I will be installing Portflow valve springs/retainers & my BC III's into my GSR head this weekend?? I just would like to know who did what to do a proper break in. I know that once everything is installed I would have to idle the cams @ 2K for 20 minutes, then do a valve lash. Anyone else did anything different from that?? Looking for other advice from you All motor guru's on here. Thanks.

 

just use plenty of lube on the cams and adjust the valves. there really isnt a break in procedure for cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just use plenty of lube on the cams and adjust the valves. there really isnt a break in procedure for cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well then whats the break in procedure?

 

The method that i use is to run the engine at around 2000rpm for about 20 minutes (using plenty of lube as previously stated), never allowing the vehicle to idle. Shut it off, leave it for a few hours, until its "room temp" and readjust the valves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just use plenty of lube on the cams and adjust the valves. there really isnt a break in procedure for cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yikes. I guess Hondas are more forgiving than a small block chevy but they are still flat tappet cams with no roller followers. Your method would be fine on a k or f20c.

You have to hold the motor at or above 2k so that the bearing moment load is shorter on the cam and rockers. Idling on a brand new set of cams is the best way to wipe out a lobe or 3 (short of running 0 lash.) Not saying it will happen but it shouldn't if you keep the revs up.

 

i have yet to ever hear of a cam flattening out because of a bad break in in a honda. ive always intalled them using oil, adjust valve lash, warm it up and rod the **** out of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The method that i use is to run the engine at around 2000rpm for about 20 minutes (using plenty of lube as previously stated), never allowing the vehicle to idle. Shut it off, leave it for a few hours, until its "room temp" and readjust the valves. </TD></TR></TABLE>

never heard of it done this way before

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have yet to ever hear of a cam flattening out because of a bad break in in a honda. ive always intalled them using oil, adjust valve lash, warm it up and rod the **** out of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is the one i hear most

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ive always intalled them using oil, adjust valve lash, warm it up and rod the **** out of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats how i installed mine

 

At what rpm's are you "warming it up" and how long does that take?

 

In cajun accent "a wha ahpm R u worming it up and how long id take?, I garontee it!!!"

 

what do you mean by rod the **** out of it? like dog it after you warm it up at about 2k rpms

 

i alter RPM (idle to 3k with trips up to 4 and 5k) for that "warm up period". what i mean by warm up is i let the car warm up then i just take it out for some high RPM driving. right wrong or indifferent my JUN 3s lasted 6 yrs in 3 different motors before their demise (which was my fault).

 

Cool. The fastest way to warm up an engine is to drive it around at part throttle at 2.5k rpm or so. But if you have a race car that is not the best option.

 

those were my first new cams so i got taught by some muscleheads. the best was when i took it down the street for the first official high RPM zing and my motor died. lucky for me i just forgot to tighten down the cam gear and bent all 8 exhaust valves.
after running down to get a valve spring compressor that i had borrowed about 1 hr after returning to the tear down we had her back up and running. i stole the valves off the GSR head i took off the bottom end and put them into the B16 head that i installed all my JUN top end components into.

 

wait so do i let them idle at a stockish level or have idle up high like over 2k and then rev it up occasionally, then take it down the road for a spirited drive?

 

But what about a freshley built motor with new piston rings and fresh hone wouldn't holding it a 2k rpms be bad for seating the rings?

 

depends on AFR

 

point blank you wont seat **** without load on the car..whether or not its just partial driving or hard out..there's only really two different ways to break a motor in correctly..search.

 

I run them for 20 min at 2000rpm, listen for any noises, sometimes change the oil filter, take it for a nice ride, come back, shut it off, put a fan on the engine so it cools and check the valve lash.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">point blank you wont seat **** without load on the car..whether or not its just partial driving or hard out..there's only really two different ways to break a motor in correctly..search.</TD></TR></TABLE>

a cam needs to be seated?

 

kid asked about pistons rings and ****..not cams..read the post above mine.

 

so let it idle for 20 min at 2k and check the valve lash then you are good to go