I have a problem with my clutch. I had my clutch set in the middle just the way I wanted it. But a few days ago, all of a sudden it started to grab real high. Then it started slipping. I adjusted it back to where I wanted it but the next day, It would grab real low. I bleed the system with new fluids but It's still acting up. I replaced the master cylinder less than 5k miles ago. Can it be the slave cylinder messing up?
Any help??

 

sry for stealin the thread but how do you set it cuz i needa do mine

 

you have to get under,behind your clutch pedal, break loose the nut (12mm) and twist the stick to adjust.

bump......

 

somebody help???

 

Ok. I kinda figure something out. When I get in my car and start driving in the morning, everything seems good. When it starts getting hot, pressure starts to build up in the clutch lines all the way until it starts slipping w/o pressing the clutch. When it does, I can go to the slave cylinder and twist open the bleeder valve and fluid squirts out like someone is holding the clutch in.

Can somebody help me with this problem??
Thanks

 

Piece of cake. You have the master cylinder preloaded. It is a simple adjustment issue. When you replaced the master cylinder, the rod was adjusted too far into the master cylinder and the master cylinder no longer has the ability to self-adjust.
Please understand how the hydraulic system self adjusts:
When the piston of the master cylinder is all the way back (pedal all the up) a port should be exposed that allows fluid flow to the reservoir. There is now no pressure on the hydraulic system at this point. As the clutch needs to adjust for wear, the fluid needed for the system is reduced and the excess fluid goes back to the reservoir as long as the port is exposed (piston all the way back). If the piston isn't allowed to go all the way back from misadjustment of the rod that pushes against it, then you get the symptoms you are encountering. Adjust the rod to where there is just a bit of freeplay and it's fixed.

 

I did. The funny thing is, this is an all of a sudden thing. I drive it everyday but one day it starts acting up. Air in the system wouldn't do this huh?

 

No. Air in the system wouldn't. Air will cause a low pedal. When you say it grabbed real high and slipped all of a sudden - that't preload. You confirmed it when you said that fluid squirts out of the bleeder. When your foot is off the pedal there should be no pressure on the system at all. I am sure that the system slowly equalizes when the car sits, but as you drive the pressure builds up and the fluid has no where to go.

Check the adjustment again. What about the pedal return spring or pedal stop (probably a switch) keeping the pedal from coming all the way up?

 

The pedal goes up and down the way it suppose to. Except that it builds pressure when the motor's running. I have freeplay in the clutch pedal. I'll try to adjust it again later.

 

If it is building pressure, the adjustment is not right or the master cylinder is defective (which I haven't seen before). To check, back the rod all the way out so you know for sure it is not preloading and see if there is any pressure by loosening the bleed screw. If there is pressure then the cylinder is defective.

 

i have the same problem. can someone tell me what i have to do to fix it?

 

I recently swapped in a SS clutch line insert. I replaced the master and slave cylinder and there is fluid flowing through the system. My problem is that no pressure builds on the clutch pedal at all. I can pump the clutch pedal and nothing happens, brake open the bleeder valve and relieve the system of all air bubbles, and then pump some more but the clutch never builds pressure. I tried adjusting master cylinder rod and nothing happend. still no pressure. any suggestions? thanks guys.

 

The slave cylinder usually goes before your master cylinder, its like 30 bucks so try a new one.

 

It does sound like your pedal is pre-loaded. There should be some loose movement, then some freeplay before the clutch is disengaged, then the floor. I think spec. says 2" or so from the floor the clutch is disengaged. I'll look in the helms if you want the actual numbers, but don't set it too tight. I actually backed out the clutch switch/stop to get more travel. I'm not sure that this is good, and it only increased travel about 1/4-1/2".


This is to the guy with the low pedal.
It can be a real pain in the *** to bleed your clutch. I used a big bottle of fluid. In order to get this done. I need a self bleeder system. I did some w/o the bleeder. I used a friend. Then I hooked up the bleeder and started to gravity bleed. The longer/lower the line to the bleed-valve the more suction/flow you get.

I'm not sure it will work if your master cylinder is pre-loaded.

matt

 

..<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M@ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It does sound like your pedal is pre-loaded. There should be some loose movement, then some freeplay before the clutch is disengaged, then the floor. I think spec. says 2" or so from the floor the clutch is disengaged. I'll look in the helms if you want the actual numbers, but don't set it too tight. I actually backed out the clutch switch/stop to get more travel. I'm not sure that this is good, and it only increased travel about 1/4-1/2".


This is to the guy with the low pedal.
It can be a real pain in the *** to bleed your clutch. I used a big bottle of fluid. In order to get this done. I need a self bleeder system. I did some w/o the bleeder. I used a friend. Then I hooked up the bleeder and started to gravity bleed. The longer/lower the line to the bleed-valve the more suction/flow you get.

I'm not sure it will work if your master cylinder is pre-loaded.

matt
</TD></TR></TABLE>

bleeding your clutch shouldnt be a big ordeal at all.. its very easy and done the same way as your brakes.. if its harder than this you're doing something wrong and making tons mroe work for yourself. took me 2 min to bleed my clutch upon h22 install