So I finally completed my build and went to dyno yesterday. Well right from the get go there was a slight problem. On every pass right around 7000rpm it would studder. We tried another coil, new plugs, lowered the gap, plug wire, pulled the pills out of the 2 step, etc. The setup is MSD 6al w/Accel coil with a 2 step and a rpm activated switch (vtec switch) with a full FAST standalone. Everything looked great as far as timing and air fuels go. The whole pass looked awesome other then the breakup spot. So I guessed and changed out the pill in the RPM switch and it cleared up for 2 passes, the car run flawlessy. Well it went right back to its old ways the remaining passes until we finally gave up and quit. My question is if the ignition box was going out on me would it do it consistently on the same rpm? If you guys don't think so then any other suggestions would be great but for now I am assuming its the MSD box. One good thing is the car was making 300hp on 12psi at 6-6.5rpm before the breakup started messing with it.


Modified by Ntense90crxsi at 1:11 PM 4/14/2008

 

I had the same problem with my setup and the issue happened worse if I increased the pressure. I gave up too on the dyno and messed around with it for the next few weeks.

My solution:
I yanked that MSD 6A out and wired it all up still using the blaster SS coil. It still works to this day (+25K miles) no problems. Try taking out the MSD 6AL and wiring the ignitor directly to the coil

 

I would but I don't have the stock ignitor in the dizzy. What is the most hp you could run with a stock distributor or with a stock distributor with a after coil?

 

how old is your cap and rotor ? plug wires ?

 

Plugs and Wires we switched out for new ones with no success. I also switched to a new coil and nothing really helped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaveF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how old is your cap and rotor ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

i am a firm believer in the m&w ignition boxes...... it pretty much eliminates all variables associated with ignition misfires and such. you get to completely remove both the factory coil and most importantly the ignitor (which 99 out of 100 times is the culprit of misfires, especially in high horsepower / high boost cars)


also, how is the ignition wired with the fast system your using? is it a plug and play harness? ive experienced ignition problems when people try to make their own engine harness's, and do not properly shield the distributor wiring.

the non digital msd boxes do not belong in our engine bays IMO......the digital ones seem to do better, but you still have the reliability issues with the factory ignitor. m&w fixes all problems though

 

there is no ignitor

 

no ignitor with fast? ive never used one

 

yea, it just gets the cam/crank sensor or will run off the crank sensor alone (bank to bank)

the fast/speedpro ecu output "points" to the white wire on the msd stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ntense90crxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would but I don't have the stock ignitor in the dizzy. What is the most hp you could run with a stock distributor or with a stock distributor with a after coil?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have heard of over 700+whp on a stock dizzy/coil. I had that 6A/Blaster SS **** on my car and I pulled it off because I was having the same problem as you, and got tuned on an OEM Dizzy/Coil with no problems.

 

I hate to say it, since I've used MSD 6's in quite a few cars over the years but EVERY Honda I've had on the dyno with a MSD 6/6AL box in it had pretty much the exact same issue.

 

Lol, well I can see by this post the 6a boxes really don't do the job for hondas. Yea the FAST system doesn't use a ignitor. Well I would go back to a stock dizzy but the only thing I would lose that I really need is the two step. I am thinking about ordering a MSD digital SCI box, MSD Blaster coil and a set of the MSD 8.5mm plug wires to solve these issues, keep the 2 step and have quite a easy installation. What do you guys think?

 

I can't offer any real-world experience, since I haven't tried either of these suggestions:

1. Look into one of MSD's billet distributors. There's a huge thread on here discussing them, but I haven't been through it.
2. Use one of the snazzy cam-trigger setups from T1 Race Development.

Again, I haven't done any of my own testing but I have an inkling the spark produced by the MSD setups wreak EMI-induced havoc on the stock sensor pickups. Either option should be a step in the right direction, and should be cheaper than scrapping the hardware you've got and starting over.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ntense90crxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lol, well I can see by this post the 6a boxes really don't do the job for hondas. Yea the FAST system doesn't use a ignitor. Well I would go back to a stock dizzy but the only thing I would lose that I really need is the two step. I am thinking about ordering a MSD digital SCI box, MSD Blaster coil and a set of the MSD 8.5mm plug wires to solve these issues, keep the 2 step and have quite a easy installation. What do you guys think?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would get the Digital 6 or 7 with the proper matching coil, or even better the MW setup.

 

your problem sounds just like what ive had happen on 3 different msd boxes on 3 different cars so far. its in the limiter plug on the box itself. after too many high rpm visits they seem to burn up. take your window switch out of the limiter plug on the box (if you can) and run it with nothing in there, no rev limit pill, nothing. it should clear the problem up but then you dont have a limiter or your window switch.

im with joe, msd boxes based off the 6 series (SCI INCLUDED) just cant handle the constant high rpms that hondas produce.

 

I actually tried pulling the pills out of the 2 step on the dyno to try and solve this problem so there was no limit but it still had the same issue. The two step box was still installed but did not have any pills in it so it shouldn't of affected it. Has anyone had any good luck with the Digital SCI Plus box?

 

The RPM activated switch shouldn't have any effect on things because the only thing it sees from the box is the rpm signal that is feeding it and my tach which has never jumped around at all.

 

sci box is junk

 

I read somewhere the SCI boxes are internally identical to the normal analog boxes just smaller in dimension, any truth in that?

 

Where can I buy the MW ignition systems? What do you guys think of Crane?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ntense90crxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where can I buy the MW ignition systems? </TD></TR></TABLE>

tony1 has them on his site

 

http://www.t1raceparts.com/T1_...t.htm