jakoh77

I'm building my first turbo kit and I decided to piece one together since its cheaper and I can pick the things I want.

I'm looking to hit the 300whp mark if possible. I will have Eagle rod's and JE 9:1 forged pistons, but the block will NOT be sleeved. Most likely I'm going to have a block guard welded in for added support.

The head is going to be stock for now because of lack of funds, and the head will NOT be ported and polished.

My problem is, I need suggestions on what turbo and injectors should I use.
I don't care how much Psi its pushing as long as it is safe on stock sleeves. Rod's and pistons shouldn't be a problem.

Mod's planning on having for the turbo build:
Eagle rod's
81.5mm JE 9:1 Forged Pistons
Stock Sleeves (Fresh bore and hone)
Tial Wastegate (Size depends on turbo)
Greddy BOV
Blox turbo manifold
3" downpipe and Exhaust
Dyno tuned on Hondata S300
upgraded fuel pump and stuff

I think that's everything you need to know.

The reason I'm having problem deciding is because the LS head isn't exactly the most flowing head out there. that causes some problems when finding a turbo to work with it. and also what injector's with that turbo for 300whp

Budget is somewhat limited

$500-$700 for turbo give or take
$200-$250 for injectors give or take

Thanks for your suggestions!

kyden

run of the mill 50/57 trim will work fine.

i suggest skipping the block guard.

jakoh77

Why skip the block guard?

jakoh77

does anyone have any suggestions on actual turbo's that can get me into that whp range that is reliable?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

50 or 57 trim like said.

550cc injectors

no block guard (research why and youll understand)


I would use the OE pistons and run ARP rod bolts if the engine is in good health.
Spend that piston/rod $$ on a new head and better manifold. those log manifolds dont flow well past 6k and will hurt performance.

You can chip your ECU and run NepTune which is just as good as hondata w/o the price. (if you can find a tuner who tunes it)

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Stick with the pistons and rods, no block guard. the blox cast log will work justfine for 300whp. Cast logs flow just fine for up to 400-500whp. Hell i forget who did it but someone was running 9's on an inlinepro cast log

block guards do absolutly nothing, they will not stop the sleeves from cracking so its a waste of money, just get a good tuner. and already stated a 50 or 57 trim t3/t4e will work just fine for tht power

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

with a port and polish, any of the LS heads will flow fine, if your really concerned grab a b20 block with a p8r LS head with 33mm valves instead and it will flow as well as a vtec head while maintaining non vtec status. i also have a set of non vtec turbo cams im selling brand new in box, shoot me a pm if you want to know more about those, that will certainly help spool that turbo faster.

jakoh77

Down the road I'm going to do head work and have it retuned, but I'm spending enough as it is just putting the turbo build together that I can't afford it right now.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

^^ the only reason i said to keep the bottom end stock is that he has no clue that he will need new bearings, crank checked out and maybe edged and polished and then everything balanced which will be $$$ that hes not expecting to pay.. thats IF he does it right.

Sounds like he hasnt researched enough and if OP continues to half *** it, the engine will


for 300, the OE rods and pistons will be fine (if the engine is healthy) and some ARP's will do the job.. Just my .02


OP: if you cant afford the turbo build, then you cant afford to fix what will go wrong/break soon after you boost it.

Just letting you know now. You will have issues afterwards.. we all have. Adding 2x-3x the power will create a weak link somewhere.. axles, clutch, mounts, etc..

ask anyone of us.. nothing goes smoothly as planned.

jakoh77

I know that the turbo build is expensive, that why I'm doing it right and most people would agree that the key to a reliable turbo build is a strong bottom end and yes I realize that the other stuff need's to be upgraded like the axles and clutch. I will be upgrading both of those, but I didn't list that in the OP bc you don't need to know that for what I was asking. and for 300whp, the mounts aren't going to break, I'm not gonna get that much torque out of a small turbo.

I know people run 300-350whp on stock LS bottom and it ran for years, but I also know that some people get there and throws a rod or something happens within that HP range. Thats why I'm gonna spend the extra $800 or so to get new Rods and Pistons, because its not worth the chance and it doesn't hurt to do it. I'd rather have a strong bottom than a stock one just to be safe. and for the crank being checked and balanced, thats something that'll have to be done so it will be. Its bc of all these little things that I can't afford to do the head work right now. I just wanted to know what turbo would get me to where I wanted to be on stock sleeves and a stock head and I got my answer so it worked out. Thanks everyone!

