can you simply loop the heater hose that comes out of the bottom of the head under the distributor, with the hose connection on the t-stat housing? normally those lines run to and from the heater core but since I removed all that stuff I have two open coolant connections. I assume you can but Im not sure if it will just increase temps or anything like that.

 

I just capped mine up with some coolant plugs. I haven't had any issues with it for several years now. This is on a track only car too. On a street car I'd say it might be safer to just loop a hose from the head to the thermostat housing.

 

where did you get the caps from? i dont think ive ever seen caps big enough to fit those connections. id rather cap if possible, one less hose to worry about.

 

I got them locally at a NAPA. Let me see if I can find you a picture or a link.

I can't seem to find them right now, maybe I'm not using the correct name to search. But they look like a larger vacuum cap, but made out of rubber.


Modified by Redline130 at 7:31 PM 4/4/2008

 

Ive used the smaller vacuum caps before but they tend to become brittle and crack. Have you had to replace the larger coolant caps or have they held up well? Ill search around and see what I can find. Thanks

 

I've had mine capped off for a while without issue. And this is in an engine bay that can get pretty hot.

They came in a pack with several different size caps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive used the smaller vacuum caps before but they tend to become brittle and crack. Have you had to replace the larger coolant caps or have they held up well? Ill search around and see what I can find. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, these are thicker rubber caps. I replace them once a year, but just for peace of mind. They are actually still in good condition.

 

Most cost-effective way to get it done is cap them off.

Alternatively, you can use a LS thermostat housing, and a B16 waterpipe. The LS housing has only one outlet, and the B16 waterpipe has one nipple for a return from the IACV.

Take the factory fitting from the side of the head, cut off the nipple, and weld a slug in.

Cheap to do if you have access to some spare parts, and no chance of a leak from wear/tear on a rubber piece.