Ive replaced my clutch with a competition 6 puck and it drove fine, however the pedal was softer than expected, for about 3 days. AFter those 3 days, the engagement point gradually slipped closer and closer to the floor. Eventually, I couldnt even start the car as the clutch would not disengage. After toying and messing with it for days, I decided to take the transmission off and see if there were any internal issues. Nothing seemed to be amiss, so the trans went back on and all was well for 3 days, with the pedal still feeling soft. After the 3 days, the same thing happens again. Engagement point slips into the floorboard to the point of being undrivable (if thats a word). Ive swapped out slave cylinders, bled the thing for hours on end, taken the thing apart and put it back together, adjusted the pedal to both extremes, all with no results. Adjusting the pedal pulled the engagement point an inch or so higher, but slips back after a few minutes. The only thing I havent done is replace the master cylinder, but it doesnt appear to be leaking as the rez is still full.

Any ideas? Im just about ready to yank all the hairs off my head over this.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I can understand your frustration and it is a very weird problem since it does not happen right away. Naturally I would say replace the clutch master cylinder and look at the 2 holes in the rubber underneath the slave master cylinder to see if it is leaking.

 

Thanks for the reply.

Ive checked the slave and its leak free.

The only thing I can think to do is replace the master cylinder, but Id rather get some opinions on it, before spending money of the MC

 

Bump

 

i had this same problem
my clutch fuild just disappear
then i flushed all of it and filled it back up
and bleed it and it was fine
how are your bleeding
are you using a kit or just doing gravity bleeds
gravity bleeds dont work well
they always let air back

 

if you pump the clutch do you get pressure back at all?
sounds like your master

 

its gets pressure, but its still very soft.

 

Have you used a flash light and looked under the dash where the pedal hooks to the MC. If that O ring on the MC starts leaking, the inside of the firewall is usually the first place you can spot it. Even though the fluid stays full, it only takes a little leak to cause pressure drop. If there are no leaks, go to autozone and rent a bleeder. I am told they work worlds better/easier/faster than just pump pump pump, crack (air release), pump pump pump, crack etc.

May be a stupid question but the release bearing is installed correct right James? as far as being hooked on the release fork and the return spring against the fork inside the bell housing? bolting the clutch up is straight forward and hard to mess up. And more than likely the RB and return spring are in correct also.

 

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be my clutch master cylinder, very easy to replace and brand new Acura part was about $100 with the slave from EBAY.

Mine was working and then as you drove the pressure was gone and you could not shift as the clutch had no pressure to engage. Mine was leaking around the seal as well.