? safe boost on a stock z6
well i was just wandering i have yet to go boost and was wandering with a chipped p28 and a stock z6 what is a safe boost level for everyday driving and i am talking about driving i work for a moving company and the car does see a lot of highway but its not stop and go constantly you know. i am wanting to see hwats it like boosted.
and on top of that i have a b20z that i will picking up in a a few weeks or so with 80k on her and if i went to boost a b20....??? not sure how that will turn out i know they have thin walls but im not looking to boost a whole lot just yet just a safe reliable amount.
any help would awesome
and on top of that i have a b20z that i will picking up in a a few weeks or so with 80k on her and if i went to boost a b20....??? not sure how that will turn out i know they have thin walls but im not looking to boost a whole lot just yet just a safe reliable amount.
any help would awesome
Safe boost levels on a stock z6 i would say 7psi, on be series motor, ive seen people drive 10psi all day safely ( not boosting every single time they got) also try posting your boosted question on Forced Induction......
Yea I would say around 7-8psi but more importantly is how much horse power can they handle, which is around 220 before the rods take a crap on you.
And b20s arnt the best motor to boost because of the thin cylinder walls.
And b20s arnt the best motor to boost because of the thin cylinder walls.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Radyjr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Safe boost levels on a stock z6 i would say 7psi, on be series motor, ive seen people drive 10psi all day safely </TD></TR></TABLE>
Boost pressure doesn't determine anything. Please get away from this thinking if you're going to offer advice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Panda Eg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea I would say around 7-8psi but more importantly is how much horse power can they handle, which is around 220 before the rods take a crap on you.
And b20s arnt the best motor to boost because of the thin cylinder walls.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is closer to the truth. But again, PSI is not a basis for comparison.
If you're looking to turbo your Z6 and want it to be safe and reliable, plan to stay in the 220-240whp range. Use whatever PSI necessary on the turbo you chose to get there. You're going to want something that's efficient at the pressure necessary to get to your power goal. A good choice for your setup would be a T3 .42/.48 or a T3 Super 60.
As for the B20, they do not have "thinner" sleeves, they have "weaker" sleeves due to the design of how the cylinders merge into one another. They are weaker than any other B series and are only capable of about 350whp safely; whereas, blocks like the LS, GSR, B16 have sleeves that will handle 500-550whp with a good piston/rod combo and proper fuel. Its not "impossible" to make that kind of power with the B20 on stock sleeves, its just a lot more risky.
Boost pressure doesn't determine anything. Please get away from this thinking if you're going to offer advice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Panda Eg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea I would say around 7-8psi but more importantly is how much horse power can they handle, which is around 220 before the rods take a crap on you.
And b20s arnt the best motor to boost because of the thin cylinder walls.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is closer to the truth. But again, PSI is not a basis for comparison.
If you're looking to turbo your Z6 and want it to be safe and reliable, plan to stay in the 220-240whp range. Use whatever PSI necessary on the turbo you chose to get there. You're going to want something that's efficient at the pressure necessary to get to your power goal. A good choice for your setup would be a T3 .42/.48 or a T3 Super 60.
As for the B20, they do not have "thinner" sleeves, they have "weaker" sleeves due to the design of how the cylinders merge into one another. They are weaker than any other B series and are only capable of about 350whp safely; whereas, blocks like the LS, GSR, B16 have sleeves that will handle 500-550whp with a good piston/rod combo and proper fuel. Its not "impossible" to make that kind of power with the B20 on stock sleeves, its just a lot more risky.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DelSolstice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Should safely run 6-7....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does anyone read anything i post?!?!? Jesus H. Christ, read the post above you!!
...some days, i swear people are retarded
Does anyone read anything i post?!?!? Jesus H. Christ, read the post above you!!
...some days, i swear people are retarded
2006 members should know better, in fact, any person with any sort of semblance of intelligence should be able to read what was posted before they post their reply to the OP.
You'd be wise to first do a quick leak-down and compression test to see what the health of your motor is -- if the results aren't optimal -- it's probably not smart to max out what a healthy motor could take -- or turbo at all. Remember, d-series motors are cheap, if the motor you have isn't in good condition, buy another. While, you're at it, throw on a new OEM headgasket with ARP headstuds to ensure that "head-lift" doesn't occur. I sure wish I had done that before I turbo'd.. Now, I have to do it ASAP and have to worry if the head needs resurfacing.
You'd be wise to first do a quick leak-down and compression test to see what the health of your motor is -- if the results aren't optimal -- it's probably not smart to max out what a healthy motor could take -- or turbo at all. Remember, d-series motors are cheap, if the motor you have isn't in good condition, buy another. While, you're at it, throw on a new OEM headgasket with ARP headstuds to ensure that "head-lift" doesn't occur. I sure wish I had done that before I turbo'd.. Now, I have to do it ASAP and have to worry if the head needs resurfacing.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ke98248 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2006 members should know better, in fact, any person with any sort of semblance of intelligence should be able to read what was posted before they post their reply to the OP.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with this and the rest of the post, but with regards to space, i didnt think it necessary to quote the rest.
I dont mean to toot my own horn, but i know a hell of a lot about turbo setups (and other things). I hate giving advice that falls upon deaf ears. Sometimes, you just need to sit back, shut up and f**king listen to people. I hate to sound like an ***, but after posting several informative posts which go unheeded (sp?), it begins to wear on a person...
I agree with this and the rest of the post, but with regards to space, i didnt think it necessary to quote the rest.
I dont mean to toot my own horn, but i know a hell of a lot about turbo setups (and other things). I hate giving advice that falls upon deaf ears. Sometimes, you just need to sit back, shut up and f**king listen to people. I hate to sound like an ***, but after posting several informative posts which go unheeded (sp?), it begins to wear on a person...
I love how people can answer what a safe boost level would be without knowing the size of turbo or supporting mods to the car . . . and for the simple fact of reliablilty isnt judged by boost but horsepower . . .
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