CEL code 16
I am getting a CEL code 16 (fuel injectors). I am wondering what to do to fix it besides replacing the injectors. Will just replacing the injectors even fix the problem. I have some new injectors ordered but i would like to be able to do something in the meantime. any info/ help is appreciated
Also if anyone has a good hookup for body parts, I am needing a hood, a bumper, and both fenders.
Also if anyone has a good hookup for body parts, I am needing a hood, a bumper, and both fenders.
I assume this is a 92-95 Civic?
Serice manual indicates: Start by clearing the code (ECU Reset), starting the car and letting it idle and see if the CEL comes back right away. If it does, your going to need a digital multimeter to do some testing to find the problem.
Serice manual indicates: Start by clearing the code (ECU Reset), starting the car and letting it idle and see if the CEL comes back right away. If it does, your going to need a digital multimeter to do some testing to find the problem.
thanks for the reply. I have done the reset. the CEL comes right back on, and the car is in limp mode. I took the injectors out last night and they were filthy. so i cleaned them and hit them with carb cleaner hoping this may help. it didn't. like i said i have new injectors on the way, so if replacing them will fix the problem then i'll be ok with that.
BTW this car (1992 civic Si) had been sitting for 7 years and im going about the task of getting it back on the road.
could the fuel filter be causing this problem with the injectors?
i did notice when doing a spark plug reading that on was fairly wet. it was the third on from the distributor. also my plugs are very black (Running Rich) and i attribute this to running in limp mode, but maybe im wrong?
BTW this car (1992 civic Si) had been sitting for 7 years and im going about the task of getting it back on the road.
could the fuel filter be causing this problem with the injectors?
i did notice when doing a spark plug reading that on was fairly wet. it was the third on from the distributor. also my plugs are very black (Running Rich) and i attribute this to running in limp mode, but maybe im wrong?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jpelaston »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the reply. I have done the reset. the CEL comes right back on, and the car is in limp mode. I took the injectors out last night and they were filthy. so i cleaned them and hit them with carb cleaner hoping this may help. it didn't. like i said i have new injectors on the way, so if replacing them will fix the problem then i'll be ok with that.
BTW this car (1992 civic Si) had been sitting for 7 years and im going about the task of getting it back on the road.
could the fuel filter be causing this problem with the injectors?
i did notice when doing a spark plug reading that on was fairly wet. it was the third on from the distributor. also my plugs are very black (Running Rich) and i attribute this to running in limp mode, but maybe im wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the car has been sitting that long, I'd reccomend you change all the fluids, oil, trans, coolant, bleed the brakes with flush fluid, etc. That goes for the gas too, you need to get rid of all the old fuel in the tank, lines, filter etc. That will go along way to help eliminate some troubles from the car.
As for the single wet plug, it could be because you have a sticky or leaking injector for sure.
Installing new injectors may or may not solve your problem. There could be a problem with the feed side or ground side/ ECU that could be causing the troubles. Because the car sat though, I'd say your likely going to need new or cleaned injectors, hope this info helps.
BTW this car (1992 civic Si) had been sitting for 7 years and im going about the task of getting it back on the road.
could the fuel filter be causing this problem with the injectors?
i did notice when doing a spark plug reading that on was fairly wet. it was the third on from the distributor. also my plugs are very black (Running Rich) and i attribute this to running in limp mode, but maybe im wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the car has been sitting that long, I'd reccomend you change all the fluids, oil, trans, coolant, bleed the brakes with flush fluid, etc. That goes for the gas too, you need to get rid of all the old fuel in the tank, lines, filter etc. That will go along way to help eliminate some troubles from the car.
As for the single wet plug, it could be because you have a sticky or leaking injector for sure.
Installing new injectors may or may not solve your problem. There could be a problem with the feed side or ground side/ ECU that could be causing the troubles. Because the car sat though, I'd say your likely going to need new or cleaned injectors, hope this info helps.
I have already changed all the fluids and drained the gas tank. i also had to flush and bleed the clutch since it had lost all pressure.
I also have replaced the alternator, which had locked up, and the belt.
I am not the greatest with the ECU's and such, my experice is mostly with old SB chevy hot rods and the like, so I don't quite understand what you mean by the "feed side or ground side / ECU".
good stuff so far, and I appreciate it.
thanks
-Jeremy
I also have replaced the alternator, which had locked up, and the belt.
I am not the greatest with the ECU's and such, my experice is mostly with old SB chevy hot rods and the like, so I don't quite understand what you mean by the "feed side or ground side / ECU".
good stuff so far, and I appreciate it.
thanks
-Jeremy
Typically fuel injected cars (not all, but most port injected cars) have a feed side to the injecters which is usually just a common 12volt power source, all four injectors share the same power feed normally.
