I originally wrote this up on the 92lude forums. Enjoy

If your having idle problems and dont want to shell out the cash for a new IACV this right up should help you. All Hondas have a Idle Air Control System that regulates the engines idle to stay around the normal operating temperature. IACVs are known for causing crazy idle problems and drivability problems after they go bad. This How to will tell you how to delete your IACV, Plug up the holes in your intake manifold, and loop the coolant lines back to the engine.

I am not responsible for you messing up your intake manifold, but if you have any questions or concerns you can email me at mikedamobster@hotmail.com

Needed Materials- Antifreeze, JB Weld or simular Steel Epoxy(To plug the holes in the intake manifold)

Edit: Also it helps to remove the top half of your intake manifold when your doing this.

1- First your going to have to find the IACVs on the intake manifold. The main one is on the front of the manifold with a coolant line running to it and back to the cooling system.
2- Start by Disconeccting the wire harness running to the side of the IACV. This is what the ECU uses to help determine idle as well. Your car will not drive with this disconnected. In order to fix this you have to bridge the connection. Either use a paper clip or splice the 2 wires on this harness together to allow for the deletion of the IACV.
3- Remove the IACV. You will notice 2 large holes on the side of the manifold after removal. I used some JB weld and filled the holes.
4- Disconnect the coolant lines from the IACV and and loop the line back to the system or you can get a connector from your local auto parts store and bridge the coolant connection.
5- Now for the other IACV its much simpler. This one is located underneath the throttle body on H22/h23 engine. Just Remove it, plug the holes, and loop the coolant lines back.
6- Check for vacume leaks and double check every thing is connected right. Top off your coolant as you will loose some looping your lines back around.
Start up your car and let it reach operating temperature. Then adjust your idle to around 900rpms or whats comfortable for you/your wheather.

Then enjoy no more idle problems ever again.

Pros-
-Lower Engine Temperatures, Keeps hot coolant from heating up your intake air and manifold.
-Stable Idle- My car idle at 850rpms all the time.
-More Horse Power from Cooler intake manifold.

Cons-
-In cold wheather you have to hold it at 1500-2000 rpms for 2-3 minets to get your engine to warm up.

Pictures Coming Soon, if you need an idea of where stuff is on the manifold you can see it on my car before I did the IACV deletion at:

http://viewmorepics.myspace.co...44531

 

Pretty ghetto there...and the 'IACV' under the throttle body is not an IACV, it's a Fast Idle Thermo Valve. It's very different.

 

I use JB Weld for many applications, but I wouldn't trust it to fill the large holes in the IM. If it failed for whatever reason, just imagine the pieces of JB Weld sucked into the combustion chamber...

 

Isnt there IAVC block off plates available?

 

u can make a FITV blockoff / IACV blockoff with a soda can.. it works.. i've done it.

 

dagle's right. I would never jb weld an open hole like that.

This is a horrible idea for a DD if anyone is wondering, so don't do it.

 

please delete this garbage post.

 

4000 miles later and every thing is just fine, you just have to know how to use the Jb weld correctly. Also not having radiator fluid run through your intake manifold cools your intake air temps more then you think.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikato Soul &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4000 miles later and every thing is just fine, you just have to know how to use the Jb weld correctly. Also not having radiator fluid run through your intake manifold cools your intake air temps more then you think.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where's your experimental data?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikato Soul &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Also not having radiator fluid run through your intake manifold cools your intake air temps more then you think.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So just take the coolant lines off of the IACV...you don't need those.

 

Haha this is why they call us hater-tech. Ya is there any like proof of more hp i.e dyno sheets before and after?

 

yea dude, thats pretty gettho-rigged. why dont you just buy a small piece of aluminum, drill three holes and use a carefully cut manila folder as a gasket, TAAADAAA a simple and reliable block off plate that cost less then $10 that is still reversible if you want to re-install the FITV. heres a pic from under my throttle body.

 

i made a thread about this days ago.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h23prelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea dude, thats pretty gettho-rigged. why dont you just buy a small piece of aluminum, drill three holes and use a carefully cut manila folder as a gasket, TAAADAAA a simple and reliable block off plate that cost less then $10 that is still reversible if you want to re-install the FITV. heres a pic from under my throttle body.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats a good idea, I already have a block off plate for my egr so I know what you mean. But ive worked with JB weld before and it was actually pretty strait forward simply plugging the holes. I worried a little about the strenght of the JB weld at first, but at 150,000 miles, im getting ready for a rebuild any way. I already have an extra H23 Head that I going to get ported/polished and port matched to an OBX intake manifold. Im building for a 8-10psi daily driver on a unsleeved bottom end using a f22 block with stock iron sleeves.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Where's your experimental data?</TD></TR></TABLE>

As of right now, just a good old butt dyno. Im waiting to swap my head on before I spend a paycheck on a couple dyno runs to tune it.