Alright guys, for the past few days I've been trying to adjust my idle to get it where I want it, but my idle screw is getting chipped while i try to turn it with a flat screw driver and i cant adjust it anymore nor can even take it out to replace it, i really dont want to replace the whole throttle body....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RDAYA0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright guys, for the past few days I've been trying to adjust my idle to get it where I want it, but my idle screw is getting chipped while i try to turn it with a flat screw driver and i cant adjust it anymore nor can even take it out to replace it, i really dont want to replace the whole throttle body....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you sure the screw its self is chipping? Usually in the groove there is gasket maker that causes it hard to turn, but you can scrape it off and get a bigger flat head in there and turn it.

 

use a... sharper flathead

sounds dumb, but try it. You want it to be wider with a very narrow tip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you sure the screw its self is chipping? Usually in the groove there is gasket maker that causes it hard to turn, but you can scrape it off and get a bigger flat head in there and turn it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2, this coating on top itself will chip when you break its bond. If the top of the screw itself is chipped though, use a extractor bit to get it out.

 

yeah the top of the screw itself is chipped so i cannot adjust to let anymore air in......i really dont wanna take it out with a extractor bit because thats destroying the screw right? i was at the junkyard today and those idle screws are a bitch to take out...ill try with different size flat head screw drivers and we'll see how that goes.....would the dealership sell idle screws? if they do and i can go pick a few up then i can go ahead and take it out with a extractor....let me know guys,, thanks for the help i love ht haha

 

Anyone know exactly how far in the max would be when turning the idle screw?

BTW...Clockwise = decrease in idle speed right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RDAYA0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright guys, for the past few days I've been trying to adjust my idle to get it where I want it, but my idle screw is getting chipped while i try to turn it with a flat screw driver and i cant adjust it anymore nor can even take it out to replace it, i really dont want to replace the whole throttle body....</TD></TR></TABLE>

What I did was gently tap the handle of the flathead with a hammer so you can make the groove a bit deeper.
That way you not chipping at the screw.
The wider the flathead the better.

 

your idle will not change by just turning the idle screw unless you unplug the IACV.

1. start the car
2. disconnect the IACV from wire harness (CEL will come on)
3. turn idle screw to set the idle (usually 700-750rpms)
4. reconnect the IACV to the wire harness
5. make sure idle is where you want it otherwise go back to step 2
6. turn off car, reset the ecu
7. start the car up and enjoy


Modified by ejprimo at 10:35 PM 5/1/2008

 

yeah clockwise = lower idle
counterclockwise = up idle

yeah i was going at it with a fairly smaller flat head........i have this huge *** one that looks perfect to use on that damn idle screw....ill try it tommorow morning i ran into another problem my windshield is cracked cuz my dumb brother elbowed it hard...do i have to replace the whole windshield or can i just get the crack fixed i had a chip that i didnt want to get large as well beside the crack that iw as meaning to go get fixed....but thats a good idea hammering in the screwdriver to get the groove deeper plus i think it'll brake that damn loctite seal? haha thanks dude

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejprimo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your idle will not change by just turning the idle screw unless you unplug the IACV.

1. start the car
2. disconnect the IACV from wire harness (CEL will come on)
3. turn idle screw to set the idle (usually 700-750rpms)
4. reconnect the IACV to the wire harness
5. make sure idle is where you want it otherwise go back to step 2
6. turn off car, reset the ecu
7. start the car up and enjoy </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah thats what exactly i do lol, the idle screw is blocking me with its fatass thats all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejprimo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your idle will not change by just turning the idle screw unless you unplug the IACV.

1. start the car
2. disconnect the IACV from wire harness (CEL will come on)
3. turn idle screw to set the idle (usually 700-750rpms)
4. reconnect the IACV to the wire harness
5. make sure idle is where you want it otherwise go back to step 2
6. turn off car, reset the ecu
7. start the car up and enjoy </TD></TR></TABLE>

I second that, but I always start the car up at normal operating temperature, Turn the idle screw a little. Shut the car off.. Pull the 7.5amp backup fuse (engine bay fusebox) for 30 seconds to reset the idle..

Start the engine, fixed idle..

Straight from my helms manual

 

Just my luck. I have the backup 7.5 fuse missing.

Can I unplug the battery to reset?

PS....I need a Helms I guess. My Haynes doesn't say that. =X

 

Would get that 7.5a fuse asap from junker or something couple cents! if its missing and ur reseting ecu by battery terminal ecu is still confused cuz of that fuse....make sure u have everything intact

 

Are Idle Screws available to order at dealership you think? it's like 1 in the morning so im just wondering i really cant wait to call them tomorrow when i wake up

 

i always disconnect the negative battery cable for a min to reset my ecu.

 

Will do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejprimo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i always disconnect the negative battery cable for a min to reset my ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that works also

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaWrZie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just my luck. I have the backup 7.5 fuse missing.

Can I unplug the battery to reset?

PS....I need a Helms I guess. My Haynes doesn't say that. =X</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just realized i have the haynes manual also.. (96-98 civic and 94-98 integra)

go to chapter 1 page 28 (idle speed check and adjustment)

It says on 1998 model integras and 1998 model civic to disconnect the IACV connector..then start the car adjust the idle and then pull the 7.5 amp fuse and it will clear all trouble codes...

and the civic with d16y5 engines need to disconnect the evap purge solenoid.. when adjusting engine idle speed.

Let the engine warm up to operating temperature..

Make slow turns using 1/4 increment turns only... (clock wise lowers, counter clock wise raises)

Turn off the engine and pull the 7.5 amp fuse for 10 seconds..

Start the car and let the idle stabilize for 60 seconds..

Then adjust accordingly.

Learn something new every day