so i just finished dropping in a 99 jdm h22 in my 92 prelude si. its running in limp mode. i pulled these codes:

7-throttle position sensor
21-vtec solenoid
23-knock sensor
41-heated oxygen sensor

can someone verify that these codes/problems are right and if you know how to fix them. thanks guys

 

Did you properly upgrade from obd-1 to obd-2? What ECU are you running? What engine harness?

Gotta post up all the build info so we can help you out.

 

i know. sorry bout that.
i am running the h22 ecu that came with the motor.
im also running the jdm h22 engine harness.
everything backwards. probably why the sensors are acting up.
hope this helps.
also, since its an obd1 car with and obd2 motor, harness, and ecu. do i use 4th gen lude codes or 5th gen lude ones?
thanks

 

are you sure everything is plugged in correctly?

 

You go by the codes for the car that the ecu came from...because it's the ecu that gives the codes.

I'm not sure exactly which harness you're supposed to use, or the exact mods you need to do to make the obd-2 motor and ecu work.

From the sounds of it, some wiring may not be correct. I'd imagine you should have to do some re-wiring at the ecu harness plugs to make everything work properly...that ecu harness wasn't meant for obd2 vtec motor/ecu/engine harness.

 

pretty sure i plugged everything up right. the jdm engine harness wires up weird. i had to extend the alternator wires because it was way too short. i actually had to extend a couple plugs because they were too short. damn japan. why you gotta be backwards..lol
even my jdm gauge cluster is killin me.. cant wire that up.

is there a site that shows all the plugs/wire colors so that i know which plug is for what sensor. because asking because some plugs fit other sensors. may not be the right one but it still fits.
thanks for your help

 

You can use this. It will take some work to read the pins off the ECU, but this should help you Clicky

Okay just curious, did you ever find out what was tearing your T-Belt off the gears

 

no. i took the timing belt off. checked the tensioner, water pump, and crank. everything was good. put the belt back on. centered the timing belt. started the car. after a while of running it moved out a little but stays there. its fine. drove around the neighborhood and it stayed where it was before. if you look at it from the front of the car without the top timing belt cover on, you can see the cam gear on the left side of the belt but you cant see it on the right side. but it wont come off the gears. now to get it out of limp mode. lol

 

k check this out. its pretty weird.
hmotorsonline told me this was a 93-96 jdm h22a
before i did my manual tensioner conversion i bought all the necessary parts.
i bought a 96 prelude si vtec water pump. i didnt fit onto my motor.
i took my old one back with me and they said thats a 97-01 h22 water pump.
i just checked my ecu. its a p13. last time i checked a p13 is an obd1 ecu.
is there any way i can check on the motor itself the year, cuz i remember there is stamps on the exhaiust side of the head. dont know what they mean but im sure it tells you what year it is.
maybe i need an obd1 to obd2 piggyback and the obd2 h22 ecu??
any comments?

 

Aren't the OBD-2 h22's blue top?

If you got an obd-1 h22a...the only custom wiring you need to do is from your 2 VTEC plugs to the ecu harness...everything else should hook right up except your stock fuel line, but you can use your h23a fuel rail to solve this problem. You must use your h23 engine harness...using the h22a engine harness is a world of headaches and re-wiring, not worth the trouble.

 

your right about the fuel rail. i had to use my h23 one.
as for the engine harness. i tried using the h23 one but could never get the motor started. once i plug the h22 harness. it started right up. its just in limp mode.

 

What happened exactly when the h23 harness was used? Did the motor turn over without spark or fuel?

If so...you forgot to connect the ground from the engine harness to the thermostat housing. I did this, and had all sorts of headaches...hooked it up, car ran like a top.

The usdm obd-1 h23 engine harness is 100% plug and play on the obd-1 jdm h22a...the only difference is the h23a harness doesn't have the 3 wires needed to wire up your VTEC solenoid and VTEC oil switch...which is super easy to do yourself. Just gotta make sure all your grounds are hooked up properly...and the car should run fine, even without vtec hooked up(will rev limit at 6500 and give you a VTEC CEL...but car will run and drive fine). With VTEC wiring hooked up, car will run and drive at 100% given everything was connected properly and nothing is broken/bad. The JDM VTEC ecu would have to be used, naturally, because the usdm p13 will run the motor lean...and the usdm p14 will run limp mode due to it not knowing what vtec is.

