my just moved to las vegas my car is still currently in pennslyvania so i know only a little of what happens. A buddy of mine was driving the car about once a week so it didnt sit all winter. made a noise he brought it to a mechanic. mechanic says comp in cyl 1 is between 40-60 so i assume rings but the mechanic says he thinks my pistons cracked or my head is cracked. is there a sure fire way to tell if the pistions is cracked with out pulling the head or oil pan. also if i am going to replace the rings(or piston) on cyl 1 should i just do all 4 cyls he said it ran good comp across the rest or should i leave the other syls alone?

 

Leakdown test. With results that low I think you have something damaged as well... something more severe then just "rings".

 

With compression that low you should just take the head off to determine the problem and you'll be one step closer to fixing the problem.

I had 90 psi in a cylinder number 3 of b16a. It turned out the piston ring land was cracked.

 

you think my head could be cracked or just the piston the head is worked pnp and type s cams should i take to machine shop tocheck valves

also i im gunna be replacing one piston should i replace them all also i planned on going turbo but i know na is more reliable if i plan to build for 300whp you think i should go na or turbo (i already have a turbo kit) if that helps in teh descion also i spoke to jeff evans awhile back he said i could build 300 in an h22 on stock internals and be reliable i know he knows his **** so just your opinions on the cheapest easiest way to hit 300 whp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dapaur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you think my head could be cracked or just the piston the head is worked pnp and type s cams should i take to machine shop tocheck valves

also i im gunna be replacing one piston should i replace them all also i planned on going turbo but i know na is more reliable if i plan to build for 300whp you think i should go na or turbo (i already have a turbo kit) if that helps in teh descion also i spoke to jeff evans awhile back he said i could build 300 in an h22 on stock internals and be reliable i know he knows his **** so just your opinions on the cheapest easiest way to hit 300 whp</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lets not turn this thread into another "what do I need to make xxx amount of hp". We also don't need to start the great turbo vs all motor debate...

I HIGHLY doubt your head is cracked. You most likely have damaged ring lands as someone has already mentioned. You can sit here all day long and ask people "Do you think I broke xxxx or yyyy?" but its not going to solve anything or get you anywhere. You know you have a problem, you need to tear down and see what it is. Not trying to be a dick, but guessing and playing 20 questions won't fix your problem.

You need to decide for yourself what route you want to take. People here shouldn't be the ones you base your choice on. There are too many different POV's on this subject anyways. Weigh your options, determine your goals, then make a choice. If you are planning on boosting, I would replace all the pistons at this time. Its going to save you money in the long run over a rebuild later on. If you are planning on staying NA then replace only the damaged items and carry on.

 

sorry but i was just asking questions only cause i dont want to just buy new rings and fly out there and my heads cracked im only guna have a limited amount of time on it maybe ill just buy from somewhere that takes returns and how about i rephrase can i make 300 whp with touching the block just pistons head cams etc is it an acheaviable goal or am i reaching for the stars

 

^ i say your reaching for the stars on that one, cause reliability seems like a big deal to you and unless you build your bottom end then it's not going to be reliable, and sure it can be done anyone will tell you that but you got to think about the money your going to spend if ur block takes a dump or a bearing, or valves, your build is going to be based on wat you want, so choose wisely

so do you have anyone in p.a. still? that can do you a favor and run a leak down test?

and also a h22 is a interferance engine so i dont know if a bent valve could have did all that damage and low the c/r that low ???

 

ill build the bottom end with new pistons and rods but can i make 300 whp with out sleeving and boring i know ppl say to bore .5 to you know you have a true circle before you build but if i just build stock blockwith hc pistons and stronger rods bigger cams and bigger intake mani will it be somewhat acheable this is also my daily driver

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dapaur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ill build the bottom end with new pistons and rods but can i make 300 whp with out sleeving and boring i know ppl say to bore .5 to you know you have a true circle before you build but if i just build stock blockwith hc pistons and stronger rods bigger cams and bigger intake mani will it be somewhat acheable this is also my daily driver</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will need to take apart your engine and measure. I can't tell you if the cylinder are egg shapped, scored, worn beyond the service limit, etc. If its within spec and doesn't have any of the above mentioned problems, then yes... you could just put in the pistons.

 

but if i got high comp pistons will i hit 300

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dapaur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but if i got high comp pistons will i hit 300</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude. This whole post is getting rediculous. This needs to END.