What do you guys think about this "No Weld" oil return kit - their prices are pretty nice too...

http://www.vecco.com/products....thumb

 

Welding is always better in that application imo.

But, I ran a non-welded line for several years.no problems.

I used a bolt on bung and cleaned the surface really well and jbwelded it...worked out great...

I would never use regular rubber line though...back in the day I tried that and one day on my way home I noticed my oil pressure dropping off hard via my pressure guage. Pulled over and my line had broke. After that I went stainless line and never had any other issues.

 

NO WELDING REQUIRED - Punch and tap oil pan for return line (3/8 NPT)

he hee
eh no.

no welding to me would be some kind of bulkhead fitting. or like the greddy kit or atleast they had then where there is a plate on the inside and out that sandwiches the pan in the middle.

but welding is the best.

 

my last 3 turbo cars I used no-weld fittings. I drilled/tapped the pan, used thread tape and screwed in the brass fitting. Never had leaks.

I have run non-stainless return line once. I used some high-temp stuff I got from Summit that I also used on my oil cooler setup. I forget the name of the stuff but it was friggin expensive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chimmike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my last 3 turbo cars I used no-weld fittings. I drilled/tapped the pan, used thread tape and screwed in the brass fitting. Never had leaks.

I have run non-stainless return line once. I used some high-temp stuff I got from Summit that I also used on my oil cooler setup. I forget the name of the stuff but it was friggin expensive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

diff'rnt strokes for diff'rnt folks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

diff'rnt strokes for diff'rnt folks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup.

I'd say, whatever you can get to work without leaking or destroying the motor, use.

 

3/8 drain line? welcome to blown seals

 

I would be wary of drilling and tapping a thin steel pan. Sure, it can work, but it doesn't mean it's a good idea to thread an NPT fitting into that thin of a cross section. As stated above, something like a bulkhead fitting is a much better solution for a weld-less return fitting. Not to mention those guys are charging $8.50 for a barb fitting you can get for less than half the price at your local hardware store.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3/8 drain line? welcome to blown seals</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont understand how a drain line can blow the seals on the turbo since the oil is leaving?

 

Umm......oem turbo cars come non-weld....... I think it should work perfectly fine if everything is torqued, cleaned, flush, etc....

 

Bang for the buck, that's not that great of a deal, especially after shipping. With the drain line being gravity fed, weld-less is completely fine if installed correctly.

 

From their product description...

"T fitting for most blocks,"

I'll bet that's an NPT tee fitting, which is wrong for all Honda blocks, and probably wrong for about 95% of all asian and british blocks, which do not use 1/8NPT threads. Sure it will thread in and tighten up just fine....but just once. Once you take it out, your block threads come with it.

Stealthmode was being modest in their post above. We've been selling their oil line kits for years, and they are weldless as well. We've never had one complaint, or reported failure, and are probably into the thousands sold. And their kits use the proper block fitting that matches the thread style of all Honda blocks.

Okay I'm done!




Craig

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sflemon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> dont understand how a drain line can blow the seals on the turbo since the oil is leaving?</TD></TR></TABLE>
pressure builds up and takes the seals out, happened to me on my probe my line kinked abit and bang i was burning oil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i-want-a-crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
pressure builds up and takes the seals out, happened to me on my probe my line kinked abit and bang i was burning oil </TD></TR></TABLE>

the kink in your line had nothing to do with the line being 3/8". a kink in a 1" line will cause the same problem.

 

My bulkhead fitting is a nightmare. Its covered in Jb Weld and still leaking. Next time I drop the pan I am welding in a bung.!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reactone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My bulkhead fitting is a nightmare. Its covered in Jb Weld and still leaking. Next time I drop the pan I am welding in a bung.!</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm, that sucks. try taking it off and cleaning it off real good. use 4 cans of brake cleaner if it needs it , scuff the area around the bulkhead fitting to bare metal and try it again. I've seen plenty no-welds/bulkhead fittings that haven't leaked. Also, make sure where the fitting is installed is completely flat. hth.

-l8r

 

fair enough, but i think ill stick with the 5/8 drain my turbo uses stock... not a 3/8th.

turned out to be a decent thread tho.

 

JB Weld, son.

 

i say just pull the drain plug and stick the oil line in there and jb weld that ****............................nuff said lol but yea whatever choice u go with is fine weld or non-weld even taping the pan they all work great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MR.NOOLCRAFT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i say just pull the drain plug and stick the oil line in there and jb weld that ****............................nuff said lol but yea whatever choice u go with is fine weld or non-weld even taping the pan they all work great</TD></TR></TABLE>


WTF! Dude, quit working in a non-ventilated garage! LOL!


Modified by pcguy760 at 11:30 PM 7/17/2008


Modified by pcguy760 at 11:31 PM 7/17/2008


Modified by pcguy760 at 11:31 PM 7/17/2008

 

To the OP, as long as it doesn't leak and flows well either will work for you.......

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chimmike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the kink in your line had nothing to do with the line being 3/8". a kink in a 1" line will cause the same problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have had a 3/8" return line make my car smoke and put oil into the coldside. Oil all in the ic and piping, luckily I changed it out soon thereafter to 1/2" and never smoked again........

Many people will agree that 1/2" is usually "best practice."

 

Does anyone know if the Oil Line Kit that tunertoys.com and Stealthmode sell has a 1/2" drain line?? Just wondering, maybe I will call them in the morning and see what they say...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pcguy760 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone know if the Oil Line Kit that tunertoys.com and Stealthmode sell has a 1/2" drain line?? Just wondering, maybe I will call them in the morning and see what they say...</TD></TR></TABLE>

whatever size it is that stealthmode sells, there's a reason for it. If it sucked or caused oil burning/seal issues, they wouldn't sell it