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

mounts wont break, but that engine will rock back and forth causing stress on the downpipe, turbo and manifold.

but hey, its your ride.. do what u want to do.

jakoh77

you do have a valid point, but its still a daily driver so I'm not gonna be launching it every time I pull out of the driveway. but I will think about upgrading the mounts

omiehomie

if this car is your daily driver you really have no idea what it takes to get a turbo car dialed in to be dialy driver status.

of the 3 things you can only have 2.
1) reliable 2) cheap 3) fast

if you want it reliable and fast its not going to be cheap.

if you want it cheap and fast its not going to be reliable.

if you want it cheap and reliable its not going to be fast.

pick to what tailors to your situation

racebum

pretty much

rough cost is $4000 to do a starter turbo setup with new parts right

BigMike0147

Sounds like you're in the same position as me. I just finished my first build. Forged internals, daily driver, and shooting for 300. The mounts are a good idea. I only put down 230 at the wheels due to a few different factors but I can still spin the tires hard in second gear on acceleration. My solid mounts keep the wheels planted on the ground. Will stock mounts I'd have it bouncing everywhere. Sounds like youre on the right track so stay patient and don't cut corners

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

It will not need knife edging of the crankshaft, thats not something that really anyone does, its just not nessesary. Bearings are 68 bucks and balancing isnt that costly IMO for a healthy motor. Its better to have a healthy stout bottom end and maybe start off with some used turbo parts to get by untill he wants to upgrade or save a little more money and get better stuff first off

civickiller

what year ls?
300whp, can use oem parts
need a clutch, oem wont work, i say cm stage 3, idk what other cheaper clutches will work
no blockguard
still should have a few 100 to spare

jakoh77

Yeah I know its gonna be expensive and I've priced it all out, right now I'm just a shy under $5000 for this basic turbo build. I'll list everything I have for the sake of anyone interested. and when I say everything I "have" I really mean going to get.

EagleRod/Forged Piston $800 (JE turbo 9:1)
Clutch and flywheel set $475 (Fidanza and Exedy)
Hondata S300 installed $550 (May be expensive but its the shop rate)
Full throttle dyno tune $425
Cheap ebay Exhaust $135 (3" catback)
ARP head stud $130
Cosmetic Head gasket $90
Block bore/hone $100 (81.5mm)
Walbro fuel pump $90
Intercooler Piping $100 (2.5")
Intercooler front mount $200 (apexi)
Tial 38mm wastegate $230
Gredy Blow off valve $250
Blox turbo Manifold $260 (lifetime warranty Log style)
RC 550cc Injectors $275
Downpipe $230ish? (brand undecided)
Turbocharger $650 (Garrett T3/T4e 50trim .63 a/r)
Axels $??? (undecided if needed)
Mounts $??? (Undecided on brand and such)
Bearings $70

Thats general prices and I just have that to go on. Final decisions come when I buy everything.
I realize nothing ever works perfectly and I know what I signed into when I knew doing this right is expensive but reliable.

I know other little things will add in like turbo accessories but that can come later.

I have a really good idea of what I want I just gotta have my mind completely made up.

*The only thing that I keep swaying my decision on is if I want to upgrade the pistons or not. I know Eagle Rod's are a must but forged pistons are like $500 and there's no way around it. I won't upgrade again after this. (Most likely lol)

jakoh77

I bought the motor off some guy who got it off some guy who was rear ended. One of those kinda things. If I remember right, it was a 96-98 integer LS running an automatic transmission.

civickiller

use oem headgasket
cheap $100 intercooler, just might have to turn up the boost alittle higher
preload axles when racing, if done correctly you wont break stock axles
i love my innovative mounts, around $400

pistons will break before rods, keep stock rods and you wont have to buy new bearings, but then as ive suggest for only 300whp your stock bottom end should hold up. just dont have a heavy foot so motor last longer

manuelxenon

hi im emmanuel from dominican republic,i was just like you in 2009,i had a fully build gsr ,my turbo is a garrett ar63,really nice,at 3000rpm i was starting to enjoi power of it,now heres what i have in it:

same pistons as you je 9:1comp
eagle rod arp2000
blockguard
arp headbolts
springs,retainers,cam gears,camshaft all skun2 new
type-r throttle
drag turbomanifold
tial wastegate

as you know the fuel of my country is the badest in octane so i run it for 12psi to get 290whp,let me tell you that im really satisfy with the results,because i built it not for drags race ,just to have fun at highways,my tranny is stock LS but i added a type-r lsd so here youhave and idea,hope this could help,also im selling it i just use it for less one year ,i had an acident in the drivers side door,and i sold the car without the complete engine.

racebum

get rid of that blox manifold, i'll sell you my real inline pro for barely more, it's more or less new and ceramic coated. the blox won't fit a tial WG on a vtec head without an adapter and the design is just a kind of sort of rip off of inline pro.

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

You can get some Nippon low compression pistons on eBay. There cast but have bigger ringlandsbthen stock. There have been some builds w them on here I've seen before. They run 200. Normally like 150 but you have to get with the floating pin option to run them with eagle rods so its 200

racebum

normally i don't object to nippon for NA builds but for boost....i would never rebuild with cast {granted i recently had a bad experience with a snail and cast pistons}. they are $200 and you can get the 4032 mahle's for barely over $400, want to say $420-440. that's a **** fk ton more piston and safety for 200 extra dollars

no cast piston in the world will rival this. they are also 30+ grams lighter http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...pak-honda.html

DirtyDA9

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