My tranny from my '00 ITR is in bad shape. When backing, if I depress the clutch to disengage, the car comes to a violent stop. I believe the reverse bearing is shot from what I've been able to find. Also I am unable to 3-2 shift which probably is a synchro issue. So, having said this, is this a problem anyone has experienced? I live in FL and assume I will need to have it rebuilt, and am looking for a reputable shop to do the work (not opposed to shipping it out), or, I am not opposed to doing the work myself if I know really what the problems are. All input is welcomed. Thanks for reading!

 

Yikes, that sounds like a nasty problem. Can you get into 3rd gear at all, or is it just from shifting quickly from 2nd gear?

 

There is no reverse bearing.

 

sounds like u may need a new clutch

 

it will shift through all gears without issue, just wont 3-2 shift, also pops out of 2nd when minimal or no load is on it (i.e. coasting in gear)

there is no reverse bearing, sorry, I was referencing the reverse idler gear...

so having said these things... any reputable shops in the SE US?

 

I do trannys if you want to ship it to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do trannys</TD></TR></TABLE>

I bet you do.

:gross:

 

any idea on how much a new one would cost? maybe not new but used. i wuld say replcae he reverse gear or somthin but it doesnt sound like thats it, how many miles on he tranny?

 

Used ITR trannys go for about $1,200+.

No need to replace reverse, ever.

 

so Aquafina... you seem to be pretty knowledgable on trannys.. any idea what the problem could be inside mine based on the symptoms?

 

Can you get the car/trans to Orlando?

Or... I'll be up in Jax next week sometime most likely for work. I can pick it up and bring it back to the shop.

 

counter shaft bearing walked out until stopped by the bridge bracket (thats what I call it)
shift fork could be damaged
something in the synchro assembly is worn or damaged (gear, synchro, sleeve, etc)

 

Dave, shoot me an email if you will so we can further discuss this option, I'm still a newbie member and cant PM... jonathans11@hotmail.com

Thanks

 

Sent.

 

If you guys find out what caused this issue, I'd really like to know, I'm experiencing a similar issue and we weren't able to diagnose it when it was pulled apart...though the lack of experience inside the tranny at the time might have caused that.

 

Austin, if you took any pics of the trans once the case was split, shoot them to me in an email.

whoopeedooracing@aol.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Austin, if you took any pics of the trans once the case was split, shoot them to me in an email.

whoopeedooracing@aol.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

To answer this a month late, nope, no pictures...and I'm wondering if this person had their transmission taken apart and the issue found/fixed.

 

bump for Austin

 

I'm wondering what the problem actually is.

Hopefully he chimes in with an update.

 

I have found that unless you know someone willing to do the work at a discount it is about a similar cost to purchase a new transmission and put it in yourself. Or do the work yourself and save a bundle.

 

Last October, my 2-3-4 shifts became very notchy, and not effortless like before. Eventually, 2nd gear began to pop out during light throttle cornering (simply city driving). One day when backing out of my driveway, the shifter would not come out of reverse.

When I pulled the tranny apart the input shaft bearing on the bellhousing side was completely shot, and thus caused the destruction of most of the input shaft components. I had to replace 3rd and 4th gear, the synchronizer assembly for 3-4, as well as most of the needle bearings. I also replaced every ball and roller bearing in the transaxle, as well as upgraded the differential bearings to ball from the OG tapered units. Total rebuild was well over $900, and I got free components from some kind individuals to help me out. I could have spent nearly $1500 on the rebuild if it wasn't for them.

I would suggest opening up the case and inspecting everything. If it looks really bad, it is almost worth purchasing a new transaxle from Honda, considering they are right around $1900 if memory serves correct. You can offset the cost by selling your LSD and some small components. Basically, if your repair bill is more than $1300, you might as well buy new.