 

thanks for the info. very helpful.
i just pulled out my h23 engine harness. ill try hook that up tomorrow.
when i had the h23 harness in, the car would turn over but woudnt get spark.
i was looking at my helms to see exactly which plug goes where. trying to get wire colors so i dont wire up the motor wrong, but i cant find any detailed info like that.

 

Dude your best bet here is to just run new wires from your ECU to what ever CEL codes are present. Rewire these

7-throttle position sensor
21-vtec solenoid
23-knock sensor
41-heated oxygen sensor

Now the 96 model cars are the year all motors went OBD2.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude your best bet here is to just run new wires from your ECU to what ever CEL codes are present. Rewire these

7-throttle position sensor
21-vtec solenoid
23-knock sensor
41-heated oxygen sensor

Now the 96 model cars are the year all motors went OBD2.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats just asking for more problems.

do you have a factory service manual or a helms?

 

I dont understand how its asking for more issues. As long as proper connections are made, it should work out 100 percent okay.

Thats what I do. Its easier than pulling and tugging at a crappy wire harness that is probally correded somewhere.

 

If he installs the h23 harness...starting at the alternator...it's all self explanatory. Honda made those pigtails and plugs just about long enough to reach their destinations, it's *almost* impossible to hook something up wrong. Start at the alternator, over the valve cover, down the back of the motor, across the back of the motor going under the intake manifold plugging things in as he goes.

If he starts making his own wiring, bypassing half of the engine harness wiring, it's going to end in a bunch of problems and headaches unless he knows the whole wiring system like the back of his hand. Much more work than necessary, especially when he's got a harness ready to install without modification.

 

k i tried hooking up my h23 engine harness today. i do hook it up from the alternator but as i tried before, it doesnt start. the starter turns but no spark.
i double checked all the grounds. with the h23 harness it doesnt start. once i plug up the jdm h22 harness it starts right up but in limp mode.

 

Well if it's an obd-1 h22a...it will start with that harness if the harness is installed correctly. Make sure the little black ground is connected to the thermostat housing.

The only difference between h23 and h22 is pretty much just the head...so the harness will work.

EDIT: What distributor are you using? the h23 distributor+external coil OR the h22 internal coil distributor? If you're trying to use the h22 internal coil distributor...you need to insert a 20a fuse into the h23a engine harness plug that was meant for the external coil(3 wires, insert fuse in plug so it connects the yellow/black wire with the yellow wire...blue is unused). The h22a's engine harness doesn't have this external coil plug due to its internal coil dizzy.

 

yes i am using the h22 dizzy. i noticed that when i was wiring up the h23 harness. the dizzy wires dont match. the h23 harness has a blue wire, the h22 harness does not. also the h22 dizzy wire is yellow/black but the h23 dizzy plug is just yellow. that whole fuse thing you told me to do, im kinda confused. what do you want me to try?
also does it make a difference that my h23 harness is originally automatic? i converted to manual when i swapped motors.
let me know about the dizzy wires, im lost. but i think that will work.
thanks for all the help.

 

Here is a link on how to do a h22a dizzy
Clicky

Something in your car obviously is not wired up right. And you can plug something into the wrong spot with the wire harness. I had my Fuel Injectors plugged into my ABS when I first did my swap back in Novemeber

 

I wasn't aware that the plugs for the fuel injectors fit anything else on the car.

The harness being made for an automatic...the only difference I can think of is those two wires that connect to the top of the transmission next to the starter...I don't remember what they are for, or if the auto tranny has them. Possibly reverse light?

And for the h22a fix...the plug on the h23a engine harness that is supposed to connect to the h23a external coil...shove a fuse into the plug so it's crossing yellow/black wire with yellow wire. Do not do anything with the 3rd hole(blue).

Again...make sure the thermostat housing ground is connected. Not having this connected, with a p13 ecu, will cause constant CEL, no spark, no fuel pump 2second cycle when key is turned to on position...but car will still turn over.

 

so i just finished re wiring my prelude. i took out the jdm h22 engine harness and put in the usdm h23 harness. i also put the 20A fuse in the harness plug like you guys said. the car starts! still seems in limp mode but its the first time i got it started with the h23 harness.
again its throwing 6,7,10,21.
i know its throwing a 21 because i never wired and repinned for vtec.
but dont know why it would be throwing the other 3. im sure i hooked up the harness correctly.
so sick of limp mode. im about to take it in to my local race shop.