Motor is B16a with CTR pistons/cams
Neither the head or block have ever been milled
I do have adjustable cam gears, but they are both currently set to zero

Here is what I did.

1.) Let the car warm up 180 water 180 oil

2.) I did NOT jump the jumper I usually do when setting ignition timing with stock ecu

3.) I clicked "online" and then "set ignition timing" inside the Smanager software

4.) The little windows popped up stating ignition timing is fixed at 16*

5.) I adjusted distributor untill the mark on timing belt cover was even with the middle mark of the three (which is 16* according to helms)

I have my IACV still plugged into the ECU, but not on the intake mani. It's just fastened to the rear crossmember. Because of this I have my idle set to 1,500, and it idles fine.

From what I've been told, the Smanager removes all advance from the map out of the equation when I'm using the "set timing" feature..... so the higher idle shouldn't matter.

The car idles happier with the extra advance now, and seems to run fine. I drove the car too, and it pulls good and has no signs of detonation. Pulled plugs and they look fine.

I just know it's a no no to crank the distributor all the way over..... but that's where is says it wants it....... Weird or no?

 

I thought you had to be at stock idle speed to set the base ignition timing. Forgive me if I'm overlooking something obvious.

Anyway, since you're in Albuquerque I figured I'd refer you to Motiva Performance Engineering. Ask for Scott.

http://www.motivaperformance.com/

 

check cam timing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blundar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check cam timing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is most-definitely a cam timing issue.

- Derek

 

So not only am I retatded, my timing is too?

for the info guys. I'll check it tonight when I get off work.

 

The TDC mark on the crank is dead even with the mark on the timing beltcover. I tried to take pic, but it came out crappy. You'll just have to take my word for it.


Here's some other pics of my toy, figured I'd post em up since I had to sign up for image host again.
























Modified by brokenojoke at 9:36 PM 6/30/2008


Modified by brokenojoke at 9:37 PM 6/30/2008

 

I just had the exact same problem. We just aligned the dots down a little lower and it worked perfect. Nice looking ride are you road racing with it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sr420Det &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just had the exact same problem. We just aligned the dots down a little lower and it worked perfect. Nice looking ride are you road racing with it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you recommend that I advance the intake one tooth and retard the exhaust one tooth? That's a big *** adjustment. It makes sense that would fix the timing issue, but.... I'm scared. Can anyone else second this?

I'm planning on getting SCCA license at the begining of next year. There are no more schools this year that are close enough to tow. I was going to take the rest of this summer to dial car in. I run local car club track days right now, but that's it.




Modified by brokenojoke at 2:42 AM 7/1/2008

 

Damn that sounds fun. What are you scared off, couldnt you dial it out with the cam gears anyways?

 

Skipping a whole tooth is like advancing 10.6xxxx degrees. Then if I dialed it back with the cam gear, it's putting it back to where it is now. I would be in the exact same situation, but with a bad base cam timing setting.

What would cause my cam timing to be correct, yet have this situation? I'm stumped. I'm going to try to set timing the old fashioned helms way and use my jumper under the hood and see if it matches.

 

You can be off a tooth on the crank and have your cams lined up perfectly to each other. I see it all the time on customer cars.

 

I timed the motor today using the jumper under the hood and not the hondata. It seems to be much different that hondatas results. It ended up being back where it used to be. About right in the middle of the adjustment available with the distributor. No big difference in the way the car feels. I tried it with the hondatas "set timing" feature again, and it wants it set to full advance still. It's dead on with the tdc mark when using "set timing" in hondata, not the advance marks. WTF?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blundar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can be off a tooth on the crank and have your cams lined up perfectly to each other. I see it all the time on customer cars. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe I'm misunderstanding you, but how can you have the crank pulley off by a tooth when it has a woodruf key?

 

Use to drill bit to stick through the 2 of 4 holes in the camshaft/plate...

the bits/pins go in diagonal.

that way you know the camshafts are 0. Don't trust aftermarket cam gears.

 

the belt off by a tooth on the crank pulley. Not the pulley it's self

 

As Calvin said - the woodruff key keeps the crank pulley and crank aligned. You can have the crank turned relative to the cam gears when the belt goes on. No mystery here. Take timing belt off, line it all up, fixed.