I just got a set of used Spoon Twin Block Calipers for my car. They did not come with a manual, so I just wanted to know a few things:
1) Does anyone have a scanned copy of the manual/installation instructions that they could send me or does anyone have a link of where I could find it on line?

2) What are the caliper bolt tightening specs? OEM steel brackets is 80ft/lbs, but these are aluminum. Is there a different torque spec?

3) My calipers did not come with the spoon bolts or spacers. Can I use the OEM honda Bolts? Do I need to use washers if I use the OEM Bolts?

4) Could someone please confirm that I just need to take out the 2 black retaining bolts and slide in the pads from the top. Pads don't need to be attached anywhere else.

5) Any other issues that I should look for when putting them on?

Thanks.

 

I own twinblocks but I have worked on the monoblocks on a couple of S2ks....

1) sorry don't have access to that.

2) We've used the stock torque specs without any issues. Twinblocks as you might know, bolt directly to their respective aluminum bodies

3) OEM bolts are fine. You may or may not need washers after you mount them (I've been told it's just for centering the caliper). IIRC, the S2ks I've worked on DID have them.

4) yes, just take out the black retaining bolts and the pull the pads

5) I like coating those retaining bolts in copper anti-seize - esp. after snapping one of mine when it seized

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3) OEM bolts are fine. You may or may not need washers after you mount them (I've been told it's just for centering the caliper). IIRC, the S2ks I've worked on DID have them.

5) I like coating those retaining bolts in copper anti-seize - esp. after snapping one of mine when it seized </TD></TR></TABLE>

My answers are a lil different from RA's.

3) I think the bolts provided by Spoon are slightly longer. The washers are needed to center the calipers relative to the rotor.

5) Agree 101%!!

 

FWIW, I've mixed up the bolts on my twinblocks and stock calipers and that was probably why I didn't use the washers the 2nd time around when I reinstalled them.

It was still braking fine at the track and on the street.... but I will admit if you can get the proper hardware, it's probably best that you do...these are brakes after all

 

thanks RA and Wai.

So the washers that I saw in some of the pictures go between the spindle and the Caliper. An idea how thick they are? I currently have RL 11.8" rotors on the car so I already have some washers and extended bolts if they end up being needed (just not sure if they are the right thickness). I will try to center the caliper on the rotor as well as posible and will torque to 80ft lbs (scary on aluminum!)...

THanks for the heads up on using anti seize on the retaining bolts!

 

I have instructions but no scanner

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highroller54 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have instructions but no scanner</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you have a digital camera?

GPNY, I can't say for certain what the thickness of the washers are, but if I had to make a bland comparison, I'd say it would be the same thickness of the OEM metal washer on the oil pan drain plug - as in the one that came NEW from the factory.

 

A hi res pic with a digital camera will do the trick. If you could do that, it would be great.
I could PM you my address.

 

for the '98+ ITR, the manual states to put the washer with the bolt (like how you would use a lock-washer). this way, the caliper sits flush with the knucle where it bolts onto.

hope that makes sense. as for the pads, i'm using stock ITR pads and once i shaved off the squealer piece, i was actually able to slide the pads in from the bottom side (closest to the hat of the rotor) without the need to remove the 2 top retaining bolts/rods. this was with the caliper off of course

 

I can scan all the original paper/manuals if you guys will find it useful. Although some of it is in Japanese.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GPNY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A hi res pic with a digital camera will do the trick. If you could do that, it would be great.
I could PM you my address.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can do that and I can measure the shims to, pm if if you need it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mashimaro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for the '98+ ITR, the manual states to put the washer with the bolt (like how you would use a lock-washer). this way, the caliper sits flush with the knucle where it bolts onto.

hope that makes sense. as for the pads, i'm using stock ITR pads and once i shaved off the squealer piece, i was actually able to slide the pads in from the bottom side (closest to the hat of the rotor) without the need to remove the 2 top retaining bolts/rods. this was with the caliper off of course </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey good piece of advice on the ITR pads and removing the squealer....I totally forgot about that! I too, use the stock pads on the street - they're more than enough

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can scan all the original paper/manuals if you guys will find it useful. Although some of it is in Japanese. </TD></TR></TABLE>

YES !!! please

 

http://www.spoon.jp/dl/45020-EK9-G00_EG.pdf