H22 swap in cb7
i bought this h22 and i wanna run high compression in it. i bought the pistons but i don't know if i should by rods too? i rather use that money and by a nice valve train with cam's. my question is if the rods are going to take the beat of high compression and should i change the bolts that hold the rods to the crank?
yes yes my engine was a 10:1 and now im taking it to 11:1 and im even modifying the block so i can get rid of the balance shaft's so it revs faster and weight reduction.
Haha, ok.
Making sure you weren't under the impression the H22 was like the F22 (8:1).
You MAY have better luck in the Prelude or All Motor forums. I haven't had much experience with it so I couldn't tell you whether or not you'd need to upgrade the rods.
Making sure you weren't under the impression the H22 was like the F22 (8:1).
You MAY have better luck in the Prelude or All Motor forums. I haven't had much experience with it so I couldn't tell you whether or not you'd need to upgrade the rods.
If you remove the harmonic balacer the motor may rev quicker but it will greatly effect your motor life.. Its there for a reason.
And its only been proven to make 1-2 hp on a dyno..
You could just save that money for type-s cams or a socket and chipped P28. Which would yeild more dependable and noticeable power gains.
Eric
And its only been proven to make 1-2 hp on a dyno..
You could just save that money for type-s cams or a socket and chipped P28. Which would yeild more dependable and noticeable power gains.
Eric
well i thoght of that at the begining but now its done and it looks good. but my questins was that if i need to upgrade my rods if im upgrading the compression?
if you spend money/ building, replace the bolts if one breaks it will cost you more than to just replace now, recommend ARP they are the strongest i have heard of. what pistons did you buy? h22's have really strong bottom ends I dont see you having a problem, I read awhile ago about a guy putting S2000 pistons in his H22, he took the rods and crank out of a f22 and it all bolted up. the compression was like a 12:1 but thicken up the head gasket and you can drop that. remember to run the right gas....
Trending Topics
thank's for the tip. i boght wiseco 11:1 i wannet to go 12 but if i run that in the engine i had to upgrade to 97octane and that to expensive and hard to get and i still wanna have a street car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alpinestar03 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you remove the harmonic balacer the motor may rev quicker but it will greatly effect your motor life.. Its there for a reason. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think he was talking about removing his harmonic balancer. I believe that he was refereeing to eliminating the Balance shafts. Did you buy the BS elimination kit or just remove the belt?
Also like Hurleyint said. Say good bye to your H's Fiber Reinforced Metal Sleeves (FRM) and $800 - $1000 out of your wallet to get a set of cast sleeves machined in.
Modified by GhostAccord at 12:07 PM 1/31/2008
I don't think he was talking about removing his harmonic balancer. I believe that he was refereeing to eliminating the Balance shafts. Did you buy the BS elimination kit or just remove the belt?
Also like Hurleyint said. Say good bye to your H's Fiber Reinforced Metal Sleeves (FRM) and $800 - $1000 out of your wallet to get a set of cast sleeves machined in.
Modified by GhostAccord at 12:07 PM 1/31/2008
no i didnt by the kit i removed the shafts and i got all the oil plugs plugd so i wodent loose oil presure by not having the shafts and then in the front cover of the block i plugd them with caps where the gears were. and i heard that i dont have to re sleev the block i just have to clean the sleevs well thats what every one is telling me here.
If you did a DIY Balance shaft removal complete with plugs and shaft caps. Share with the rest of us. I spent $125 for my kit. Was your DIY cheaper?
As for the re-sleeve I don't know from personal experience. I'm just going buy what I have read about forged pistons and FRM sleeves not getting along all that well. What would I know. I'm running an F22 that already has iron sleeves. And I'm still cutting them out and slapping a set of cast Darton M.I.D.'s in it. Some might say that is a waste of money. To them I reply piece of mind!
As for the re-sleeve I don't know from personal experience. I'm just going buy what I have read about forged pistons and FRM sleeves not getting along all that well. What would I know. I'm running an F22 that already has iron sleeves. And I'm still cutting them out and slapping a set of cast Darton M.I.D.'s in it. Some might say that is a waste of money. To them I reply piece of mind!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MFZH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard that i dont have to re sleev the block i just have to clean the sleevs well thats what every one is telling me here.</TD></TR></TABLE>
read this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1250273
Search about this subject, you can find quite a few threads.
read this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1250273
Search about this subject, you can find quite a few threads.
You can also use a f series block and you wont have to resleve your FRM sleeved H22 block. You can buy bare f22 blocks around 100 bucks or so. There are a couple f22/h22 hybrid wirte ups and therads in here (accord FAQ, Swaps). I was actually going to do a h22/f23 hybrid but after collecting parts i realized it was taking to long. So i decided to just buy a whole long block and call it a day. Read up in the accord FAQ sticky up top, it sould solve all your questions regarding swaps, accords and other good ****.
You could also buy oem type-s pistions. Which have a 11.0:1 CR. They are cheaper and FRM friendly.
Eric
You could also buy oem type-s pistions. Which have a 11.0:1 CR. They are cheaper and FRM friendly.
Eric
i see what u mean but i did some reserch and the feedback that i got its totaly different some people say that it wount run some people say it will run no problem. so now my decicion is that im going to run forged piston in my stock block and ill see what happenes. now if i wanna put stage 2 cams do i have to change the hole valve train ?
your going to ruin that block with those pistions... Listen to your peers. And SEARCH. ALL of these answers could be found in the prelude threads. Id post this there and see what they say.
You will need to upgrade your springs and retainers.
But DO NOT USE those forged pistons in a stock FRM sleeved block. It just spells catastrophe. You NEED a iron sleveed block.
Eric
You will need to upgrade your springs and retainers.
But DO NOT USE those forged pistons in a stock FRM sleeved block. It just spells catastrophe. You NEED a iron sleveed block.
Eric
yes well i did some reserch and ill talked to some mechanics and they told me is better to re sleeve and if it dont re sleeve is like a 50% chance that it goes welll like it can go bad... so now im thinking if i can gt the money ill probably re sleeve them but if not ill see....
It is a preference thing. But if you are going to build the engine any way. It would be cheaper to start out with a f series motor. If you use the F series bottom end you won't have to spend the money on sleeveing it like you would on the H motor.
There is alot of good information on the "frankenstien" engines. In the prelude sec FAQ.
I was building a nice engine before I decided to buy my new car.
I was building f23 bottom end with rsx-R pistons and the h22 head.
Just some incite
There is alot of good information on the "frankenstien" engines. In the prelude sec FAQ.
I was building a nice engine before I decided to buy my new car.
I was building f23 bottom end with rsx-R pistons and the h22 head.
Just some incite
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





