building a 91 crx... b18b, weisco pistons and eagle rods, ls head ported and polished, springs and retainers, cams, the whole nine yards...
the question lies where... i dont have much room in the crx... im only looking to get approx. 250-300whp... anyone have any pointers for any specific turbo setups?
i was told that if i wanted to go with a slightly bigger turbo, i'd have to go with a shorty rad and a different sub frame and use traction bars to get some room in there...
any suggestions???

 

yep you will have to use the EG rad and traction bars for room enuff to fit it.
i have already been thru this. traction bars to fit down pipe, and eg rad to have a place for the turbo...

 

U SEE ALOT OF RAMHORN STYLES HAVE TO CUT THE RADATIOR SUPPORT TO FIT THE WASTEGATE.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrThicky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">building a 91 crx... b18b, weisco pistons and eagle rods, ls head ported and polished, springs and retainers, cams, the whole nine yards...
the question lies where... i dont have much room in the crx... im only looking to get approx. 250-300whp... anyone have any pointers for any specific turbo setups?
i was told that if i wanted to go with a slightly bigger turbo, i'd have to go with a shorty rad and a different sub frame and use traction bars to get some room in there...
any suggestions??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
when I used to have my crx..I ended up using the full-race traction bars with a half sized PWR radiator.

 

A traction bar or aftermarket crossmember along with a 92-00 Civic 1/2 sized radiator will allow for the majority of the manifold designs to fit without any major problems. We've done logs, mini rams and ramhorns w/ 3" downpipes on the CRX w/ no problems.
(Innovative crossmember)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93supercoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">U SEE ALOT OF RAMHORN STYLES HAVE TO CUT THE RADATIOR SUPPORT TO FIT THE WASTEGATE.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true, we are starting to produce more and more custom manifolds that fit the customers needs more. Here is an example, the turbo was also placed super close to the block ( per customers request ) so it would clear everything else.





A half radiator would be needed, a 3 inch downpipe can fit with the stock crossmember but the front engine mount has to be lost, or you can do some kind of pie cuts. The best setup to keep a stock crossmember in there is to use a log, this way you can put the turbo all the way to the driver side. The other thing to keep in mind is, 5 bolt turbos and 4 bolt turbos ( exhaust housing ) sit differently. The four bolt puts the turbo out farther.

You can also mount an eg civic radiator into this chassis with the stock crossmember, here is a car we did. We have another one in the shop where we mounted this radiator onto the stock crossmember

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A half radiator would be needed, a 3 inch downpipe can fit with the stock crossmember but the front engine mount has to be lost, or you can do some kind of pie cuts.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
pic?....you sure you don't have to cut up the stock crossmember to fit the 3" DP.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
pic?....you sure you don't have to cut up the stock crossmember to fit the 3" DP.</TD></TR></TABLE>He fit a 2.5 inch downpipe on my setup with plenty of room to spare for a 3 inch without having to cut the subframe. The problem on my setup was that the 3 inch pipe would have hit my radiator because the turbo was so far forward.

edit: this was on a d series though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILcrxsi1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He fit a 2.5 inch downpipe on my setup with plenty of room to spare for a 3 inch without having to cut the subframe. The problem on my setup was that the 3 inch pipe would have hit my radiator because the turbo was so far forward.

edit: this was on a d series though</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, I was commenting as if it were for a b-series

 

i have a custom rams horn, custom front crossmember, custom motor mounts, hot side piping through the framrail, t3/to4x turbocharger, 3in downpipe, and factory style radiator. this is the only pic i have right now. my turbo sits about 1/8 in from the block and i have about 3/4 in from the compressor housing to the radiator. also i have two 12in slim fans in front of the radiator

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry, I was commenting as if it were for a b-series</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was referring to a d, we have fit a 3 inch in a da before, crossmember untouched. In an ef it would be close, but I'm sure you can. If anything the small little lip on the crossmember might have to be cut.

I don't have a b series in an ef in the shop or else I would tell you a for sure answer on that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BadWay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i have a custom rams horn, custom front crossmember, custom motor mounts, hot side piping through the framrail, t3/to4x turbocharger, 3in downpipe, and factory style radiator. this is the only pic i have right now. my turbo sits about 1/8 in from the block and i have about 3/4 in from the compressor housing to the radiator. also i have two 12in slim fans in front of the radiator</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anything is possible and your pictures prove it, the only issue I have is that turbo has to be sitting on that radiator, pretty much making that part of the radiator useless unless a fan was continuing blowing.

 

u wud be able to y\alot more then 250 with that built motor..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pretty much making that part of the radiator useless unless a fan was continuing blowing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really, esp with thermal blankets. There is enough room for a 12" fan in front, even if you still have an A/C condensor. I've done the measurements & actually stuck the fan in there at one point.

I just say f*** it and go with an aftermarket x-member, that way there's zero interference for the DP, and you can use almost any manifold if you add a EG half-rad. Even with A/C in the way, I snuck a t3/t04b on an HF manifold (used a custom adapter), and still had room for the internal WG and 3" DP (pie-cut).

BTW before you put down a lot of cash to 'build' the LS head, seriously consider a stock dohc vtec head. With new OEM valves/springs, you'll be able to turn the motor just as high as the LS head, but make more power & spool faster. Do what you want, but consider the pro's and con's of both heads first.

 

Well, i was actually talking to the guy thats supposed to build the head, and he suggested that the vtec head would not only cost more, but also have a different valve openning rate, which can cause valve overlap on high rpms, which can cause possible valve/head damage... any pointers? and also, can anyone suggest any where i can shop for a decent aftermarket x-member? (BTW if im not supposed to be asking that in here, then ignore it... )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrThicky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, i was actually talking to the guy thats supposed to build the head, and he suggested that the vtec head would not only cost more, but also have a different valve openning rate, which can cause valve overlap on high rpms, which can cause possible valve/head damage... any pointers? and also, can anyone suggest any where i can shop for a decent aftermarket x-member? (BTW if im not supposed to be asking that in here, then ignore it... )</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like a LOTTA BS, and how will a vtec head cost more than all of the work and parts you would use building up the ls head. Whoever told you that sounds like they are full of it, and I know in some cars vtec is turned off by the tuner but even in that case wouldnt that head flow more than the LS head? Either way seems like a no brainer to me..

 

Dont get me wrong here... even if i get a vtec head, im not gonna leave it stock... i will do the same upgrades on the vtec head as i am/willbe doing on the ls head... and the guy building it is gonna be making the same money, vtec or not...
i used to work at a honda dealer for about 6 years actually, and i was always into making them run right, more than tuning em up... now i have my own shop so im just getting myself into some projects for those days im not too busy...
anyways... not too sure about the whole valve rate thing either... bs?? dunno.. never had to work on a honda that was modified like that...
i usually had to worry about how to fix MILs under warrantee and noise complaints such as when customers say they hear a noise going 46 mph and making a left turn, only when its sunny out and there is a NE breeze... that kinda deal....

 

MrThicky... why would you want to build a block and head and only shoot for 250-300whp?...If your going to do that use a stock block and save your self the money. If you want to make more power and still save some money...build the block, get a stock vtec head (throw some spring/retainers in) and you can still make 500+. Is the block going to be sleeved? or stock sleeves?

 

Heres some pics of a B16 we boosted in a CRX.
This one is a big turbo, GT35r, with a 3" downpipe also.
The only fab work here was to make new mounts for the new half size radiator to fit.