the hood i can hear it ticking. I did a valve adjustment, and im gonna double check/do another one pretty soon.

Good luck with the motor and DONT use synthetic!!

 

Check the lash again, shouldn't take you more than half an hour to verify, 1 hour with adjustment. Check it cold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Widebody93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO NO NO


Dont do that because you will eat the facings off your rockerpads. Motor is freshly built right? I think what your hearing is the valve seating harder/faster which creates the extra noise. The ramp on the cams is causing the noise. Just deal with it, if it's forged bottom end, you have piston slap anyways when you first start it.</TD></TR></TABLE> So, you are saying do not re-adjust the valves after start up?

 

CLEARLY saying you do it when motor is less than 120' I believe thats what honda reccommends. But I always do it the next day that it's normal temp outside and not really humid" just so I dont sweat" lol

 

Hey guys thanks A lot !!!!
I was worried I did something wrong, the motor gets better after is been idling for a few minutes , I will give it more time and probably put ticker oil after 500 miles and check the valve lash once more
maybe set the valves to .006in intake & .007in exhaust

 

did you break the cams in?

also you dont adjust the valve lash with the engine hot. you let it cool down. then readjust

 

i would change the oil right away, everyone says not to use synthetic for forst 1000+ miles, honestly do it now, put in regular 5w30 oil....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectTeG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you break the cams in?

also you dont adjust the valve lash with the engine hot. you let it cool down. then readjust</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive talked to tuners as well as skunk and they said their is no break in procedure. A very reputable tuner said he has thrown in cams and ran the car to 9k no break in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ive talked to tuners as well as skunk and they said their is no break in procedure. A very reputable tuner said he has thrown in cams and ran the car to 9k no break in. </TD></TR></TABLE>

oh really? man the last set of cams i installed i did a break-in. to me it makes since sine your getting 2 diffent grades of metal moving against them selfs in high head apps.

 

DEFINE how you broke them in, just curious becaus it's not like an organic clutch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Widebody93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DEFINE how you broke them in, just curious becaus it's not like an organic clutch</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2017908

like that

 

You set the lash for the beaking/removeal from previous spec'd lash. The whole point to that post was to actually confirm his lash is correct. The Whole 2000 RPM thing, if his lash was off from the get go "being too tight" would of scarred the surfaces of the pad which eventually ate into them afterwards. LOOK get your lash at a tight lower side"of your spec on the second time of adjustment" Set it LOOSE end of the SPEC from initial install. DOnt go out thinking your all F.F. Go out drive it like normal, park it after it heated up. After it cools to a meer 100' reset the lash on the tight end of the spec.

Finished for some drive by's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Widebody93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


You set the lash for the beaking/removeal from previous spec'd lash. The whole point to that post was to actually confirm his lash is correct. The Whole 2000 RPM thing, if his lash was off from the get go "being too tight" would of scarred the surfaces of the pad which eventually ate into them afterwards. LOOK get your lash at a tight lower side"of your spec on the second time of adjustment" Set it LOOSE end of the SPEC from initial install. DOnt go out thinking your all F.F. Go out drive it like normal, park it after it heated up. After it cools to a meer 100' reset the lash on the tight end of the spec.

Finished for some drive by's </TD></TR></TABLE>

i doubt its BS. but yes you need to reset the valve lash to the cam manufacturers lash specs. then warm up, break in, cool, then re adjust. I do it just for precaution

 

idk tell this to skunk as well as one of the best tuners in the country.

And the assembly lube and valve adjustment i wouldnt consider break in, thats part of the install. I understand however what you mean and your reasoning. That is what i was taught also however skunk said otherwise .


Modified by lude98SH at 5:44 PM 7/31/2008