The ECU (PCM/ ECU/ ECM/ computer/ what ever you choose to call it) is what controls the injectors. Its as simple as the ECU grounding the injectors (grounded injectors are open) one at a time. The injectors do not share a common ground (again, typically). Each have their own individual wire leading to the pin leading inside the ECU (then the ECU has a single transistor/ driver that does the grounding)
Edit: I'm also more of an old time small block guy, but times are changing and fuel injection has alot going for it over the old days of carbs
The ECU (PCM/ ECU/ ECM/ computer/ what ever you choose to call it) is what controls the injectors. Its as simple as the ECU grounding the injectors (grounded injectors are open) one at a time. The injectors do not share a common ground (again, typically). Each have their own individual wire leading to the pin leading inside the ECU (then the ECU has a single transistor/ driver that does the grounding)
Edit: I'm also more of an old time small block guy, but times are changing and fuel injection has alot going for it over the old days of carbs
I see. So if these injectors do not fix the problem my next course of action should be testing the plugs and wiring coming off of the injector? The wiring appears (visually) to be in good shape, but i know that doesn't always mean it is.
I am guessing that the injectors are just gummed and varnished internally and probably sticking open which is causing the ECU to flash a CEL.
sorry to ask so many questions but the Haynes manual I bought is not in depth enough to give me answers to all of my questions.
thanks again!
I am guessing that the injectors are just gummed and varnished internally and probably sticking open which is causing the ECU to flash a CEL.
sorry to ask so many questions but the Haynes manual I bought is not in depth enough to give me answers to all of my questions.
thanks again!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jpelaston »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I see. So if these injectors do not fix the problem my next course of action should be testing the plugs and wiring coming off of the injector? The wiring appears (visually) to be in good shape, but i know that doesn't always mean it is.
I am guessing that the injectors are just gummed and varnished internally and probably sticking open which is causing the ECU to flash a CEL.
sorry to ask so many questions but the Haynes manual I bought is not in depth enough to give me answers to all of my questions.
thanks again!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, if the new injectors don't get it going, then you should start by looking at the power/ ground circuits. The power should be a 12v signal and each injector should have the same colored wire for the + feed. The ground wire should be different for each one.
If the car will start and run, I would check the ground side first (this will show you that the ECU is indeed switching each off and on). If it won't start and run, I would look at the + feed side first (its highly unlikely all four injectors ground sides would go bad at once [unless your ECU is broken])
Don't forget to reset the ECU after you stick the new injectors in.
I am guessing that the injectors are just gummed and varnished internally and probably sticking open which is causing the ECU to flash a CEL.
sorry to ask so many questions but the Haynes manual I bought is not in depth enough to give me answers to all of my questions.
thanks again!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, if the new injectors don't get it going, then you should start by looking at the power/ ground circuits. The power should be a 12v signal and each injector should have the same colored wire for the + feed. The ground wire should be different for each one.
If the car will start and run, I would check the ground side first (this will show you that the ECU is indeed switching each off and on). If it won't start and run, I would look at the + feed side first (its highly unlikely all four injectors ground sides would go bad at once [unless your ECU is broken])
Don't forget to reset the ECU after you stick the new injectors in.
Yes the car will start and run... and seems to idle smoothly. only when I try to give it more gas it seems to want to miss a little ( kind of bog like it is too rich) and then it will only rev to 3500 RPM and just bounces off of there.
Another question, Do you think that possibly the TPS could be bad and cause the ECU to throw that code or would that be a different code altogether?
Another question, Do you think that possibly the TPS could be bad and cause the ECU to throw that code or would that be a different code altogether?
The TPS should have its own CEL code.
Usually what happens to that though, the TPS will get dead spots in it and cause a instant lean condition and the car will misfire and not bog like it would when rich. If you had a lab scope you could easily do a sweep of the TPS and see whats going on with it. You can also check the voltage. There should be threee wires on it.
There should be a 5v reference signal going in, a ground wire, and a changing signal that will vary as you move the throttle open and closed. In the closed position, I believe it should read .5v and WOT should read 4.5v.
Think of it like, you primarily drive the car at 40mph, well the contact inside the TPS would slowly wear away because its always riding on the same area in that position. Then one day you go to get on the freeway and the car starts jerking and hesitating in the 40mph range but picks up and drives fine at highway speeds.
The TPS main function is to either instantly cut fuel (your at WOT and let off the gas) or to instantly add fuel (car is idleing and you floor it)
Usually what happens to that though, the TPS will get dead spots in it and cause a instant lean condition and the car will misfire and not bog like it would when rich. If you had a lab scope you could easily do a sweep of the TPS and see whats going on with it. You can also check the voltage. There should be threee wires on it.
There should be a 5v reference signal going in, a ground wire, and a changing signal that will vary as you move the throttle open and closed. In the closed position, I believe it should read .5v and WOT should read 4.5v.
Think of it like, you primarily drive the car at 40mph, well the contact inside the TPS would slowly wear away because its always riding on the same area in that position. Then one day you go to get on the freeway and the car starts jerking and hesitating in the 40mph range but picks up and drives fine at highway speeds.
The TPS main function is to either instantly cut fuel (your at WOT and let off the gas) or to instantly add fuel (car is idleing and you floor it)
Thats what I thought. I guess I will just install my new fuel filter and then wait for the new injectors to be delivered and replace them. I'm sure I can get it going. It was running fine when it was parked, so I know its not a catastrophic failure of any type.
Thanks for all your help
-Jeremy
Thanks for all your help
-Jeremy
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