Does a light weight flywheel help in the .25 mi?
I have to get a new flywheel as the shop that lightened my stock one ruined it. I know that the motor will rev faster I can really see it on an autox track but would it really make a big difference in a strait line? My options are a Clutch Master 8.5lb (I think thats its 2 light)260.00 ,an Exedy or Aasco 10lb 350.00,or an ITR 15lb? new from Acura 186.00, used 100.00 bucks or so + shipping. This is in my daily driven 92 GSR. TIA
no advice for which one. But too light and missed shifts can be a very bad thing.
And anything that frees up horsepower is gonna help in the quarter. I mean your using less power to spin the flywheel, so more to the ground.
And anything that frees up horsepower is gonna help in the quarter. I mean your using less power to spin the flywheel, so more to the ground.
My 2 thoughts on a lightweight flywheel are...and these are on a NA vehicle:
1. makes it harder to launch the car
2. allows the engine to accelerate quiker, thus the car accelerates quicker
Tradeoffs...
1. makes it harder to launch the car
2. allows the engine to accelerate quiker, thus the car accelerates quicker
Tradeoffs...
it is a toss up. It may help you accelrate wuicker, but that only helps to make up th launch that you just botched. Well, I dont know about botched, but I do know that it is good to have an OEM lywheel for the strip. That momentum needs to be there when you drop the hammer or else you are just going to bog. If you lighten that flywheel you are going to have to launch it at a higher RPM, making launching tricky
7.5 is wayyyy too light for dragging on a na car. You will bog hard. You don't have enough torque to overcome the inertia lost by the lighter flywheel. It will feel good once the car is accelerating and up to speed, its more for a road racer.
I would go a little lighter like a 12-15 flywheel but no more than that. you need the momentum to get you off the line.
Unless you are turbo or NOS'd I wouldn't go that lightweight and I speak from experience.
I would go a little lighter like a 12-15 flywheel but no more than that. you need the momentum to get you off the line.
Unless you are turbo or NOS'd I wouldn't go that lightweight and I speak from experience.
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Been running the TODA one for a little over 2 years now. Did not make launching any harder for me.
I would go the middle road and take the Exedy unit.
Most say that the car reacts differently with one, I never noticed anything but the quicker revs. Street driving was fine, launching and even stop start daily driving was the same to me...
Jason
I would go the middle road and take the Exedy unit.
Most say that the car reacts differently with one, I never noticed anything but the quicker revs. Street driving was fine, launching and even stop start daily driving was the same to me...
Jason
Probably 5.1 kilos not lbs.
I know their Ultralight is around 8-9 pounds the lighweight should be around 10-11 lbs and they are chromemoly not aluminum
I know their Ultralight is around 8-9 pounds the lighweight should be around 10-11 lbs and they are chromemoly not aluminum
From experience, the JUN flywheel knock me off .15 seconths of the 1/4.
This was accomplish in my old b16 set-up. Eo the engine had less torque.
However, I do want to say this. Yes, you will bog off the line and taking off was easy when I had the old flywheel, but>>>>>>you need to practice.
It took me about 30 tries or so to master my take off. The result were impressive.
It about driving techinque, but alot of people don't have the time. Again, I hear alot of people that say flywheel blows. But I think thats the best mod to do, other than a final drive.
Not here to brag, but it all comes down to the drivers abilty knowing how to take off and shift.
Or racing from a highway roll...........which I am sure nobody does
I will be going with a JUN UL flywheel and ATS 4.929 final.
I am sure the final will help more than the flywheel but I run from a roll on a pretty regular basis.
He who hits 9500 rpm first wins.
I will be going with a JUN UL flywheel and ATS 4.929 final.
I am sure the final will help more than the flywheel but I run from a roll on a pretty regular basis.
He who hits 9500 rpm first wins.
Lightweight flywheels will make you bog or burn off the line. Didn't help me overall. LW flywheels are for roadracing.
Lightweight flywheels will make you bog or burn off the line. Didn't help me overall. LW flywheels are for roadracing.
I have had no problems launching with the Toda flywheel. The only thing is that in traffic I will occasionally **** out because it's an continous stop and go.
I have had no problems launching with the Toda flywheel. The only thing is that in traffic I will occasionally **** out because it's an continous stop and go.
-i've done that before, on heavy traffic.
I have the CM flywheel and it didnt make a difference in launching at all. Well for me that is. With a good lsd and clutch you will have no problem. I just let it go at 7500, and it moves well.
light weight flywheel only feels like the car accerates harder, once the flywheel is spinning past 5000 rpm, like most all motor launches, it does not take much energy to keep it spinning, plus when you shift a heavier flywheel wont drop out of vtec like a light weight one, and it wont bog like other's have said, making the car easier to drive overall with out one, but for dragracing light weight flywheel not needed, Jason
Look at the tilton twin disc setup...its lighter than all light weight flywheels and single disc clutches. Also the lighter the rotating mass, the easier it is to get into gear. Sometimes on a FI car making good power with high revs makes it hard to go into gear on certain applications.
Im just gonna throw some information in here.
I have a lightweight flywheel and i love it.
someone said 7.5lbs is too light, if you think about it, your only reducing the entire rotating assembly about 30-40%
Gotta remember, clutches arent light. and they are attached to the flywheel.
I have a lightweight flywheel and i love it.
someone said 7.5lbs is too light, if you think about it, your only reducing the entire rotating assembly about 30-40%
Gotta remember, clutches arent light. and they are attached to the flywheel.
I did not mean that it hurts performance, just can make it harder to drive if you dont realise those 2 things, between bog and shifting, I run the clutchmasters twin disc love how it shifts, tilton, I wish I had one.I think twin discs shift easier because they realease better than heavy *** single pressure plates"clutch master sintered iron" that dont shift past 8000.When I used to run na and on the bottle, my sixties actually were better with a stock flywheel, than lightened, even though the car felt slower it had a better et.It is really up to personaly prefference, I also noticed a lot of clutch problems went away when I went back to stock flywheel, dont know if my exedy was warped, but I think stock disipates heat better because of mass, all this is in refference to stock or lightened flywheels not twin disc's,enough rambling it makes sense to me but not otheres as usual, Jason
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